Help me get my XC 700 to boogy like it should

[wisangler]

Little bit of history info:

I purchased a 2003 Polaris XC 700 a couple weeks ago. It has a full SLP ceramic coated single exhaust (with a matching can) on it. It also has a boost bottle, but I'm not too sold on the bottle really doing much.

Anyway, it has a 1.5" track with 144 studs down the middle, so this thing hooks up and accelerates like nothing I've ever ridden before.

The first couple rides, I really watched the plugs to make sure it was jetted right because of the mods. The plugs are paper-bag brown like they should be, so I think I'm OK there.

All is good with the sled except on lake runs. I'm not much of a speed bandit but I DO NOT like watching 500s pass me by. The sled tops out at about 85.

To be honest, I haven't cleaned the valves myself yet because the previous owner said they were done at the end of last season. But, I don't think a dirty valve would be holding the sled back on the top without me noticing other performance issues.

When I look at the clutches, I can see that the top inch and a half (or so) of the primary clutch is not shined up like the rest of the clutch telling me that the belt is not using the entire clutch.

Now, I've never been one to change sleds away from the stock setup too much so I've never dealt with clutching.

Where should I start with this?

As always, thanks for the help.

 

[toddspolaris]

Little bit of history info:

I purchased a 2003 Polaris XC 700 a couple weeks ago. It has a full SLP ceramic coated single exhaust (with a matching can) on it. It also has a boost bottle, but I'm not too sold on the bottle really doing much.

Anyway, it has a 1.5" track with 144 studs down the middle, so this thing hooks up and accelerates like nothing I've ever ridden before.

The first couple rides, I really watched the plugs to make sure it was jetted right because of the mods. The plugs are paper-bag brown like they should be, so I think I'm OK there.

All is good with the sled except on lake runs. I'm not much of a speed bandit but I DO NOT like watching 500s pass me by. The sled tops out at about 85.

To be honest, I haven't cleaned the valves myself yet because the previous owner said they were done at the end of last season. But, I don't think a dirty valve would be holding the sled back on the top without me noticing other performance issues.

When I look at the clutches, I can see that the top inch and a half (or so) of the primary clutch is not shined up like the rest of the clutch telling me that the belt is not using the entire clutch.

Now, I've never been one to change sleds away from the stock setup too much so I've never dealt with clutching.

Where should I start with this?

As always, thanks for the help.

Had this exact same situation with an 02 xc sp 700 my buddy had bought. It had a fat boy pipe on it and we tried everything being that I have my own shop. Took the pipe off my other buddies 700 and guess what, the sled runs awesome, so we found the stock exhaust and put back on. Wow, what a huge difference. Now the sled freekin rocks, its also clutched with a Dalton clutch kit.

 

[wisangler]

Interesting...

I hope that's not the case because it didn't come with the stock exhaust. Thanks for the info!

 

[uncle_ed]

I would also be suspect of a gearing change if he has done other mods. You may be geared for tork and not top end.

 

[wisangler]

I'm assuming you are referring to the gears in the chaincase, correct?

I already looked what the stock gears should be and plan to check that. Thanks for the tip!

Jackshaft gear = SPKT,25T,3/4W,15 SPL,HV,PM

Driveshaft Gear = SPKT,40T,15T SPL,HYVO,PM

As long as I have 25 and 40 outside teeth on the gears, these are stock gears, correct?

 

[wisangler]

PS - The bummer part about working on this sled is that I keep my sleds 20 miles from home due to storage space.

It's times like this when I wish I kept them at home so I could work on it without it being a whole hoopla to bring it home and have it there.

Thanks again for tips.

 

[srt20]

Little bit of history info:

I purchased a 2003 Polaris XC 700 a couple weeks ago. It has a full SLP ceramic coated single exhaust (with a matching can) on it. It also has a boost bottle, but I'm not too sold on the bottle really doing much.

Anyway, it has a 1.5" track with 144 studs down the middle, so this thing hooks up and accelerates like nothing I've ever ridden before.

The first couple rides, I really watched the plugs to make sure it was jetted right because of the mods. The plugs are paper-bag brown like they should be, so I think I'm OK there.

All is good with the sled except on lake runs. I'm not much of a speed bandit but I DO NOT like watching 500s pass me by. The sled tops out at about 85.

To be honest, I haven't cleaned the valves myself yet because the previous owner said they were done at the end of last season. But, I don't think a dirty valve would be holding the sled back on the top without me noticing other performance issues.

When I look at the clutches, I can see that the top inch and a half (or so) of the primary clutch is not shined up like the rest of the clutch telling me that the belt is not using the entire clutch.

Now, I've never been one to change sleds away from the stock setup too much so I've never dealt with clutching.

Where should I start with this?

As always, thanks for the help.

Dirty exhaust valves/torn bellows will most certainly slow down top end.

If the top of your clutch is dirty, than when was the last time you cleaned the sheaves? Always keep the entire sheaves cleaned, and use a Sharpie to make a line to see how far up the belt runs.

What are the RPMs?
I would suspect gears, but it sounds like you have a bit of maintainence ahead of you.

 

[wisangler]

I've never cleaned the clutch on this machine. Only had it a few weeks. It wasn't until I got it up north this past weekend when I was able to really get the sled open.

When you mention the sharpie, are you drawing 1 line from the center of the clutch going out and allowing the belt to rub off the line?

Sorry if I seem to be digging for info, but I'm going to go through it this weekend when I make a trip to see my baby. Want to make sure I have everything with me to try.

Thanks!

 

[rp7x]

no top end

gearing will not hold the clutch back , that is steep gearing that will hold a weak motor back , check the valves first then check the secondary then primary , that sled shoud fly

 

[srt20]

I've never cleaned the clutch on this machine. Only had it a few weeks. It wasn't until I got it up north this past weekend when I was able to really get the sled open.

When you mention the sharpie, are you drawing 1 line from the center of the clutch going out and allowing the belt to rub off the line?

Sorry if I seem to be digging for info, but I'm going to go through it this weekend when I make a trip to see my baby. Want to make sure I have everything with me to try.

Thanks!

Yes on the sharpie. What are the RPMs at WOT at 85?

 

[tomxc700]

Check the clutching for broken springs and binding parts. Clean both of them really good then test.

 

[wisangler]

To be honest, I'm not sure what the RPMs are at when at WOT. I will check that out and report.

Thanks

 

[simonsr1]

To be honest, I'm not sure what the RPMs are at when at WOT. I will check that out and report.

Thanks

Find out what the engine top operating rpm is for that motor(this is were the peak power is), if your not hitting that mark, the past owner might have put in different weights or spring for a different elevation.

 

[snowbuff]

I have a buddy with the same sled. We put the SLP pipe on it too. That thing flies!! You have other issues. I have his jeeted with 430 mains, all other jetting is stock. That pipe should spin at 7900-8100 rpm and not move. I also installed a SLP clutch kit, but stock clutching should work fine. Like stated above, it sounds like clutch issues to me. Springs, bushings or buttons. Take both clutches apart and inspect. Replace both springs anyway.