Has anyone had any luck with ski doo warranty on the belts, I had 377 miles on my sled/belt when the belt started coming apart. My dealer says they wont even warranty them after one mile.. I thought I read somewhere on here where someones dealer warranty their belt after if failed around 500 miles. I had to have them replace three bolts that broke on the primary when the sled only had 180 miles on it, I drove approx 15 miles with it broke and they said it didnt hurt my belt at all. Anyways has anyone ever had the dealer replace or warranty a factory belt?? Thanks in advance
Belt failure/ warranty?
- Thread starter brown50rn
- Start date
polarisrider1
New member
I had a belt replaced on my 06 600 SDI Renegade when it had 100 miles on it. I asked and they gave me one. FREE. I am sure it was not free since I have bought 12 sleds from them in 12 years. They felt obligated, I'm sure. A belt is not a warranty item. you could of smoked it loading your sled. Puff up your chest and march to the service dept. counter and ask. You never know what may happen.
teamarctic
New member
more times than not, its not the belt. your clutches are prolly out of line or a motor mount is broke. those would be the first thing i would look at if i was shredding belts
I had a belt last year from doo have the white string come off of the side and could see that it was ready to come apart. They told me it was my clutchs out of alignment. I just happened to have the sled in the parking lot so they checked them real quick, they were good so they gave me a new replacement belt. He told me they had a run on some bad belts. This was a belt for an 800 X though. I think the last numbers were 149 but can't remember for sure.
I have seen very few belts get wrty. Same with tracks. The big four usually play the "send it to me and I'll make a determination at that point" game. I don't think they were digging on you with Good Luck, rather there are a lot of dealers in this industry that are only concerned about the front door (sales and parts) and not service/set up. How your sled was set up may affect the way it runs for years. Most of the time you can figure out what kind of dealer you are buying from by the sales to service employess they have. It also doesn't hurt to ask the service mngr if he charges his time for set up back to the product/sales dept. There are too many variables to make a belt break and most of them are customer induced. With that few miles, if you think you didn't do something wrong, bring the sled back and have the setup dealer go back through the sled. Call it a 1st sevice. If they want to charge for big adjustments light a big fire under your salesman's desk.
techsledder
Member
What?! You went through 11 belts in one year?! At over $100 a pop that's crazy! Hope you're a sponsored racing guy.
brown50rn, go over to dootalk and search the XP forum. You'll find more than you'll ever want to know about this belt issue. Some you have to take with a grain of salt. I bought my XP 800R last year used with very few miles on it. The belt it came to me had one little white cord coming out of it. I did some research and bought a new 377 and secondary shimming kit. I have close to 1000 miles on this belt and no cords blowing out the sides of the belt. Problem solved? Hopefully. I've never heard of a belt getting replaced on OEM warranty. But it never hurts to ask.
polarisrider1
New member
My 06 RMK755 was eating belts from the start. I added the SLP torque stops to it in addition to replacing the smushed out stock stop. problem went away. 11 belts? you may have a broken motor mount.
Yeah, burning that many belts did make me a little mad. My dealer didn't do anything to fix the problem, instead they just kept giving me free belts. I have no Idea if they got them warrantied, I would walk in with a bad one and they would give me a new one. I sent the 1st one back to Doo and it was a 2 month process to get the $100 back. They did, but they said they will only do one.
Back to the dealer: I would go in every week to buy more oil and exchange a belt. I complained constantly but the owner would tell me I was the only one blowing belts. When he left the parts guy would tell me they had a pile of blown belts off 800's in the back. Every week was the same thing. The owner would see me walk in and he'd disappear. He would blame the clutching, and I would tell him its stock. He'd blame the tower brace not letting the motor move, and I'd tell him it wasn't mounted to the motor. He would blame the studs, which I had them install. I would leave the sled there for over a week to get checked out and they wouldn't even look at it. I was soo pissed with them and ready to go postal they would just give me belts so they didn't have to do any work.
But your problem is alignment. You can check it yourself, or goto the dealer. It doesn't matter it will fall in BRP specs because they have a mile of tolerance. If it falls in the gap, which every sled will, the dealer cannot do any work and get paid. THE BRP X dimension is WRONG. Most sleds fall around 36.5-37.5 and it needs to be 39-40.5mm!!! The seconday is too far IN causing a dogbone in the leg, causing HEAT, causing cords to pull. Your need to shim the secondary, normally 3mm, to stop the outside cords from letting go.
I did alot of things last yr to help. I did some mild clutching, tower brace, proper belt wash/break in, vented the guard and it all helped, but didn't stop it. This yr I did the 3mm shim and vented the Clutch tower with an SLP vent and Frogzskins on the backside of panel (photos below). My belts now last and heat is down a bunch. The clutches are cold when trail riding and only warm when off trail
If you need a shim kit, let me know. Should have more next week.
And yes, this yr I do prototype testing for Carlisle........ So belts are
Back to the dealer: I would go in every week to buy more oil and exchange a belt. I complained constantly but the owner would tell me I was the only one blowing belts. When he left the parts guy would tell me they had a pile of blown belts off 800's in the back. Every week was the same thing. The owner would see me walk in and he'd disappear. He would blame the clutching, and I would tell him its stock. He'd blame the tower brace not letting the motor move, and I'd tell him it wasn't mounted to the motor. He would blame the studs, which I had them install. I would leave the sled there for over a week to get checked out and they wouldn't even look at it. I was soo pissed with them and ready to go postal they would just give me belts so they didn't have to do any work.
But your problem is alignment. You can check it yourself, or goto the dealer. It doesn't matter it will fall in BRP specs because they have a mile of tolerance. If it falls in the gap, which every sled will, the dealer cannot do any work and get paid. THE BRP X dimension is WRONG. Most sleds fall around 36.5-37.5 and it needs to be 39-40.5mm!!! The seconday is too far IN causing a dogbone in the leg, causing HEAT, causing cords to pull. Your need to shim the secondary, normally 3mm, to stop the outside cords from letting go.
I did alot of things last yr to help. I did some mild clutching, tower brace, proper belt wash/break in, vented the guard and it all helped, but didn't stop it. This yr I did the 3mm shim and vented the Clutch tower with an SLP vent and Frogzskins on the backside of panel (photos below). My belts now last and heat is down a bunch. The clutches are cold when trail riding and only warm when off trail
If you need a shim kit, let me know. Should have more next week.
And yes, this yr I do prototype testing for Carlisle........ So belts are
shim the secondary?
That looks good, I think I will give that a try, is it easy to shim the secondary, I have never done it before, but I am tired of calling my dealer. He told me yesterday that there is no way it could be out of alighnment, I have bought two new sleds from him which I know is a big deal, but you would think he would try and make me happy. Any suggestions on other brand belts, instead of the OEM ones.
That looks good, I think I will give that a try, is it easy to shim the secondary, I have never done it before, but I am tired of calling my dealer. He told me yesterday that there is no way it could be out of alighnment, I have bought two new sleds from him which I know is a big deal, but you would think he would try and make me happy. Any suggestions on other brand belts, instead of the OEM ones.
He is right, its probablly not out of alignment since the spec is +/- 2mm, But is still wrong. He knows its out, but he can't do anything and get paid. Tell him to call BRP get an approval to make your X 40mm. If he doesn't than you will never buy another sled from him again. I know I stopped using the dealer I bought my sled from.
Shimming is 30 min job and pretty easy to do. I can send you some directions, just send me your email address. As for belts, each one I have used is for a different application.
Doo 383. Good all round belt. Can handle soem off trail, but not all weekend.
Doo 377. Great off trail belt. Not best for Top end. Trail is OK, but doesn't work 100% until very warm
Carlisle XS821 or 803. Great belt for trail. Best Top end. OK for off trail, but not as good as 383
Shimming is 30 min job and pretty easy to do. I can send you some directions, just send me your email address. As for belts, each one I have used is for a different application.
Doo 383. Good all round belt. Can handle soem off trail, but not all weekend.
Doo 377. Great off trail belt. Not best for Top end. Trail is OK, but doesn't work 100% until very warm
Carlisle XS821 or 803. Great belt for trail. Best Top end. OK for off trail, but not as good as 383
techsledder
Member
salmonbum, good to hear they were free for you! I did the same cooling techniques to my summit. Holes in the belt cover and SLP & JC Custom vents clutch side venting. I also threw in JC's Pod cold air intake vent, but that wasn't for clutching really. If you need another Carlisle tester let me know!<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
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brown50rn, Be careful when doing this, but you can check your alignment first yourself. Take your clutch side panel off and then the belt cover. With rear end on a jack stand and the track off the ground, start your engine. While standing on the sled in your normal riding position look down the belt from your secondary to the primary. Throttle up the engine to run the track. Watch your belt as it rolls off the secondary to your primary. On my sled, I could see with deflection in the belt from the secondary to the primary. I shimmed mine with a 3mm shim and its dead straight on now. You can also measure your alignment with a straight 3/8" X 24" long steel bar. Either get the shims from salmonbum or do the search on Dootalk for the shim kit. It's not that difficult if you're decent at turning a wrench. If you're not used to doing your own sled maintenance then it maybe a bit much. <o></o>
There is also a replacement jackshaft out there in the aftermarket that makes your stock doo QRS secondary a “floating clutch” just like the Team secondary clutchs that manufactures use.<o></o>
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IMHO, I don't take my sleds to dealers unless they are still under warranty. I can or will do most of the work myself. Some sled tuners on Snowest that do clutch tuning for a living are recommending not using anything but the 377 belts because of its proper material makeup. But at over $100 per belt and willingness to warranty a product, I can understand why some folks are starting to look at the Carlisle and other aftermarket belts.
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></o>brown50rn, Be careful when doing this, but you can check your alignment first yourself. Take your clutch side panel off and then the belt cover. With rear end on a jack stand and the track off the ground, start your engine. While standing on the sled in your normal riding position look down the belt from your secondary to the primary. Throttle up the engine to run the track. Watch your belt as it rolls off the secondary to your primary. On my sled, I could see with deflection in the belt from the secondary to the primary. I shimmed mine with a 3mm shim and its dead straight on now. You can also measure your alignment with a straight 3/8" X 24" long steel bar. Either get the shims from salmonbum or do the search on Dootalk for the shim kit. It's not that difficult if you're decent at turning a wrench. If you're not used to doing your own sled maintenance then it maybe a bit much. <o
></o>There is also a replacement jackshaft out there in the aftermarket that makes your stock doo QRS secondary a “floating clutch” just like the Team secondary clutchs that manufactures use.<o
></o><o
></o>IMHO, I don't take my sleds to dealers unless they are still under warranty. I can or will do most of the work myself. Some sled tuners on Snowest that do clutch tuning for a living are recommending not using anything but the 377 belts because of its proper material makeup. But at over $100 per belt and willingness to warranty a product, I can understand why some folks are starting to look at the Carlisle and other aftermarket belts.
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my email is brown50rn@comcast.net THANKS FOR YOUR TIME AND RESPONSES!!