One thing I notice and it seems to do it more so when sled is warm yet like when you pull off side of trail for a few minutes to stretch legs and get back on trail it can sometimes take 4-5-6 times of the key for it to start with the electric start, its not that the sled wont or cant start it seems like as soon as engine fires it kicks the starter out even though it may not have done so enough to actually start the engine. Will start right away with rope but like the electric start just kicks out before engine is running. When it is cold no issues, and I don't have this problem with my 07 F1000. Is this normal? is there a fix? I only ask as the sled is under warranty but dealer says this is normal.
2017 Eltigre 8000 elec start
- Thread starter euphoric1
- Start date
favoritos
Well-known member
Recoil is kicking out before starting? Just wanted to make sure I understand correctly.
How many miles on the sled? Reeds starting to fail? They do start harder when reeds start chipping.
Also, have you tried the throttle when starting? Just give it 1/4 pinch while cranking a warm engine.
How many miles on the sled? Reeds starting to fail? They do start harder when reeds start chipping.
Also, have you tried the throttle when starting? Just give it 1/4 pinch while cranking a warm engine.
favoritos, No will start right up when pulling recoil..one pull, but if you use the electric start when sled is warm can take up to 3 to 5 turns of the key before starts, pull the rope starts immediately, sled has about 1800 miles on it. Used to crack throttles on my carb sleds, and honestly didn't know if I had to or could on efi sleds so I did not try that. My 1000 kicks right off all the time and I asked my dealer about it and he said it was normal and that Polaris's did the same. Its like the starter Bendix kicks out as soon as the engine farts, but not enough to start it. Due to low miles, the fact it starts up immediately on rope, how it runs and idles I doubt its reeds
favoritos
Well-known member
Good to hear on the miles. Reeds usually do make it further.
The bendix can get sticky and hang up. I have seen some of them do this intermittently. Clean up the bendix and use a dry lubricant. Nothing that will attract dust. That may fix the problem for awhile.
Hopefully not the following issue. They are very touchy about having a fully charged battery. Very touchy. I have had stators that fail at high temps. Batteries would lose charge while riding. Very difficult to diagnose if you can't see the voltage while riding.
The bendix can get sticky and hang up. I have seen some of them do this intermittently. Clean up the bendix and use a dry lubricant. Nothing that will attract dust. That may fix the problem for awhile.
Hopefully not the following issue. They are very touchy about having a fully charged battery. Very touchy. I have had stators that fail at high temps. Batteries would lose charge while riding. Very difficult to diagnose if you can't see the voltage while riding.
T
Tracker
Guest
I might know what it is... mine does the same thing and I know the kicking out that you're talkin about these guys don't know what you're talkin about and here's the deal number one is do you have the Suzuki motor in that thing and I'm going to assume that the El Tigre has the high output which is what I believe I have and here's what you do you give it a tiny bit of gas just blip the throttle a tiny bit just like we would in the days of the 70s and hit the key at the same time then let off you'll see starts right up every time so I haven't figured out exactly what it is but in my opinion that tells me it's gasoline because when I'm out there I can't get 93 and mine is got to have 93 any lesson it starts running a tad funky so I've been filling up with 91 and dumping half a bottle of isopropyl and then one other thing oh yeah the isopropyl is every freaking fill up that's what happened when your Motors burned down you have to add it every freaking fill up those three slides that went down that's what was wrong if you to put that in
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And I agree it's a PIA and I also notice it's related to heat and how long you let it idle before shutting it off I got there a high speed run let it idle quite a bit and then shut it off seems to help
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And I agree it's a PIA and I also notice it's related to heat and how long you let it idle before shutting it off I got there a high speed run let it idle quite a bit and then shut it off seems to help
T
Tracker
Guest
I think it's a safety kick out on the starter but in my opinion it doesn't it should go around one more time or two more times before kicking out and I know what you mean you pull the cord is perfect so that's a couple more times around more than the starter is before it kicks out
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This is why 93 octane is so important is because it pushes the cylinder down faster and harder then a lower octane and then it would fire right up it's because our compression is higher or spot-on at the highest maximum limit
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This is why 93 octane is so important is because it pushes the cylinder down faster and harder then a lower octane and then it would fire right up it's because our compression is higher or spot-on at the highest maximum limit
Thanks favoritos and Tracker, yes Favoritos the battery was low and put a new one in before we left I put in a Yuasa AGM battery as per recommendation by another john dee'r will try the dry lube and Tracker you are correct it is a Suzuki motor which I have no worry of as never had an issue even with their so called "problematic" motors in the past and you are correct, I could not have explained it better.... seems like turns a couple times and just kicks out whether engine is running or not. Was thinking about the ISO also as the last place we all filled up at had an above ground tank and it has definitely been cold enough where condensation could have formed in airspace in tank and ended up you know where it was -13 the night our group lost them. Waiting on test kit to arrive. The place where we stayed ran out of fuel on that Saturday we arrived and was still empty when we left on wed, air space, extreme cold and metal tanks exposed to it all do not mix and im sure that's what happened. The eltigre calls for atleast 91 octane so that's what it gets at a minimum, if I doubt what I put in, it gets a but of booster just to be safe
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Tracker
Guest
The only time I don't add nox ice is when I'm in a major town at like a shell or some major brand gas station any other place I add Knox ice whether I like it or not..... every time are you hearing me....when I say every time ....this will be your last motor burn down if you do that
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And that's 91 ....MINIMUM....so it's barely 89 + 1/2 or 90 due to it not being pure and so when you add in the half bottle of nox ice that adds 1/2 of point of octane so we're probably running 90.5 actually and the computer adjust and you'll notice you use more oil and gas mileage will go down...it really sacs that most of these places have 91 is all and not good premium gas
PS... I believe it's 5 or 7 oz that raises the octane by half a point
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And that's 91 ....MINIMUM....so it's barely 89 + 1/2 or 90 due to it not being pure and so when you add in the half bottle of nox ice that adds 1/2 of point of octane so we're probably running 90.5 actually and the computer adjust and you'll notice you use more oil and gas mileage will go down...it really sacs that most of these places have 91 is all and not good premium gas
PS... I believe it's 5 or 7 oz that raises the octane by half a point
Higher octane gas is processed through additional steps that further refine the blend and cause it to burn more slowly than lower octanes. Octane is only a measure to indicate resistance to knock.
T
Tracker
Guest
And knocking is when you don't have enough power to push the cylinder down straight and hard and it slaps against the walls so like I said you need 93 octane because the explosion pushes the cylinder down straighter and harder now whether it burn slower or not is a different problem
There's more Force in the explosion at the top of the cylinder with 93 octane
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The short answer is that octane is the measure of how much compression a fuel can withstand before igniting. Or, in layman’s terms, the higher the octane rating, the less likely the fuel is going to pre-ignite (read: explode unexpectedly) at higher pressures and damage your engine. That’s why performance cars with higher compression engines require higher octane (premium) fuel.
T
Tracker
Guest
Knocking and pinging is the Piston slapping against the cylinder walls because there wasn't enough downward Force and the fix for that is to run higher octane professor.... as anyone who's ever run a Performance Engine That was pinging knows that the octane is too low
The pinging/knocking sound you hear is when pockets of fuel ignite prior to ignition spark most often caused by heat from high cylinder pressures. When the spark plug ignites the fuel around it the flame fronts collide creating a ping/knocking sound.
My guess is we won't ever agree on most of this but at least we agree if it's pinging you need a higher octane. I own an engine shop and have been building race engines for about 40 years now and never thought of myself as a "professor" but I do know a little about octane and why you would need higher numbers.