2000 Polaris 500 Touring Sway Bar?

[steve2k5]

Hi, I just bought a couple of these and when I was out on some less than optimal trails, I had a real hard time riding and keeping up with my friends - I thought the carbides were shot...

Then, last weekend I noticed a "bar" hanging out of the front end of one of the sleds - on closer inspection, I realized the one end of the sway bar came out of its' mounting bracket. I took a look at the other sled and the sway bar was completely removed.

So a couple questions - could the sway bar be the cause of the crappy ride or was it just the really poor trail conditions?

Can I go the season without it if I just take it easy?

On the Polaris parts page for my sled (FRONT SUSPENSION - S00SD4BS ) it shows a bushing and rivet - I don't see how the rivet comes into play here???

Thanks!

 

[shawnl]

NO you need to fix this before you ride again. Your tie rods will be under engine connected to the handle bars. Then you have the tie rods for front suspension all rods have a swivel head connection with bolt or other connection. You will need to make sure your ski are in line also

 

[redrat75]

The rivets are used to hold the sway bar mount into the bulk head if I remember right there are three rivets holding each side in. Also if one side of the sway bar is not into the trailing arm you are going to need a new slide block for it. With out the sway bars there will be more frount end role so they will improve the ride. You can ride your sled with out the sway bar but your cornering will be affected.

 

[tyeeman]

My what a timely topic. I have a 2000, 500 Touring as well and just did some adjustments and stuff that turned this sled into very, very nice handling machine. Before the sled wandered all over the place, darted, and was sloppy in the corners, , at best. Now, it's bullet straight riding one handed at 40 or 80 mph. I can corner like it's on rails, and it does not get stuck in previouse ski ruts.
I'll second redrat75, the rivets are bropably from the plastic bracket that goes into the bulk head, make sure all those rivets are present and tight, there are 3 per side. Also as redrat said make sure the sway bar is in the trailing arm on both sides other wise you will have excessive body roll when cornering.
Now, here's the adjustments I did that really woke up this sled: First and foremost, take those worthless Polaris wear bars off and promptly throw them away. Order a pair of Bergstrom "Good N Ugly" bars with 6" carbides AND 3/8" ski savers. The rest of this is assuming you have the Xtra 12 suspension.
The shocks on your skis - Raise the front of the sled off the ground and increase your spring preload so there is 8 threads showing, count threads from the bottom of the aluminum looking adjuster. You can go more than 8 threads but the ride might get a little harsh. Then, on the very bottom of the shocks there is a screw that ajusts how much dampening the shock will do. Back that screw out all the way (it might be already) then turn it in about 5/8 of a turn. Make sure both ski shocks are adjusted the same.
Back in the skid frame - Your front shock on the skid, increase your spring preload, same way you did the ski shocks, adjust spring until there is 8 threads showing, counted from the bottom of the aluminum threaded thing. Locate the dampening adjustment screw on the bottom of the shock, turn it all the way out (it may be already) and then turn it in 3/4 of a turn.
The rear skid spring/shock - the spring preload is not adjustable however it does have a dampening adjustment screw. Make sure that screw is turned all the way out.
Make sure your ski alignment is spot on, grease all the zerks in the skid frame and you'll be a happy camper.

Oh, and if you just bought these, loosen up the track and give each idler wheel a spin. You'll probably find a few that need the bearings replaced.

You'll probably want to change the oil in the chain case too, it would seem that very few people do it and the oil gets really gnarly if it's not changed.

Good Luck!

 

[bigred_tr]

Taken it Easy ?

Get the sled fixed according to Manufacture spec's....Come on dude..."if I take it easy" Ever ride behind a group "taken it easy? " ... be nice and wait for them to let you pass ! Anyways the bar is needed and I think the wisdom of Tyeeman should guide you there...He says it all ! Good Job Tyeeman !
Lot's of things have to do with " your ride"...500 touring ? 2up? Keep up with my friends? All types of rider's..been with some that are just tooooo fast and I think reckless..my bud's and I ride fast but our front Man is the best and we all have radio's ! I ride a 500XC 1999 and keep up just fine on the trails with the big dogs...lakes they go faster but oh well..
I run with dual carbides and love them ! No darting at all ! Don't know if you have a Fox shock or not but if it is...could need rebuilt. But i'd go with what Tyeeman spoke of..he been thru it sounds like .. Keep ask'n questions and it's fun learn'n.. Good luck !

BR

 

[steve2k5]

Thanks all - I don't do a lot of trail riding, was on once this season - but with the snow situation here in northern mi, its' mostly lake riding with my kids....

The sled is a 2-up - 500 touring...

The bigger issue is that I am unemployed and what ever spare bucks I have, I put towards being with my kids (divorced and they are 200 miles away...) - my biggest concern is more of if I would do further damage?

The fix seems easy enough based on the drawings - I just can't picture how the rivets come into play though...

Also, how do I loosen the track to check the bogey wheels?

Thanks!

 

[redrat75]

The total price for parts fixing the sway bar with out labor is not to bad. If you replace both swaybar slides, in the trailing arms, both bushing that are mounted in the bulkhead that is mounted with three pop rivets on each side will run app. $35 from a poo dealer. If that is to expensive you can run with out the swaybar but make sure you remove it. Will it cause damage with it removed no. If you leave it as is it could cause damage because the swaybar will be moving around and could jam you stearing so I would not ride the sled until you do one of the two options. If it were me I would spend the $35 and fix it because it would take more time to remove the bar from the sled than replacing the parts but that is your choice.

 

[xcr440]

Agreed on pretty much everything said above. Those pieces are not expensive, yet they are imparative (sp?) to the handling. The rivets can sometimes be a little tricky to get in, but you'll see how they need to be.

I also have a 99 XC 500, and do just fine if I don't have to blaze across a field or lake above 80, which really, none of us have to do. I would have no issues riding or keeping up with anyone through twisty trails.

BTW, where you live? Where do your kids live? I also have a 240 mile distance between myself and my kids, make the trip every other weekend no matter what. My son is begging me to bring the sleds next weekend (Stevens Point to Twin Cities, not cheap in the Suburban) but I don't know how this weekends "rain" winter storm will play out there.

 

[steve2k5]

I have 2 that I have to do, but for less than a hundred total, I'll probably do it just for the piece of mind. The guy I bought it from had to have known the 1 was removed - the sway bar is _gone_... To do this, should I remove the bottom cover? Looks like a piece of sheet metal... Any tips on loosening the track to check the bogey wheels? I'm not real mechanically inclined, but I'm a quick learner with help

I live in Houghton Lake, MI and drive down to the romeo area every other weekend - she is a miserable human being and makes everything possible as difficult as possible - but I love my kids and will deal with her "stuff"... I really need to start a blog to show guys how misrable a divorce can be and people you once loved are capable of - but thats a different thread I suupose...

 

[bigred_tr]

Check'n the Bogey's

Well 1st...You said you love your Kids. This will make it safer with it fixed. We all are kinda tight now but we all work it out if you put your mind too it!...You see your kids when you can, sounds good to me. I know lots other's that don't ! Keep going,Keep your head up...things always seem to work out if you keep picking yourself up. Lot's just sit and whine about things.......anyways to losen your track there are 3 Bogey wheel's that guide your track around at the back of your sled. There is a shaft that runs thru them..1 bolt on each side..loosen each side, don't take off.Then on each side of the sled ( the track runs around a unit called the "rack" ) On the bottom of the rack is a rail that has your sliders ( plastic that the track runs along ) the rack h/w attach too. At the end is a bolt that goes into a block. loosen the lock nut there, maybe mark where the adjustment is there now on the bolt and start to loosen that long bolt...have to do this on both sildes. This will loosen your track. Do in reverse to tighten or adjust your track... When you Get close to where your you marked it earlier. If you look down the track holes from the rear, you should see the sliders and the rail, it should be in the middle of the track clips and nipples. Tension for your track is about to 1" to 1 1/2" of travel when you push down on it with your fingers, under the middle of the rail area from the side of the sled...Sometimes it's just a feel thing..not to tight..not to loose. Tighten the 2 bolts, 1 bolt on either side of Bogey wheels on right and left side of sled that you loosened 1st.. When you think you have it close.. Take Rear end safely OFF the ground..Hanging from garage truss or something...a stand that WON'T tip over and start it up and make the track move some.. rap it a cple of times and put on the brakes a few times then stop it and look thru the holes again and see how the rails are riding. Repeat as nessary until they ride in the middle of the clips. You want to try and have both sides ( the adjuster bolt ) about the same length so that the track rides evenly over the wheels. Go and look on line for you sled..go to the parts page and check it out some. You will see some off the stuff i'm talk'n about. Use some of you common sense on when you are making your adjustments..Think what it is really doing when you move you bolts. To much tension on the right will push the track to the left and vice-a-versa. You want to be even and the right tension at the sametime.

Hope all goes well...ask anymore I will try to help ! But I certainly don't know it all. If I forgot anything please anyone can add to this. As for 2 ups...as the name Touring says It's for the just getting you here to there. Not to much speed'n to keep up with friends. Good for play'n with the kids and all forsure !

BR

 

[xcr440]

I live in Houghton Lake, MI and drive down to the romeo area every other weekend - she is a miserable human being and makes everything possible as difficult as possible - but I love my kids and will deal with her "stuff"... I really need to start a blog to show guys how misrable a divorce can be and people you once loved are capable of - but thats a different thread I suupose...

Boy isn't that the truth. It is truly amazing what people are capable of when they have it out for you, even if you were that person's best friend at one time. Its tough to avoid sometimes, because it really can bring out the worst in you yourself, but I've taken the high road and know I'm a better person for that.

Good luck fixing the sled, it's really not that difficult once you get into what you have to do. A pop rivet tool and a snap ring tool are the only uncommon wrenches you might need.

 

[steve2k5]

Boy isn't that the truth. It is truly amazing what people are capable of when they have it out for you, even if you were that person's best friend at one time. Its tough to avoid sometimes, because it really can bring out the worst in you yourself, but I've taken the high road and know I'm a better person for that.

Good luck fixing the sled, it's really not that difficult once you get into what you have to do. A pop rivet tool and a snap ring tool are the only uncommon wrenches you might need.

yea, my x definitely brings out the worst in me, but on the positive side, my gf definitely brings out the best! Its' very difficult to take the high road and just ignore the email garbage (everything from my manhood to my not wanting to take care of my kids to my dog is starving because I don't pay enough child support...)

So - back to the topic at hand... I'm not a fast rider on the trails, I'm there to enjoy the being in the woods, and primarily with my kids - not so much for racking up miles, but racking up experiences...

bigred_tr - thanks for the tutorial, I'll probably print this and take it to the garage - only question and I'm sure others have done it - is it safe to use the rafters in the garage to lift the back end of the sled???

Thanks again all - waiting for prices from an online guy I use, spicers here is Houghton Lake is always the last resort due to jacking up their prices...

 

[dragon_07]

I replaced a pair of these last year on a 97 XLT,sorry I do not recall the cost but I do remember it was pretty inexpensive. The info provided above is correct and the rivets are needed to hold the mount in place. Dont worry it is a really simple fix as long as you have a rivet gun that will be the tricky part cuz it is a bit of a tight fit. All in all it is an inexpensive and easy fix that will put you back on the trail riding safe. By the way I have an ex also and she is worthless too. Rest assured what goes around comes around, keep your chin up and have fun with your kids.

 

[bigred_tr]

**** Yeah !

Take a 4x4 and run it between 2 rafters...Tie a tow strap around it and try hang'n from it yourself. If it will hold you..it'll hold a rearend of a sled. Also a 4X4 bolted to a 2x10 long enough to have your track off the ground. Cut a notch in the top of the 4X4 for your bumper. Cple of idea's.

Think Snow

BR

 

[steve2k5]

The saga continues...

Looks like the guy I bought these from knew something was up - removed and patched one sled (pics...) and ignored the other...


The first one is how it should look...

The second is where the bushing is missing on the sled where the sway bar is still intact

And the third is from where the guy obviously removed the sway bar and covered up the bushing holes and even painted the patch black to match the under carriage...

I'm going to give him a call, but I don't expect too much... why can't people be honest... more lessons learned...