So I am building a house and will have a tuck under garage and want to pour a slab outside the overhead door. This space will be used for snowmobiles ect in the winter and want to be able to drive in drive out without an issue of scratching/cracking the finish on the concrete and whatnot. Anyone had any luck with a coating that will last without peeling and whatnot?? Something that is carbide/pick proof? Don't run picks now but never know in the future. I don't want to have to load on a dolly everytime I bring it inside either.
Carbide proof concrete or concrete coating??
- Thread starter slimcake
- Start date
mezz
Well-known member
slimcake, why don't you just invest in a set of Sure Grip Dollies, Easy on, Easy off, drivable in forward & reverse. Now, that doesn't answer the picks issue, but, other than that, these things are awesome, & cheaper than expensive cement coating that will eventually break down.-Mezz
OK not sure if this idea helps you or NOT
BUT if you have a local or near by salvage yard., you can get a few old truck bed liners, and build a drive way with them to drive tru your under cover deal, and then , IF you make it with hinges, you can have it so it can fold up, and be removed fast for summer use
that stuf take a beating and doesn't weigh much, and most places here sell used one's like 20 bucks each, DOn't know how long you need it, but in 8 ft beds, two will cover 16 ft and 3 24 and so on
its a easy cheap possible solution for you maybe??
BUT if you have a local or near by salvage yard., you can get a few old truck bed liners, and build a drive way with them to drive tru your under cover deal, and then , IF you make it with hinges, you can have it so it can fold up, and be removed fast for summer use
that stuf take a beating and doesn't weigh much, and most places here sell used one's like 20 bucks each, DOn't know how long you need it, but in 8 ft beds, two will cover 16 ft and 3 24 and so on
its a easy cheap possible solution for you maybe??
favoritos
Well-known member
I'm curious about this as well. I have a brand new heated slab in the garage and a heated drive. I do not want to tear up the beautiful new concrete. I do use dollies when I have the sled out of the pickup. My problem is from loading. The studs and carbides are tearing up the concrete at the base of the ramp. I thought about rolling the sled out into the yard but it is terraced on one side of the driveway. The other side is a minimum of 16% grade. That bugger would roll away pretty quick once over the apex.
Yep not the cure all by any means stuff does wear off & looks ratty when it wears. Not sure if more of a stud wear or carbides?
1flatlander2
Member
dont know the exact number but stamped concrete with a color hardener had like 10,000 psi supposed to not chip when used with a plow
Is it the same stuff all other pavement markings (yellow/white lines, pedestrian crossings, etc) are made of? Because that is slippery when wet and I don't know that I would want that on my driveway.
exciteable
New member
http://mdotcf.state.mi.us/public/dessssp/spss_source/12SP811(G)v1.pdf
MDOT's Special Provision for
PROTECTIVE OVERLAY FOR PAVEMENT AT SNOWMOBILE TRAIL CROSSINGS
It appears they use two different processes, depending on the pavement.
For concrete, they use an epoxy system. It appears to be the same product(s) they use on some of their bridge decks. From the looks of the SP, preparation is the key.
For asphalt surfaces they use a thermoplastic system. Only one product is qualified. It's called Cleansol E4.
MDOT's Special Provision for
PROTECTIVE OVERLAY FOR PAVEMENT AT SNOWMOBILE TRAIL CROSSINGS
It appears they use two different processes, depending on the pavement.
For concrete, they use an epoxy system. It appears to be the same product(s) they use on some of their bridge decks. From the looks of the SP, preparation is the key.
For asphalt surfaces they use a thermoplastic system. Only one product is qualified. It's called Cleansol E4.
Last edited:
xsledder
Active member
Pretty much, yes.