Started the sled 2009 polaris 550 touring and noticed gas running on the floor. I shut the gas off and ran it dry until motor ran out of gas. I didnt have time to look at it that day but today 4 days later I turned the gas on and started sled and no leak. Should I be concerned?
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Fuel leak
- Thread starter mebearman
- Start date
Started the sled 2009 polaris 550 touring and noticed gas running on the floor. I shut the gas off and ran it dry until motor ran out of gas. I didnt have time to look at it that day but today 4 days later I turned the gas on and started sled and no leak. Should I be concerned?[/QUOTE I believe this machine has carburetors correct? not Injected? if carbs more than likely a little gum or varnish formed in seat or on needle tip causing carb to over flow come out vent tubes run into belly pan and on to floor, if has carburetors and has water trap tubes on bottom of bowls potentially one of those cracked but if was would not stop leaking, personally if does have carburetors, for piece of mind and assurance you can ride it and not have to fix it, I would remove and clean carburetors, Just my opinion
you could have also/or also have a sticking float, that is causing fuel to flow
this could lead to larger issues, as in filling motor with fuel if it sticks again!
if me, I'd want them carbs cleaned and inspected, also, HOW Old is the fuel in this sleds tank?
if old, maybe drain tank before cleaning carbs and have a good look inside tank, as if inside tank is dirty, cleaning carbs might be a wasted energy~
this could lead to larger issues, as in filling motor with fuel if it sticks again!
if me, I'd want them carbs cleaned and inspected, also, HOW Old is the fuel in this sleds tank?
if old, maybe drain tank before cleaning carbs and have a good look inside tank, as if inside tank is dirty, cleaning carbs might be a wasted energy~
you could have also/or also have a sticking float, that is causing fuel to flow
this could lead to larger issues, as in filling motor with fuel if it sticks again!
if me, I'd want them carbs cleaned and inspected, also, HOW Old is the fuel in this sleds tank?
if old, maybe drain tank before cleaning carbs and have a good look inside tank, as if inside tank is dirty, cleaning carbs might be a wasted energy~
I thought about draining fuel and adding fresh with sea foam.
meberman, drain fuel yes, seafoam no, there is no fuel additive that effectively cleans carburetors, it may band aid fix the issue but guarantee the issue (gum and varnish) will still be there. Disassemble and clean the carburetors or have them cleaned, drain fuel start with fresh, then use additive to prevent the issue from happening again, and I would use something other than seafoam. Prior to what some may claim there is no such thing as mechanic in a can. Not sure if you are located anywhere near me but if you are able to remove carbs I would be willing to clean them for you.
I thought about draining fuel and adding fresh with sea foam.
G
G
Guest
2009 is old enough to have a cracked fuel line also. They are cheap plastic and they get brittle over time. Also cheap to replace.
T
Tracker
Guest
I thought about draining fuel and adding fresh with sea foam.
theres one mixture that will clean em without taking them apart...maybe... if ya didn't use too much seafoam and it turned to green sludge.....you fill with CHEVRON PREMIUM which has technoline additive and you add half a bottle of TECHRON at auto parts store....that can and will clean most carbs....but best is taking them apart no matter what sometimes.....makes me appreciate my CAT and EFI's for sure...and I run TECHRON in my sleds and cars and ATV's and truck....and use it exclusively out west when climbing mountains....it has napthaleen in it and is a top teir additive that works....and ALL AIRPLANE FUEL USES TECHRON ADDITIVE for these very reasons....just an FYI
T
Tracker
Guest
Started the sled 2009 polaris 550 touring and noticed gas running on the floor. I shut the gas off and ran it dry until motor ran out of gas. I didnt have time to look at it that day but today 4 days later I turned the gas on and started sled and no leak. Should I be concerned?
sometimes on me carbed sleds the choke sticks and dumps fuel after sitting...sometimes its fine after that and sometimes they need cleaned no matter what...IMO if no leak and runs fine....I would dump in the TECHRON and ride a tank and call it a day...after that keep on keepin' on
theres one mixture that will clean em without taking them apart...maybe... if ya didn't use too much seafoam and it turned to green sludge.....you fill with CHEVRON PREMIUM which has technoline additive and you add half a bottle of TECHRON at auto parts store....that can and will clean most carbs....but best is taking them apart no matter what sometimes.....makes me appreciate my CAT and EFI's for sure...and I run TECHRON in my sleds and cars and ATV's and truck....and use it exclusively out west when climbing mountains....it has napthaleen in it and is a top teir additive that works....and ALL AIRPLANE FUEL USES TECHRON ADDITIVE for these very reasons....just an FYI
SeaFoam may not be a mechanic in a can, but I can tell you that SeaFoam is NOT the cause of the green gunk, or sludge!!! That "green" is the result of fuel dropping out of spec, and the degrade phase of stale fuel due to different elements. Moisture, water, and ect.
G
G
Guest
A good friend of mine is a small engine mechanic and has been for years. He still swears by Seafoam. I have always had good luck with Seafoam. But it sure seems to have gotten a bad rap on this site.
also a heads up IF you replace fuel line, make sure you use the Yellow tygon fuel line, as it is the ONLY ethanol approved fuel line out there, many many shops have spools of the older stuff and they TRY and sell that to you first,
its NOT much more $$ and it will last a LOT longer, as ethanol fuel is hard on the older lines, it makes them dry faster and can even cause them to fail!
so if your replacing fuel line, use the better stuff for a few pennys more and be good for a LOT longer time!
its NOT much more $$ and it will last a LOT longer, as ethanol fuel is hard on the older lines, it makes them dry faster and can even cause them to fail!
so if your replacing fuel line, use the better stuff for a few pennys more and be good for a LOT longer time!
A good friend of mine is a small engine mechanic and has been for years. He still swears by Seafoam. I have always had good luck with Seafoam. But it sure seems to have gotten a bad rap on this site.
I'm with your bud grub. However, SeaFoam will not stabilize reformulated/ethanol blended gas. SeaFoam cannot prevent phaseout/phase separation, and never was it intended to do so. Star-Tron, and K-100 will prevent phase separation in blended fuels. For many years I used SeaFoam as a stabilizer in straight grade gas only, and gas/oil mixed, never a dirty, foul carb, or fuel tank.
agreed old abe, I too am in the small engine industry and have been for 25 years and things have definitely changed and some of the stabilizers and fuel additives fail to meet their mark with the fuels we have today, does not by any means make them a bad product just ineffective with todays fuels and there are better options that work well with ethanol fuels.
I'm with your bud grub. However, SeaFoam will not stabilize reformulated/ethanol blended gas. SeaFoam cannot prevent phaseout/phase separation, and never was it intended to do so. Star-Tron, and K-100 will prevent phase separation in blended fuels. For many years I used SeaFoam as a stabilizer in straight grade gas only, and gas/oil mixed, never a dirty, foul carb, or fuel tank.
G
G
Guest
There is no doubt fuels have changed a lot over the last 25 years. So have our toys. Carbs have given way to fuel injection systems with generally smaller openings. Although I have had good luck with Sea Foam I am going to try some Star Tron as it seems to be the latest and greatest. I always try to store my seasonal toys with non-oxy and I think that helps too. Also I store my stuff in a heated shop so there is not as much temperature related moisture to deal with. Leaving things outside in the summer in the blazing sun for months at a time isn't good either.
Right on all that grub!!! The fuels we have today, no matter straight grade gas, oxy/ethanol blended gas, straight grade premium diesel, or bio/diesel, all have a shelf life of 60 to 90 days max. I pre treat all stored fuels no matter the storage period intended with the proper stabilizing product. Power Service Clear Diesel is what I have found to be very good for stored diesel fuel, including bio diesel blends.