06 Fusion 600 HO rejetting

[captddh]

I could use a little help,...I've never rejetted a carb,...eveyone says its easy. I got the airbox out after some prying and tugging. Well,...doesn't look like there is much room under the carb,...should I take them out of the rubber boots? Anything else to take loose?
Anything else to know?

I probably just should be braver but don't want to mess things up.

Thanks for your help!

 

[zimmbob]

You can just take catch hose off of the bottom of the bowl, and then get up there with a socket to remove the jet. Otherwise, just take the carb off the boot, turn it upside down (going to spill gas...), and then take the catch tube off, and you can see the jet up in the bowl. I think it's a 10mm socket... might be 8mm. When you replace it, don't over-tighten.... they are just brass...

 

[zimmbob]

Oh, and putting the airbox back on is going to be a b1tch. Best to just put the SLP air horn on right away, and gut the airbox. Then you can reach down into it and get the boots back on properly. Otherwise, it is VERY hard to get on right again.

 

[Skylar]

Yep, pull the carbs out of the boots, the easiest way to change the jets is to get the carbs up out of there completly. To do this you will need to disconnect the oil lines that go to the carbs, and unplug the TPS on the side of the mag side carb. Now you can brings the carbs up and out of there. 17mm wrench on the bottom of the carbs, and a 6mm to get the jets out. I have been running 400 mains in mine since day one, good to at least -15. I did install the SLP air horn and had to go back up on my mains to 420. I am also going to try 410's. I also had to drop the clip to the third position from the top on the needle.

As far as putting the air box back in, put some grease on the back side and bottom of the air box, this will help it slide down to where it is suppose to go.

 

[600hoic]

Skyler, did you remove the inner air baffels from the airbox? And if you remove the oil lines from the carb do you need to bleed the oil system then?

 

[captddh]

Thanks folks! I'm doing the rejetting for airhorn and added air intake space mods from SLP. I wanted to get to 400 and decided to start with 420s because SLP suggests going 2 richer with the mods so its helpful to get some reinforcing info from Skylar. Hopefully, this will help my sled a bit,...my son's sled is the exact same model and is always faster no matter who drives it,...I'm looking to surprise him this year! I'll reply again with the results.

 

[getsome]

Also lookin for results. Let us know what works out for ya.
I am currently running
400 main
45 pilot
#2 clip
1.5 turn air screw

NO SLP air updates yet !

 

[captddh]

SLP air intake

Thanks for all the help,...Skylar's info was dead on (as usual). Took the top end bog away,...crisp all the way thru the throttle now,...really goes now. May have decreased the mileage though by @ 1 mpg.

 

[getsome]

So, what's the specs. on the final results. I still need to fine tune.
Please give me a run down. Airbox,main,pilot,needle,etc.... Thanks

 

[jim_golding]

In my Fusion 600 I changed my jets to the following with the standard air box: 400 main, .9 air pilot jet, 55 pilot jet, 1 turn out on the air screw, main needle in original position. It resolved all the bogging down low and is overall more responsive. Running last weekend with regular gas, I cracked the speed up to 80plus and the DET light came on for a second. I checked the plugs and one was cardboard brown the other was slightly white but still safe. I think my air box was not properly seated on the carbs. I will check again with preimum fuel.

 

[Skylar]

OK, with the SLP air horn kit, and yes the air box is gutted, the sled was loading up just off idle, not good when you want to rip up a tree lined hill.

I started with my set up that has been in there for 3 years with the air box stock. 400 mains, needle in position 2, 45 pilots, stock pilot air jet .6, and fuel screw 1.5 turns out. My first ride this year with the SLP kit, top end and midrange were scary lean. Temps were around 0. Moved the needle to position 3, then cured the midrange. The next ride temps were near 30, I also changed the mains to 420. Sled was running a bit rich on the top end, and in the midrange. Next trip was in the U.P. temps were from the low teens to the mid 20's. Still a little rich on the top end, and the midrange, like I said earlier, sled was loading up pretty bad just off idle. Got home from that trip, and turned the fuel screws in a 1/4 turn to 1.25 out. Installed 40 pilots, 410 mains, I was going to put .9 pilot air jets in, but was having a hard time getting the old ones out, so I left them in there for now. Needle still in number 3. As I was pulling the carbs out of the boots, I realized how bad the boots were delaminating. So I ordered new ones. Took the sled out last Thursday afternoon, temps were mid teens I think. Still might be a tad rich in the midrange, top end plug reading looked good, off idle loading up is just about gone. May change the needle back to number 2 and see how it looks. I don't run my stuff on the edge, so a little rich is ok for me.

So, current settings are as follows:
410 mains
40 pilots
needle in position 3
.6 pilot air jet

 

[coldsmokejr]

I've got the SLP air box mod done, and I run 400 mains, 40 pilots, clip in #2 slot. Its a 600 HO, and it rips a#$!! I have never moved the e-clip on the needles, as this is equal to about 5 jet sizes, and can get you in trouble fast.

 

[captddh]

The SLP instructions said that the new airbox intakes (with an additional 3" intake in the dash) were equivalent to 2 jet sizes. So I left the 420s in to get to the stock box equivalnet of 400. I moved the clip up one.

It runs great at all throttle settings but its also been cold. I was surprised that I lost about 1 mpg but I'm riding faster than it ever went before. Maybe I should have the clip moved back to stock if that makes it "richer". I want to be safe to -15 to -20 so may leave the jetting alone.

 

[mnman309]

Just as an FYI I did all of this to my 06 Fusion 600 Ho for stock setup
400 mains I ran 410s when it went below zero-- didnt like the piston wash as it was to lean
45 pilots
stock air
SLP Airbox mod

TAKE OUT YOUR FACTORY WEIGHTS!! either get them balanced or replace with SLP MTX 65's as the stock Polaris ones are ALL different weights- Quality control would be NICE!!!

My best setup came from the MTX 65's with 1gram weight at the end, epi maroon primary spring and the above setup

Then when I went to the SLP Pipe and Can I went to
430 Mains
45 pilots
Stock Air Pilots
MTX 65's 2 grams at the tip
SLP Black/Pink spring\
SLP Airbox mod and added a couple SLP 2" Flow rites installed in the left side of the dash
1 platic shim in the Secondary cup--reduces friction- Stock spring
1.25 turns on the fuel screw
--I put in and then took back out the V-force reeds as they gave NO gain in performance or fuel.
Check your chain and tighten and then back off 1/4 turn.
Track tension-- loose- about 1.25 to 1.5 slack

Setup gave me consistent 103-105 in loose snow- GPS verified speed and not dream meter- but the corner to corner acceleration was unbelievable
Stock setup gave me 101-102- ok corner to corner

And if you buy 87 octane with this sled for any reason--- watch how long you keep it wide open! Because of pre-iginition/knock issues, you should at a min run 89 or premium at all times to avoid burndown. That little light only gives you a little time before burndown occurs.

And like Skylar noted-- the Boots delaminate even after you get them replaced under warranty.


Always check your secondary belt deflection and keep it within factory specs.

Sorry for the long response-- RIDE SAFE!! and ALWAYS SNOW DANCE!!!

 

[captddh]

MNman309,...thanks for the detailed response. With 410s,...how far below zero would you be comfortable? I want to be safe at -15. So I/m trying to decide between 420s and 410s.

Also,...where do you have your needle? I moved mine up1 position from stock (2 to 3?)
I'm thinking about going back.

Thanks !

 

[jim_golding]

Well I figured out why one plug was alittle white and the other was cardboard brown. I took off the air box today and found one of the rubber seals between the carb and air box had not seal right- therefore a lot air was bypassing the air box causing the lean condition in the one cylinder. While I was in there I looked at the needle clip position. I lowered it from the very top position to one lower - raising needle up one position. I tried it and it ran very very rich- no throttle response over the entire RPM range. I changed it back and it ran great. So how can one ensure the carbs are properly sealed to the airbox without doing the SLP mod to the air box? The airbox is a pain to get in without the rubber seal coming out or not sealing properly. I cannot not see whether the recoil side carb is sealed properly. Any ideas??

 

[600hoic]

lightly grease the airbox carb boots. It helps slide the airbox down into position and also for the boots to slip onto the carbs.

As far as seeing if the airbox is on the carbs properly, you can see if they are. You just need to find the right angles and use a good LED flashlight. For the mag side, try looking just over the top of the exhaust can and thru the frame riser where the pull start rope goes thru the guide. You will be able to see about 2/3's of the boot. You can also use a telescoping mirror and a flashlight to get a better look down under the boots.

Also, once you have the airbox on, and before you strap the top of it down, try wiggling the airbox a little. With a little practice you will be able to feel if the airbox boots are properly over the carbs.

 

[jim_golding]

I will try the grease idea and the mirror. I have tried looking on the recoil side but my issue before was the bottom of the air box boot did not slide on the carb right. HOwever I do remember the it just did not feel right, but I did not pull it back off until recently when I noticed the boot had pushed into the air box. I did try "reshaping" the back of the air box with a heat gun to gain alittle more space which also helped.

 

[600hoic]

Lightly grease the inner, lip, and outer surface. Especially on the bottom lip and underside of the boots. My dealer told me this and it helps from the boots coming off or pushing inside the airbox.

 

[captddh]

06 Fusion Rejetting update for SLP mods

After putting in the SLP airhorn and air vent,...I put in 420 jets and richened the needle one position. That was good when cold but too rich lately. Barely making 10 mpg which really limits my range.

I returned the needle to stock and put in 410 jets. The sled really ran well. I checked the plugs Sat morning at @ 5F. Recoil side card board brown,...clutch side was tan. With my limited experience,...I would be concerned if it was any colder. I also had some sputters on occasion when first throttling back up after a stop sign (should the pilot or air screw be changed?)

SLP has 0.20 shims for a couple of bucks which I think I'll use to split the difference on the needles so I can quit fooling around with the carbs.

I'm also thinking about making a piece of cardboard or plastic to put into one stock air intake to negate the affect of the added air vent as another hedge when it gets cold.

Next sled is not going to have carbs!