1992 polaris 650

jeffrey40

New member
Having electrical problem. The head light, tail light hand warmers and tach all flicker and loose power or go dim for sometimes a short while and sometimes for a long time. Almost like a bad ground but I'm unsure I thought snowmobiles wiring worked a little different than say a car. Can anyone give me a clue where to start looking?
 
Try unplugging the modular wiring block (located near the flywheel housing, backside of crankcase) & look at the terminals inside; they may be corroded. If they look good, plug it back together (push hard) & ride it; you might get lucky. If not, start following wires & looking for sharp edges where the wires may have worn thru their insulation. The yellow wire is hot, the brown wire is ground. The yellow wire is what you should concentrate on. If it touches the chassis, it will short out your lighting coil & you get the symptoms you describe. A tougher problem to find is if the wires are bouncing around & the conductor has broken inside the insulation. Wires should be zip-tied so they don't bounce If you don't find anything, your voltage regulator may be bad. Good luck.
 

jeffrey40

New member
I've taken all the connections appart and cleaned them with sand paper and taken the nuts off the voltage regulator and ignition box grounds and cleaned them with sand paper. It doesn't seem to flicker now it just goes on and off, not as much diming just on or off. Very frustrating!
 

bouncer

Member
I've taken all the connections appart and cleaned them with sand paper and taken the nuts off the voltage regulator and ignition box grounds and cleaned them with sand paper. It doesn't seem to flicker now it just goes on and off, not as much diming just on or off. Very frustrating!

Check the ground wiring. Engines are rubber mounted. The ground system runs thru the wiring loom. Run an alternate ground wire from the engine to the body. Best to download a wiring schematic for your sled thru the internet to trace the ground wiring system and others.

Could also just be a bad voltage regulator. Good luck
 

bouncer

Member
One more thing, When cleaning the plug in connectors, use hydrochloric acid. This can be found at any marine dealer sold as a boat bottom cleaner.
Brush it on the connections. It will remove any and all corrosion you might have. Then rinse with water.
 

matman

New member
Maybe you mean muriatic acid? This is nasty stuff if you use straight, make sure you have plenty of air ventilation. Also never ever mix acids together for cleaning.
 

bouncer

Member
Maybe you mean muriatic acid? This is nasty stuff if you use straight, make sure you have plenty of air ventilation. Also never ever mix acids together for cleaning.

Nope......I do mean hydrochloric acid. NEVER use muriatic acid!!!! It destroys most metal it comes in contact with. A watered down version of hydrochloric acid would be your common toilet bowl cleaner.
You can take a corroded green nasty trailer light plug connector, dip it it pure hydrochloric acid and it will come out like brand new.
 
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bouncer

Member
My college chemistry classes may have been 50 years ago, but unless someone has invented "new chemistry", Muriatic Acid = Hydrochloric acid = HCl.

See:
1. Wikipedia: Hydrochloric acid.
2. What is Muriatic Acid?
3. Jamestown Distributors, Wholesale Marine and Building Supplies: Muriatic Acid.

I'd be most fascinated to hear anyone refute this.



Muriatic acid is yellow. It will turn any corroded electrical connection you try to clean with it black and react like crazy to brass or aluminum. Then it needs to be wire brushed because of a crust that's left on the metal after being basically burnt.

This boat bottom cleaner (name on the bottle) is pink. The ingredients on the label say 100% Hydrochloric acid. When I use this on a corroded nasty green electrical connector or a fuzzy green brass carburetor jet it comes back to like new condition without trying to eat the metal. Then a simple flush with water and air hose dry.

I am no chemist. I only know what works. From the links you left you are right.
I would sure like to know the answer and will never dispute a difference between the two again, thank you.
 

jeffrey40

New member
Finally

Well I finally got to the bottom of the problem. It was the stater/mag. I used a test light when it was acting up, which it would not do all the time so that made it that much harder to find, when everything would dim I unplugged the stater and tested the current coming out of it and it was next to nothing so I took it apart and one of the lighting coils was all blackened in the middle of the winding. Put a new one in and everything works great. Electrical can be frustrating sometimes, I'm just glad to have the mystery solved. Thanks for all the input
 
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