Motorcycle oils

fatdaddy

Member
Ok so I have a honda a suzuki and a yamaha dirt bikes, I've been using each manufacturs oil and now I want to switch to just one brand. When I look at the labels some say SF,SG,SJ,SH or MA jaso What does this mean?. I was thinking of going with Valvoline motorcycle it seens to work in the car and its only $5 a quart compared to $8 or $9 what do ya think
 

harvest1121

Well-known member
I used valvoline synthetic in my harley for the trans and oil changes. I have never had a problem shifts like my friends who uses Harley. I have 15 k and no problems. I used mobil gear lube in the trans.
 

fatdaddy

Member
they are all 4 strokes, I actually have some 10w-40 amsoil i need to use up. I just don't want to keep switching brands
 

eao

Active member
Use oil with a JASO MA/MA2 spec.

JASO stands for Japan Lubricating Oil Society

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

Though 4-cycle motorcycle/powersports engines may be considered more similar to automobile engines than 2-stroke motorcycle engines, they still have very different performance requirements. Historically, 4-stroke motorcycles have had problems with gear pitting wear in the transmissions and clutch slippage. In many cases, this can be directly attributed to the oil used. Most automotive engine oil is developed to minimize friction and maximize fuel economy. Since the oil for many 4-stroke motorcycles is circulated not only through the engine [as with an automobile], but also through the transmission and clutch, different characteristics are required of the oil. First, a certain amount of friction is necessary to prevent clutch slippage. Second, the oil needs to prevent wear and pitting in the gears of the transmission. These and other essential characteristics are addressed in the standards developed by JASO for 4-stroke engines.

The JASO 4-stroke classification is also divided into grades, MA, MA2 and MB. MB is lower friction oil, while MA is relatively higher friction oil. Other than friction, the JASO 4-stroke classification tests for five other physicochemical properties: sulfated ash, evaporative loss, foaming tendency, shear stability, and high temperature high shear viscosity (HTHS). Sulfated ash can cause pre-ignition if the oil is present in the combustion chamber. It can also contribute to deposits above the piston rings and subsequent valve leakage. Evaporative loss and foaming reduce the amount of lubrication and protection in the transmission, engine, and clutch. With less shear stability, oil loses its capability of retaining original viscosity resulting in increased metal-to-metal contact and wear. High temperature high shear viscosity tests provide viscosity characteristics and data under severe temperature and shear environments.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

M/C engines operate at much higher RPM's and temperatures than common automotive engines and often with much less oil. To protect the M?C engines under these operating conditions you need a specially formulated oil that delivers uncommon performance. I recommend AMSOIL.
 

fatdaddy

Member
eao,

I'm actually using Amsoil in two other bikes, but its around $10 a quart for a bike that maybe gets 400 miles a year on. I,m just trying to standardize using a good oil.
 

Pizza Man

New member
I HAVE A GOLDWING TRIKE.
MOST GOLDWING RIDERS, INCLUDING MYSELF, ARE USEING SHELL ROTELLA SYNTHETIC OIL(BLUE BOTTLE,BLACK CAP).
ABOUT $20.00 A GALLON.
IT WORKS GREAT AND MAKES SHIFTING VERY SMOOTH.
 

kpagel

Member
castrol GTX 10w 40 is a good oil you can get at the store it is fine for wet clutch systems(this info came directly from our motor builder that builds our outdoor national motocross motors)it is less expensive than the OEM
just my .02
 

yamahopper

New member
According to most owners manuals, 10w 40 is just fine for bikes. Just make sure it is sae 10w 40 and you change the oil when you should and you will be fine.
 

booondocker

New member
If you plan on keeping the bike for a long time, then buy the stuff recommended by the manufacturer. Having said that I have used automobile Mobil one in all my bikes 7, for 35 years and I have never had a clutch issue slippage or an engine failure. I don't put a bunch of miles on theme either, and change the oil once per year with the filter. I have no complaints.

But there is lots of information about the high tech lubricants and since you don't put a ton of miles on, I would look at something like Mobil One for Motorcycles which is very likely just like ammy oil, or other decent synthetic made for bikes. As I see it this is a trade off for bikes with oil clutching, in that you either sacrifice the pistons and crank or the clutch plates particularly if you are prone to cranking the throttle hard a bunch. If you use high slip oil you might have to put clutches in sooner...and if you use the low slip oil you might have to do a complete engine job sooner...pick your poison. So far I have had to do neither one. Maybe it's just me!
 
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