1991 chevy 4X4 C V joint

bobsledder

New member
I have a old beater truck and the front right c v boot is shot and when I turn it makes bad noises. Would I need special tools to make the repairs my self? My last beater truck was an 1983 with u joints and I changed one of them so I have some shop experience. Any advice is welcome.
Thanks
Bob
 

yooper

Member
Bob,
You will need a 36 mm socket to remove the nut on the shaft that comes through the hub. You will also need a pair of snap ring pliers to spread the retaining clip that holds the c/v joint to the axle. It is a pretty easy job that you should be able to do. The retaining ring that goes around the c/v joint and holds the rubber boot to the joint is hammered on just be careful not to hit the rubber boot when you are installing the new one (you could cut the new boot)
Hope this helps,
Dan
 

rp7x

Well-known member
toast

replace the whole axel the parts stores give them away cheep and easer than just the boot on a crappy joint
 

yooper

Member
rp7x has a valid point it will be allot easier to replace the entire assembly compare prices and then decide.
The tech in me likes fixing things still; good luck.
 

arcticman

Member
Good advice from Yooper and Rxp. Did this several times on my 94 was able to buy axle with replacement warranty cheap worth the extra money I believe this was through Advance Auto Parts.

Good luck, really not that hard. How many miles on your 91 i had 310,000 on 94 when I totaled trying to push a stop Tandem through a stoplight.
 

anonomoose

New member
Having done this in dah woods, 50 miles from any repair place....it is not that bad a job..with the right tools.

The noise you hear is the nuckles about to go heywire. (when that happens it can lock the front axle up...in drive or out...sit it is a stopper and better get to this before it happens) I suggest you get a new pair since if the one is about to go, so is the other and while you are there, you will know how to do it faster. Or you can be like me, do one first and within 6 months do it again.

The old boots were too hard...and they did NOT clamp down well to the axle shaft. As you run the machine the boot wears by sliding up and down the axle shaft and eventually allows sand and water into the boot where it can't escape and this is why when one is going the other isn't far behind.

NOTE: when you are done with the NEW axle install, put a bead of silicone right around the top of the boot at the axle, and this will help insure that no more contamination of the boot at the axle. Since I have done this, it has worked well, but the boot makers say they use a softer rubber that snugs better. I still use the silicone to seal it up tight.
 

bobsledder

New member
I forgot, Arcticman it has 147,000 miles. I am puting the tow hitch from our old beater on the front so we can tow it around to different farms. My brother and I farm in a 18 radius of home and so we utilize this old truck to facilitate moving machinery. If the 83 could talk it would tell of wild rides behind a grain cart or semi!
 

smokin440

New member
Replace the entire axle, much easier. 36MM socket, cant remember if they are 15MM or 18MM on the axle plate. been a while since I replaced one. Dont be shy about hitting the splined part out of the hub with a hammer and punch, they can be stubborn at times. Just make sure you have the inner un-bolted and down when you do it. ANTI SEIZE THE NEW SPLINED SHAFT!!!!!! lol
Make sure your TQ the hub/axle nut or youll be replacing a bearing not too far from now.
 

bobsledder

New member
need more help

I got the axies in OK thanks for the info however the sway bar re assembly is a bear. The old bolts were worn and cordoded so I am replacing them getting it all to line up and starting the nuts on the bottom is a bit@#. can you bring the bolts up from the bottom?
Bob
 

yooper

Member
Bob, Are you talking about the long sway bar link bolts that hold the 4 rubber bushings per side?
If so yes they can be installed with the nut on the top.
Dan
 
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