IQ LXT 600 stud,carbide, questions? Any help or advice appreciated

2013lxtmn

New member
Hi Guys, new to this forum, lots of good info on here. I just bought a demo 2013 IQ LXT 600 and seem to spin the 1inch track a lot, so thinking about putting 144 1.25 studs in along with 8inch dual carbides, replacing the stock 2 single bars per ski with a single bar dual carbide from John Master.

Sounds like enough studs and carbide or does someone have a different setup that may work better? Mostly trail riding, some ditches that are part of the trail.

Also, the tunnel on this sled is smooth, no heat exchangers or anything to attach tunnel protectors. Anyone have tunnel protectors on theirs? If so, are they riveted on or something?

Thanks,
Dan
 

stormrider3

New member
IMO 144 is to many studs for trail rider. 96 studs down the center of the track, with the use of double backers works the best. 4 studs (2 double backers) every other window. Studs should be aprox. 3/8" above track
 

maddogg

Member
I agree with stormrider - I've got a 2011 and it pushes enough with no studs. You'll be happy with the 8" on the front. I dialed up the rear suspension on mine too. It was too soft for my big butt and the wife on it also.
 

2013lxtmn

New member
Thanks Guys! I am a little surprised though, Woodys calls for 162 studs for trail riding on the 136inch track. I thought 144 was bring that down a bit. I certainly want to right size it though. The studs already shipped, so I guess I will have some extra.

Any thoughts around the tunnel protectors? I pulled the seat and it looks like now the tank is in the way, have any of you removed the tank to rivet the protectors on or are you running without them?
 

2013lxtmn

New member
Yeah, the tunnel on the 2013 is smooth, no protectors or heat exchanger, not even a front heat exchanger. Apparently the kit is made up of a bent aluminum piece that follows the entire length of the tunnel. Sounds like a major pain in the @$$ to install too. You have to take of the seat, shroud around the handle bars etc, and the gas tank. Then drill holes in the tunnel and rivet the pieces on. Its got to be done though, that 1inch track is not satisfactory for me in any kind of loose snow or icy conditions.
 
Thanks Guys! I am a little surprised though, Woodys calls for 162 studs for trail riding on the 136inch track. I thought 144 was bring that down a bit. I certainly want to right size it though. The studs already shipped, so I guess I will have some extra.

Any thoughts around the tunnel protectors? I pulled the seat and it looks like now the tank is in the way, have any of you removed the tank to rivet the protectors on or are you running without them?

96 studs will be for a 121" track, double backers every other window. With your 136", it'll be closer to what you ordered (not sure exactly how many more rows that gives it). I would still stick with the 2 sets of double backers every other window. That's what I run and it hooks up great.

As for protectors, sorry cant help ya. My 2010 has exchangers that protectors slide over. The older Polaris sleds (90's) were the way you describe and you removed the seat and drilled holes and riveted the protectors on.
 

stormrider3

New member
Yeah, the tunnel on the 2013 is smooth, no protectors or heat exchanger, not even a front heat exchanger. Apparently the kit is made up of a bent aluminum piece that follows the entire length of the tunnel. Sounds like a major pain in the @$$ to install too. You have to take of the seat, shroud around the handle bars etc, and the gas tank. Then drill holes in the tunnel and rivet the pieces on. Its got to be done though, that 1inch track is not satisfactory for me in any kind of loose snow or icy conditions.

The tunnel is smooth and there are no heat exchangers = why do you need protection?
There is nothing the studs can harm
 

2013lxtmn

New member
Yeah, I will likely use all the 144 I ordered and put the 8inch dual carbides on the front.

There is decent room between the tunnel and the track, but imagine that if the studs come in contact with the tunnel it would chew up the aluminum pretty quick. With so much already invested in the machine, the extra $75 for the kit is cheap enough insurance. I found and ordered one off of ebay. Comes with everything I need. Just not looking forward to the install process.
 

whitedust

Well-known member
Thanks Guys! I am a little surprised though, Woodys calls for 162 studs for trail riding on the 136inch track. I thought 144 was bring that down a bit. I certainly want to right size it though. The studs already shipped, so I guess I will have some extra.

Any thoughts around the tunnel protectors? I pulled the seat and it looks like now the tank is in the way, have any of you removed the tank to rivet the protectors on or are you running without them?

Those numbers are VERY old school but Woody's wants to sell studs....go figure? lol Don't install all 144 just not necessary & only stay down the center of track stay away from hyfax edges no one installs studs over hyfax anymore. If you were lake racing I would agree but trail ridng way too many studs & studs cause problems. If you can install tunnel protectors do it if not not sure I would buy studs risk to high to tear tunnel apart.
 

2013lxtmn

New member
what do you think about 135? 2,3,2,3 pattern down the center? Keep the rest as backups.

I installed the John Masters 8inch double down dual carbides tonight, not bad. Pulled the skis off, drilled out the center holes etc, took about 30mins all together ( they have a nice write up with pics etc on their site on how to make the conversion ). testing them out tomorrow, hope they help. I was surprised to see how wore down my skis were because of the stock carbides. I think the new ones will drastically improve the ski life.

What do you run your track tension at? I currently have mine set with 10lbs on the track at 1 1/4 inches sag.
 
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