A buddy of mine has had the end of his stock pipe on his doo 800 rot off to many times that at the begining of last season he bought a dyno port ceramic pipe. Spent good money on it just to see when servicing his machine this weekend for the year that the end of that one has rotted off also. Less then a season on a $400 pipe. He contacted dyno and the will "sell" him a replacement end that he needs to weld on. My question is how do we go about welding a coated pipe? Do we have to grind the coating off of it first?? Then where is the avantage to haveing a coated pipe? He is a lot more calm about the whole thing then I would be. That was a lot of jack to drop on a pipe to have this happen in basically less then 800 miles and a few months. Anyone else have this problemk?? Thanks Doug
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
Dyno Port pipe
- Thread starter dab102999
- Start date
SuperTurboDiesel
New member
Doug,
Awww damn, I'd be pretty furious too!
First of all, something must be "wrong" there. Why do his pipes keep "rotting" off in the same places? What year and model of Doo is it?
The "rotting" alone is very strange.
Secondly, as for welding a new "stub" on the ceramic pipe...
Yes, you will need to "grind off" the ceramic coating, but ONLY where you will be MIG welding the new stub back on.
Some of the nearby ceramic may very likely "pop" and flake off when you weld on the pipe. It does not do well with the extreme temperatures associated with molten metal (the welding process). There's really nothing that you can do about it, aside from getting the entire pipe re-coated, which would be pretty pointless due to the cost.
Get yourself a can of good high temp paint and paint the pipe in the bare areas after you are done welding it.
The pipe will never look "as pretty" as it did when it was brand new, but that's just the way it goes.
I'd be furious as all get out if I dropped $400 bucks on a pipe and it only lasted one year. That's rediculous considering most pipes last 10+ years.
But, before I went and cut or welded anything, I'd be all over Dynoport's arse, FORCING them to replace my pipe for FREE or otherwise taking them to small claims court. Of course you can only do that if you have a leg to stand on. You'll need your proof of purchase receipt and you'd better look into their warranty/guarantees really good though first, to see if you even have a fighting chance.
Additionally, you still should really concentrate on trying to find out what is causing these pipes to prematurely rot. Seems that something odd may be definitely going on there. (I'd suggest talking to many different Ski-Doo dealers about it and see what they can tell you.)
I once bought some ceramic coated headers for a 1987 Chevy 3/4-ton 4x4 (350 TBI V-8) daily-driver pickup truck that I used to have.
The headers were made by Holley, under their exhaust division name "Flowtech". I paid $150 extra for the ceramic coated headers as opposed to the standard powder coated black-painted headers.
The ceramic was poorly sprayed on, with missed spots due to being sprayed poorly and not dipped as they should have been. I never should have installed them, and should have made them take them back right away. But, like most people, I needed the parts "now" so I could get my truck "up and running" again. Needless to say, I had issues with rust only 6 months later. I then contacted Holley and tore them a new one. They held fast and said that they only had a full 90-day warranty. Nothing more, sorry.
Well, that totally cooked my goose. Fine by me. Never again will I buy any of their exhaust system products. Never. I sprayed them with high-temp paint, never looking back. $150 would have bought me a lot of replacement exhaust paint! Heck, for that matter, it would have bought me another set of headers once the first painted set rotted out! Oh well, live and learn I guess!
Since then, I've decided, if you can justify the price of stainless exhaust components, go stainless. (If it's even available.) If you can't get it in stainless, or it's just wayyy too out of reasonable price range, then just go powder-coated, and touch the pipes up every year with some decent high-temp paint. (I often use stove paint on my sleds pipes.)
If you want to keep all the heat in the pipe and not let it escape through the side walls of the pipe, buy some exhaust wrap. They sell it at the good auto parts stores. For what it is, it's pretty expensive, and unless you have issues with the pipe melting things in close proximity, or you are into hardcore racing performance, then I wouldn't bother with it either.
Well, hope I was of some help. I can totally relate to your situation. I have a Dynoport single performance pipe and silencer on my 1997 XLT SP, and the pipe cracked in a lot of places for no good reason. I MIG welded the ever livin' sheet outta it, ground the welds smooth, and painted it in a metallic black stove paint. So far, she's holding up pretty good with no problems since. Sounds like Dynoport is making their pipes with wayyy too thin a gauge of steel, and the end consumer is getting the screw-job. It figures. We pay a lot, get a little. Such are modern times.
Awww damn, I'd be pretty furious too!
First of all, something must be "wrong" there. Why do his pipes keep "rotting" off in the same places? What year and model of Doo is it?
The "rotting" alone is very strange.
Secondly, as for welding a new "stub" on the ceramic pipe...
Yes, you will need to "grind off" the ceramic coating, but ONLY where you will be MIG welding the new stub back on.
Some of the nearby ceramic may very likely "pop" and flake off when you weld on the pipe. It does not do well with the extreme temperatures associated with molten metal (the welding process). There's really nothing that you can do about it, aside from getting the entire pipe re-coated, which would be pretty pointless due to the cost.
Get yourself a can of good high temp paint and paint the pipe in the bare areas after you are done welding it.
The pipe will never look "as pretty" as it did when it was brand new, but that's just the way it goes.
I'd be furious as all get out if I dropped $400 bucks on a pipe and it only lasted one year. That's rediculous considering most pipes last 10+ years.
But, before I went and cut or welded anything, I'd be all over Dynoport's arse, FORCING them to replace my pipe for FREE or otherwise taking them to small claims court. Of course you can only do that if you have a leg to stand on. You'll need your proof of purchase receipt and you'd better look into their warranty/guarantees really good though first, to see if you even have a fighting chance.
Additionally, you still should really concentrate on trying to find out what is causing these pipes to prematurely rot. Seems that something odd may be definitely going on there. (I'd suggest talking to many different Ski-Doo dealers about it and see what they can tell you.)
I once bought some ceramic coated headers for a 1987 Chevy 3/4-ton 4x4 (350 TBI V-8) daily-driver pickup truck that I used to have.
The headers were made by Holley, under their exhaust division name "Flowtech". I paid $150 extra for the ceramic coated headers as opposed to the standard powder coated black-painted headers.
The ceramic was poorly sprayed on, with missed spots due to being sprayed poorly and not dipped as they should have been. I never should have installed them, and should have made them take them back right away. But, like most people, I needed the parts "now" so I could get my truck "up and running" again. Needless to say, I had issues with rust only 6 months later. I then contacted Holley and tore them a new one. They held fast and said that they only had a full 90-day warranty. Nothing more, sorry.
Well, that totally cooked my goose. Fine by me. Never again will I buy any of their exhaust system products. Never. I sprayed them with high-temp paint, never looking back. $150 would have bought me a lot of replacement exhaust paint! Heck, for that matter, it would have bought me another set of headers once the first painted set rotted out! Oh well, live and learn I guess!
Since then, I've decided, if you can justify the price of stainless exhaust components, go stainless. (If it's even available.) If you can't get it in stainless, or it's just wayyy too out of reasonable price range, then just go powder-coated, and touch the pipes up every year with some decent high-temp paint. (I often use stove paint on my sleds pipes.)
If you want to keep all the heat in the pipe and not let it escape through the side walls of the pipe, buy some exhaust wrap. They sell it at the good auto parts stores. For what it is, it's pretty expensive, and unless you have issues with the pipe melting things in close proximity, or you are into hardcore racing performance, then I wouldn't bother with it either.
Well, hope I was of some help. I can totally relate to your situation. I have a Dynoport single performance pipe and silencer on my 1997 XLT SP, and the pipe cracked in a lot of places for no good reason. I MIG welded the ever livin' sheet outta it, ground the welds smooth, and painted it in a metallic black stove paint. So far, she's holding up pretty good with no problems since. Sounds like Dynoport is making their pipes with wayyy too thin a gauge of steel, and the end consumer is getting the screw-job. It figures. We pay a lot, get a little. Such are modern times.
The first pipe was because of age and vibration. 01 sled with 10,000 miles. Second pipe was obviously bad weld job. The doughnut ring was put on, pipe welded and flanged, doughnut ring brought up to flange and tack welded. You can see where the tack welds let go and I sent pics to dyno port and waiting for answer. (I guess I shouldn't have said rotted off for the dyno pipe, that was not an acurate discription) Untilmatly I am just helping him out and it is his call. I would make a replacement happen also but small claims court? Who has the time or money to involve into that for a part that so far they are offering to sell him for $20. It is just the point and principle and wanted to see if anyone else is having these problems.