I just rode this sled I bought before the snow. It idles fine when first started. When riding and coming to a stop it wants to idle over 3200rpm. If you burp the throttle it idles down and then slowly creeps back up. Is ther just a thumb screw for idle adjustment? The first time out was Saturday and I could not see very good on the trail. I have not even messed with it since parking it Saturday afternoon. The carbs were not cleaned before riding. I will probably pull the carbs and clean the bowls. Any other ideas?
2008 skidoo 500ss idle adjustment
- Thread starter skidoo50
- Start date
Check your carb boots for any cracks. This could be a sign that your sled may be running lean because of a crack in your carb boots. Had this happen to me only to have worse results. Carb boots don't last long as they dry rot. A good carb cleaning will help out too.
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This is typical
I've got an '09 and this is really typical of these engines.
I'm not the most knowledgeable about them, but it has to do with how the carbs are jetted (and lean).
Do a search on dootalk.com. Lots of info there. Search for "500ss hanging idle" or "500ss lean". Just don't get freaked out when you read about how these engines are time bombs. There's a group of people there saying it is mandatory you make jetting changes / mods.
There are tons of them out there that are running fine without mods. I've got just under 2k miles on mine, under all sorts of conditions, and haven't had a problem. I only worry about a lean mid-range condition if for some reason I'm running a continuous moderate speed for a long time. Then I make sure to modulate the throttle. As far as the hanging idle it has become second nature to blip the throttle when coming to a complete stop for awhile. I don't even realize I do it.
I've got an '09 and this is really typical of these engines.
I'm not the most knowledgeable about them, but it has to do with how the carbs are jetted (and lean).
Do a search on dootalk.com. Lots of info there. Search for "500ss hanging idle" or "500ss lean". Just don't get freaked out when you read about how these engines are time bombs. There's a group of people there saying it is mandatory you make jetting changes / mods.
There are tons of them out there that are running fine without mods. I've got just under 2k miles on mine, under all sorts of conditions, and haven't had a problem. I only worry about a lean mid-range condition if for some reason I'm running a continuous moderate speed for a long time. Then I make sure to modulate the throttle. As far as the hanging idle it has become second nature to blip the throttle when coming to a complete stop for awhile. I don't even realize I do it.
You have a lean condition at idle. I just fixed an idle problem with my 06 500ss. The pilot jets were plugged, and the motor would not idle. If you are gonna clean the carbs, pull the pilot jets and clean them well. Also, the factory set my idle mixture screws at 1.5 turns out, I set them at 2 turns out to richen up the idle a bit. As mentioned before, check your carb boots, they are prone to delaminate and crack. Kimpex makes boots for this motor and they are 1/2 the price of Ski-Doo. I sent my carbs to J&J performance in Stevensville, MI to be cleaned. They do good work and charged me 1/2 hour in labor. There is also a ton of info on this at dootalk.com. Good luck.
It’s just that motor. You can do some things to fix it. I would be a hamburger that your carb does not need cleaning. Everyone wants to blame a dirt carb, but do you know how many outboard motors there are out there from the 50's that still run and never had a carb opened up? a lot of them.
If you want to fix it, there are some things you can do. Your idle is controlled by the pilot jet, which is a 17.5 on that motor. Going up to a 20 will greatly help out, but at the cost of lower mpg. This is what I did: shim the needle up .020". The needle provides fuel thru the entire range of throttle. It won't give it as much down low as a bigger pilot, but some. Turn the fuel screws out 2 full turns. I also switch to 10’s for plugs (from 9’s) and run only premium fuel.
If you want to fix it, there are some things you can do. Your idle is controlled by the pilot jet, which is a 17.5 on that motor. Going up to a 20 will greatly help out, but at the cost of lower mpg. This is what I did: shim the needle up .020". The needle provides fuel thru the entire range of throttle. It won't give it as much down low as a bigger pilot, but some. Turn the fuel screws out 2 full turns. I also switch to 10’s for plugs (from 9’s) and run only premium fuel.
indecision
Member
My '04 500ss started doing that to me last year and I was afraid it was cracked boots. A friend of mine who is very knowledgeable in this area figured it could be but most likely a clogged jet so I had him remove, disassemble, inspect and clean my carbs last month. Turns out I had a very clogged jet. I've got about 140 miles on now since the cleaning and it idles down immediately and purrs like new. I do still keep a very close eye on the boots as I know this is a common problem with these and would cause the same high idle "lean" situation. My boots were fine when we took them off with 3,300 miles on them.
I read alot of people (including myself) are supporting the carbs and airbox on these motors. The rubber carb boots are the only thing that holds the carbs and airbox, and vibration causes alot of flex on the boots. I took two plastic wire ties and supported the carbs to the main frame above them, using the frame the carbs are attached to. I lifted the carbs just enough to take the weight off the boots. I also put a 1/4'' piece of foam (an old computer mouse pad doubled-up) under the airbox to support it. I also cleaned my pilot jets and turned the mixture screws out to 2 turns each, and my 06 500ss does not "hang" at idle.
Skidoo50-
I own an 05 Renegade 600HO that I have had since new and has over 7000 miles on original motor. I am on my 3rd set of carb boots, as I replaced them as soon as they started to delaminate. Every year I go through my carbs at the end of the season, and wait until the fall to put them back on. So I guess I could eliminate the "dirty carb" culprit for my sled revving high. What I have found is a simple flip of the choke lever dumps sum extra fuel into the carb and it idles itself down and stays down after that point. Like many of the threads, I think they just run that way. You run 'em hard, then when you stop, it still wants to go! No worries, there probably isn't anything really "wrong" with your sled, more of an annoyance. My $.02. Good Luck
I own an 05 Renegade 600HO that I have had since new and has over 7000 miles on original motor. I am on my 3rd set of carb boots, as I replaced them as soon as they started to delaminate. Every year I go through my carbs at the end of the season, and wait until the fall to put them back on. So I guess I could eliminate the "dirty carb" culprit for my sled revving high. What I have found is a simple flip of the choke lever dumps sum extra fuel into the carb and it idles itself down and stays down after that point. Like many of the threads, I think they just run that way. You run 'em hard, then when you stop, it still wants to go! No worries, there probably isn't anything really "wrong" with your sled, more of an annoyance. My $.02. Good Luck
I do the same thing, hanging the carbs by a zip tie
There has been lots of discussion here about the hanging idle. It only affects the 08- 500ss motor. all the talk of the torn boots does not apply to this motor as they are compleately re-designed, and are not available aftermarket yet. If it really bothers you, jet up and turn the fuel screw out another 1/4. I have tried everything to fix the lean mid range, re-jetting will mask the lean at 6500 rpm, but at the cost of fuel milage. With EGT installed, I shimmed, I changed jets, I turned the needles down, I tried needles from an 05 500ss. Everything only made the fuel milage worse, and the hot timing was still there. So I went all stock plus about a 1/4 turn on the fuel screw. Fuel milage is about 16+, runs good, Idles a little high sometimes, sometimes not. Wont hurt the engine at all to idle there, as long as the clutch is not trying to engage. So after 2 burnt pistons ( pto one year, mag the next year) I just watch the EGT, and stay away from any consistent throttle between 6000 and 7000. Wide open it runs nice 1240* temps, but in the 6000-7000 range, if held constant for more than about 1/8 mile will creep up to 1350+ real fast. Been over 1400 a couple times. Need only to blip the throttle a few time and get the rpms up or down to get the temps back in line. By the way, in order to get the temps good in the danger zone rpm, my fuel milage was down to about 5 mpg. Thats a lot of fuel!
Thanks for all the replies. I had a chance to look at it on Sunday. It looks like there is a knurled knob on top the carbs. And to me it looks like it controls both mixture screws. Can this be right? Or is that the idle control for both carbs? It looks like you have to pull the secondary clutch off just to access the carbs and airbox. Because I sure can't see the air mixture screws with all that stuff in the way. Boy they sure crammed these motors into this chassis. My 06 sure is alot easier to work on!
I just might have to blip the throttle when needed and just live with the "hanging idle"
I just might have to blip the throttle when needed and just live with the "hanging idle"
The knurled knob is for idle adjustment. The fuel screws have knureled knobs too, but are in the center of the carb on the side (right side if sitting on sled). You would probably have to remove secondary and air box to get at them. Just 1/4 turn out (lefty loosy) will make a difference.
Turning the air bleed screw(s) out, leans the idle mixture; and turning them in fattens it up. This is normal for Jap carburators on dirt bikes, sleds etc. Get a tuning manual and research what I am posting. For those with poor mileage I would suggest to check the rubber O'ring on the seat assembly. If it shrinks you lose the seal on the bore and fuel can leak past the seat, rendering the floats in-effective at controlling the fuel level.
MAK
MAK
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You cannot remove the secondary with out the correct tools, it does not just pull off like the older models. The airbox will slide out sideways, there is a tab that has to be released just behind the left carb where the airbox meets the intake bell of the carb. Also there is a collar on the intake tube at the top of the airbox that needs to be rolled upward to release that . Once you do it, it will be easy. The fuel screws are then accessable, barely, but you can get to them. Lower right side of the carbs in the front near the rubber intake boots. You cannot see them, only feel them. Look just like the idle adjustment knob.
They are not air screws, they are fuel screws. Therefore turning them out adds fuel making it richer.