My sons 1996 Chev Cavalier brake paddle goes right to the floor - no brakes. He has been filling the master cylinder for a couple months, so we know there's a leak, but even with the master cylinder full, we can not get the brakes pumped up. Front left does bleed correctly, but the front right has no fluid pressure at all. Check both ABS fuses - okay. The front bleeder of the master cylinder bleeds fine, but the other bleeder has no fluid at all - when I removed the bleeder valve, it was totally dry. I'm thinking we have either a master cylinder or ABS modulator problem. I do not know if it is a integral or nonintegral system - any ideas?
Car Brake Question
- Thread starter eyeman
- Start date
anonomoose
New member
If it is dry, sounds like the master is gone. At the age of that machine, you might as well redo the master brake cylinder and have it overwith. Then move on to the more expensive stuff. Since pumping the brake should ge fluid to both sections of the brakes, it is likely the master.
Remember that the brake system is a diagnal system, right front left rear, etc.
If the master is still good, but just too much air in the sytem, it might mimic this dry issue. It has been my experience that once air is introduced into the brake system, it is hard to get it out unless you have some good equipment....
Remember that the brake system is a diagnal system, right front left rear, etc.
If the master is still good, but just too much air in the sytem, it might mimic this dry issue. It has been my experience that once air is introduced into the brake system, it is hard to get it out unless you have some good equipment....
yamahauler
Active member
http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?A=NMBP3186_0306735975&An=599001+101996+50012+2012016
http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?A=NMAM3186_0306697795&An=599001+101996+50012+2012016
first link is rebuilt cylinder, second link is new cylinder for under $100.
Is this what it looks like?
http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?A=NMAM3186_0306697795&An=599001+101996+50012+2012016
first link is rebuilt cylinder, second link is new cylinder for under $100.
Is this what it looks like?
The links only get me to a NAPA store locator site by asking for a zip code.
You never said where the leak is. Usually in the rear on a cav, but certainly could be in the line from abs unit to RF hose. This would explain everything. OR, you have air trapped in the abs unit. This is easiest to get out with a scan tool, but the catch is, the abs must be fully operational with no trouble codes stored, or the bleed procedure will not run. Also, sometimes the abs unit will develop an internal leak. When this happens, you will have fluid at all 4 corners, but poor pedal.
yamahauler
Active member
just do a search at the napa site for master brake cylinder. It will ask you make, model, and zip code for a store location. There you will see the parts.
They also have the abs unit as well but that is around $500.
Are you able to pinpoint the leak with putting cardboard on floor to see where it may be dripping if it is an external leak.
They also have the abs unit as well but that is around $500.
Are you able to pinpoint the leak with putting cardboard on floor to see where it may be dripping if it is an external leak.
No leaks up front, so I am assuming it's at a rear brake cylinder. I have not pulled a rear drum yet. The leak is minor however. I still can not get peddle pressure. No fluid at all the corners. Nothing at the right front for sure and nothing at the ABS modulator going to the FR or LR.
How do I reset the ABS module and a little help with the bench bleed too?
Youll need a Tech 2 to properly bleed the system, this is a dealer tool or a good shop will have one, Autozone or another parts store WILL NOT HAVE THIS. You can damage the ABS module, if not used and or done properly.
Bench bleed is easy, there are 2 plugs or adapters with little hoses, read the instructions that come in the box.
Place the master in a vise(dont crank it too hard) and fill with brake fluid, use a large phillips screwdriver to manually push the back of the cylinder in causing the fluid to move into the ports and bleed out the air. Do this till no bubbles escape in the reservoir, this might take a while.
Then put on the vehicle and use the Tech 2 to bleed the ABS module and the entire system.
Replace both rear wheel cylinders, they are cheap and easy to do. Spray penetrating lube on the brake lines at the cylinders a few days before you do the work and keep spraying them. If you need a little heat use a small torch
and heat the area around the line, not the line itself. Use a line wrench never a combination wrench.
You might need to replace the calipers also if you cant get the bleeders out, but again a little heat around the bleeder helps a lot.
POLARIS TURBO
New member
You stated that your son was adding fluid ? First thing to do is to varify where it os leaking from period.
It was a 20" left rear brake line leak. The one feeding the cylinder, after the flexible line. Of course I rounded the fitting and ran out of time futzing with it. No line wrench, you know the rest. The consolation = Houghton to Copper Harbor and back via Lac La Belle, Lake Linden on Sunday - Great ride. Now it's back to reality and the brakes. I need my truck back....
Attachments
Check out classic tube or in line tube for the parts if you dont want to bend your own.
Heat up the cylinder where the line goes in and use a vise grips, it will come out. As for the other end, be VERY careful if you use heat there so you dont heat up the rubber hose and have it shoot off the crimped end.....
Replace the wheel cylinder(s) that one for sure.
Heat up the cylinder where the line goes in and use a vise grips, it will come out. As for the other end, be VERY careful if you use heat there so you dont heat up the rubber hose and have it shoot off the crimped end.....
Replace the wheel cylinder(s) that one for sure.