I pull 120psi on all 3 cylinders not sure on the mileage on the motor thats in there because its not the original but I have good compression I just dont think its tuned right, something aint right and its Pi**** me off!!
The compression in your cylinders is adequate. As long as each of the 3 cylinders are close to being the same psi's, you are fine there.
If I were a bettin' man, I'd say you don't have the chokes adjusted properly. There is a proper procedure for doing it. It's not as "easy" as you might think, though it's not that difficult either. Also, you need to make sure that your pilot jets (idle air screws) are adjusted properly, and that your throttle gaps are adjusted properly. (You can only do the throttle gap adjustments by removing the airbox.) There are TWO throttle gap adjustments. One is the cable pull adjustment, and the other is the initial baseline for the engine idle setting. Yes, both of these can be generically done with the right size drill bits.
To me, it sounds like you are like most guys, and have NO idea how to properly adjust carburetors on a triple. Now, don't get all upset, you are in the majority!
Besides, that's why mechanics can make a living, because of those out there that don't know or can't do it themselves. What you really need is a manual, so you can TEACH yourself how to do it. Seriously, that's how I learned! Nobody "taught me" personally. And, I'm (not to toot my own horn, but...) pretty darned good at tuning those triples now! Lots of practice, followed with some trial and error, and a LOT of PATIENCE! When you get angry, just walk away and come back later. Sometimes even the next day is necessary. Trying to do stuff when you are aggravated usually just leads to more problems, and more aggravation.
By the way... You CANNOT get away with "cleaning" or sanding the needles & seats on these carburetors! They will still leak, and possibly worse! You really do have to go and buy 3 brand new needle & seat kits and and install them in each carburetor to solve the problems. The new needles will have "viton" rubber tips on them. NEVER sand those!
Yes I know, that sucks. Yes, it's pricey (around $25 bucks per carb last time I did it, many years ago). Yes, you have to take the airbox out. Yes, you have to remove each carburetor, remove each carb bowl, and change EACH needle and seat. Doing one carb at a time would be wise, and I like to remove all three, starting from the Clutch (aka PTO) side first, and then do the Flywheel side (aka MAG) side first and work back towards the clutch side.
Another thing that can be wrong with your sled if it won't idle is that the crankshaft seals could be leaking. The PTO side one is pretty easy to check, but the MAG side is much harder to check, as you will have to figure out a way to get the motor running without the recoil on. Usually you can just wrap a rope around the flywheel recoil cage extension to start the motor up when the recoil assy has been removed. With the engine running, spray the seals with carburetor cleaner or better yet, ether (starting fluid) near the seals. If the engine rpm's go up, then you have a bad seal. If there is no change, that is good, and the seal is not leaking.
(Keep a fire extinguisher around in case you get sloppy and catch things on fire accidentally. This goes for any kind of work around flammable stuff.)
Look unfortunately, owning a snowmobile isn't for people without money. If you are "broke" and can't afford to get your sled fixed then either get a JOB to pay for it or sell your sled and take up a cheaper hobby. Just because you managed to buy an old sled for only $700 bucks today, that once cost $7,000 when it was new, doesn't mean that you will be able to afford to repair it when it needs work. And believe me, if you bought it really cheap, then it will need work! It's kind of like why a guy that makes only $20 grand a year has no business owning a Corvette. I don't care if it's a 20 or 30 year old clunker of a 'vette, it's still too danged expensive for an average Joe to have. Anyhow, I've managed to get off topic.
Unfortunately, carburator repairs and tuning is NOT for the inexperienced, and NOT for someone that thinks he can do it all in a 1/2 hour.
It takes TIME and PATIENCE and some understanding of what the heck you are doing. If you don't know, then buy a manual and TEACH yourself.
If you refuse to do that, then take it to a dealer and pay them to do it, and be over it.
I cannot afford to continue to waste MY time trying to teach people how to fix their sleds, unless you guys are going to start paying me for my time! Seriously! Most shops get $60 bucks an hour at a shop, which these days is the going rate here. I personally get $15/hour for advice and tips, beyond the realm of "free" advice that I literally "give away" here in these forums.
I can probably scan and e-mail you a ton of good info about how to tune your sled's carbs as well as the specs and info from my Factory Polaris Service Manual, which cost me well over $100, several years ago. The manual covers the vast majority of the triple sleds.
However, I'm not supplying the information for free, because it's a HUGE hassle and time eater.
Let me know if you are interested in the information, and then maybe we can work something out. Send me a PM if interested and we'll go from there.
Thanks.
