Need input for landscaping/building a tree barrier between neighbor

[james88]

In next year or two I plan on building a 30 foot tree barrier between my and my neighbor.

Balsam trees have been recommended, since deer do not eat them. Can anyone recommend trees or landscapers that specialize in this? I would like to see tree barrier pictures if possible to get some ideas. I am getting quotes of $379 for an 6 ft tree, and $529 for an 8 ft tree...., and $649 for a 10 ft tree....I figure I would need 6 trees, or if the price is right, 6 trees staggard, with 4 more offset between the 6...

 

[Midwest Player]

I like cedar trees for this. They grow really fast. Buy some 3 foot tall cedar trees and plant them your self. No need to pay those outrageous prices.https://savvygardening.com/best-trees-for-privacy/

 

[whitedust]

I saw a herd of deer on trail 15 n from IR munching on wild balsams so don’t think deer won’t eat balsams. Trees were being harvested in that area so the air was rich with pine scent and it was dead of winter so the deer herds came in a big way to eat. Deer get hungry and they become opportunistic and their Tastes change year to year.

 

[favoritos]

I'm curious to see what you find. Do you have a full sun location? Also wondering about space considerations? Assuming the 30' is the length of the row?

We have a small depth back yard that was nicely filled in with buckthorn and trash trees. It made a great barrier, but little usable yard.

We cleaned out the trash and left the oaks in 2003. It also left a perfect view of the neighbors.

The plan was to plant something that wouldn't take up too much yard, grow relatively fast, and take the summer shade/winter sun.
We used columnar arborvitae called Rushmore because it sorta covered the bases. The tallest we could find were roughly six foot and planted in 2004.

They did grow relatively fast with a narrow profile and held up to winter sun.
Current view.

They do have a couple weaknesses for our situation. The oaks are shading the ends of the row making the arborvitae grow slower and are less durable. This variety also struggles with wet heavy snow loads. It grows with a multi column trunk that is more prone to bending with snow. We initially tried using snow fence wrap, but quit as they grew too tall. Knocking heavy snow off does prevent collapse, but it is a job.

They do provide an improved privacy especially with the current height. We would also like to upgrade with something that would provide the same type of cover without the weaknesses.

 

[tpski]

The prices are very good. You pay a little more for the size, but it's worth it. It takes about 3 years for trees to start growing once they are planted. (Year one they sleep, Year 2 they creep, and Year 3 they leap!) Deer should stay away from the balsam. Deer love arborvitae! I've seen damage even on cedars when the winter is bad. The spacing should be 13' o.c. staggered. It'll take about 5-6 years to completely fill in. You can plant cheaper deciduous shrubs in between to temporarily fill in the gaps. (Viburnum, Honeysuckle, Forsythia). (I have a landscaping background)

I hope that helps

 

[mrbb]

well my 2 cents
things to consider before picking a tree/shrub or likes, is
what is the soil PH like, and how much sunlight or shade will the new plantings be getting
as NOT all things will grow in dirt that doesn't have the correct PH or soil type(sandy, rocky and so on)
nor will things grow is they get too much sun or too little
next is HOW wet is the area?

I am not a landscaper, but have a lot of experience farming and growing things

as for deer, I have seem them eat everything there claimed they WON"T< many times it comes down to food supply, if lots of other normal foods are about, they tend to leave landscaped tree's and shrubs alone, UNLESS there either better tasting .better quality of foods in area, or, you just get a few deer that have odd taste buds!
30+ yrs of managing many properties for deer hunting, has proven this to me time and time again
deer will eat anything if they find they like the taste of it
but they do normally have a desired prime food source they use mostly for there needs!

SO again, before offering a tree'shrub for as privacy like shield, more info is honestly needed, or you can be planting things that will not grow and just be wasting your time and $$$

- - - Updated - - -

also ask yourself, do you want to be having to maintain them, as in trimming every yr or other yr< do you want to be able to shape them
and then keep in mind most tree/shrubs and such also grow outwards and not just UP
meaning if you plant on edge of property line a LOT of the new planting's branches will end up on neighbors side, and in most states legally that land owner can cut as they want , which can kill things or prevent things from do much as a shield/fence privacy barrier!

so add that into planning before planting!

Privacy fence might be a option here too, 6 ft tall or taller if legally allowed!

I just did 250 ft of it, due to a new neighbor that moved in after old one passed away and is not very friendly,as old one was LOL!

 

[james88]

My neighbor and I are on a lake. The neighbor is to my left, and our houses are close to the lake. The distance to block visibility between our houses is around 30 feet. Think of two cottages close together. Our houses use to be cottages. We are good friends as well. So, the thinking is to get something there to block the view between our lots when we walk out of houses.

I had a guy plant some arbor vitae years ago (just 4 trees) , on both sides of my neighbors and they did not grow and or deer ate them. So I want to see pictures of what a landscaper can do before I commit more serious money to my project.

 

[mrbb]

costs like 9 bucks, to do a soil test, and that will tell you what the soil can grow better!
here is a link to one place that does them for you
BUT many states have soil conservation depts that will do them for FREE too
soils matter when it comes to growing anything!

https://www.plantbiologic.com/products/free-food-plot-soil-test

and then again, see how much sun light the area gets, and be honest with it, does it get 10 hrs a day 5, 3 and NOT just before leaves grow, think about how it is come full gren up

and then think about how WET the site gets and stays!

the key to anything growing right is, pretty simple
it needs the right nutrients in the soil, the right about of moisture and sunlight
NOT all things will tolerate to even grow, never mind strive in poor soil conditions and lack of or too much sunlight!


people cam sell you anything that they SEEN work , but without the real details, you can be wasting your time and money!
and just cause it worked for "X" person won;t mean it will work for you, as again soils matter!

back to deer< some species of three's and shrubs and such are more tolerant to browsing than others, but if there isn;t much better food about for them, they will destroy planted things, deer don't care what it costs you, there just trying to live!
best way to stop this is, fencing them off till there more mature and can handle the stress of the browsing!
nature of the beast, deer eat every day, and once they fond something they like, they will come back again and again till its gone!

countless city folks move into rural and country area's and find this out the costly way, planting things is like open salad bar to deer at times, and there eating on your dime!

 

[james88]

Picture

 

[mrbb]

looking at your pictures ,and NOT knowing for sure
it looks like its a rather shady area, it also looks like NOT much is growing there, due to all the exposed dirt
which right off says to me, its got soil issue's and the LOW sunlight getting to things, isn;'t helping!

so again, do yourself a favor, have a soil test done
then do some research on what type of tree/shrub you want to TRY and use, and see what soil they need, and how much sunlight they require to strive
or what ever you plant will end up dying and not growing!

soils can be adjusted and raised or lowered pending what is needed, but it takes TIME for things to work

an example is, (based on seems like lots of pine in area)
odds are the soil will have very low PH levels, and that is why not much will grow in it
ad din lots of shade and , growing anything will be an issue

if soil PH is LOW< it can be raised , but its NOT magic, it takes time to allow additives(lime and such) to actually work, and then stabilize and it will be needed to add some from time to time
and then there are nutrients that maybe needed to allow what ever you plant to grow(plants tree's all need nutrients to grow and stay alive and growing)

if your NOT willing to do a soil test, all you will be doing is gambling on your possible what ever your going to plant growing!
and could just be more wasted $$ and time on your part

as even with soil test results, it STILL takes time to FIX the soil to allow something to grow and stay growing and alive!

NO landscaper can READ soil levels without a soil test, all they will do is be guessing and spending YOUR money!

IF you want immediate privacy, a fence is the route to go

if you want to gamble on what to PLANT again
My suggestion will be [FONT=&quot]Canadian hemlock
[/FONT]There known to grow in many soil types and do OK<L in very shaded area's of poorer soils

BUT when you take a fast growing privacy tree like this and plant it in poor soil, it will NOT grow very fast, and it risks dying as well
as being dug up and re planted, is very stressful, and being placed in poorer soils, doesn't help it recover very well
and is why many plantings fail!

 

[james88]

You may be very correct on the soil issue. I had a landscaper plant a tree on other side of my lot and it did not grow, and is twisted at the head.
But some trees have grown naturally on the other side of my lot and by driveway....

 

[mrbb]

soils can change in a few feet
so, that could be why some areas things grow fine and others not
same with how much sun shine an area gets, how well it hold or drains moisture and so on!

pine needles dropping in an area tend to lower PH level very low making few things able to grow well near them, add in shade from the tree's and things get worse
this is why you never see anything growing under a pine tree, the longer/older a pine tree is, the more its area effects area;s around it!
I own property with lots of pine tree's
I also have tons of fruits trees and other things I have planted and grown for decades

but having soil sample done again is fast easy and cheap and can save you expense of GUESSING on what MIGHT work!

 

[james88]

I wonder if a fake hedge would work as well...anybody have these fake hedges?? Can probably bring them in the winter....

https://www.wayfair.com/decor-pillo...l-outdoor-or-indoor-hedge-set-w001417473.html

 

[mrbb]

they will fade with time and weather, and get brittle and fall apart if removed often!

and to many they kinda of cheesy

neighbor here had them and after a yr or two tore them down


OR??
maybe some artificial X mas tree's
being about a lake and all, you can maybe get away with having light on them all summer too HAHA!

 

[mrbb]

just another thought for you,. have you considered maybe a retaining wall ?
a big Heavy stone wall will be fast and can be some what cheap pending how fancy you want it
they sell pretty nice one's near me, there 3 ft tall, 6( or 3) ft long and 2 ft thick, and inter lock, they have them with faces on them like river rock and or bricks and other designs
and are about 65-75 bucks each, they do weight about 1500 lbs for small ones and about twice that on larger
but it would be a easy deal, level site, add a base gravel, place and done
never a worry about growing, dying or any real weather issue's

and should last a life time and then some!
they can be found on Craigslist some times, or face book market place( I have seen them as low as 35 bucks a block on the smaller one)
or possibly locally
they come in assorted sizes and styles as well as being pre cast built or cut lime stone, so prices can vary

but a decent landscaper contractor should know where to get them

but is another possible idea, so food for thought maybe?


a few quick vids as some examples

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WB9inEWhD6g


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QSpU82ENl1U

 

[chords]

Yeah you may have a problem growing anything in that soil. How about build up a large raised bed using some kind of rock/brick 3 ft ( or 4 ft )high by 3 ft wide by the length you need. Or line up a few of those galvanized feed troughs filled with some good growing soil with drain holes. That will give you an instant 3 ft height. Add some arborvitae or what ever and bango ya got instant 6 ft high coverage.

 

[james88]

The retaining wall is an interesting idea, any ideas on cost for a 30 foot wall ? ...could maybe do a berm as well....

 

[mrbb]

as fior cost it will come down to how close or far away the big blocks are too you and what the vendors ask for them
I again have seen them as cheap as 35 bucks and as much as 100 each,
so figure if you get the 5-6 ft long one's(they also vary in size based on who makes them)
most I have seen are 2 or 3 ft high
so, just do the math, 1 or two rows, pending size,
if you can get them say for 100 bucks each(top of the prices I have seen) and get 6 ft long one, 3 ft tall, you would need 10 blocks, so that's a grand
add in having a landscaper come or someone with a machine to both level site, add some gravel(gravel run 10 bucks a ton here NOT delivered, and delivered might run about 75?bucks
But I would think a willing to work landscaper would do something like this for well under 2 grand, as once site has a decent base and is level, , them blocks go together super fast and its a easy deal for them
most likely take them longer to unload and load the equipment than place them LOL

as for building a raised bed,!~
that can work pending what you plant, but if your planting any type op tree or most shrubs like, that will fail in time as the roots will need to grow and they will push out the bricks of a raised bed
seen it happen
roots are powerful things as they grow!, and most tree's will have roots needing to grow well pas the 4 ft from trunk over time
seen roots lift houses/foundations and such, so a small raise bed walls don;t hold a chance IMO!

 

[mrbb]

another option maybe could be stone gabion caged walls,(they can be filled with all sorts fo things to, from river rocks, to gravel to??) some think they look nicer, but they will cost more than a block wall

they also have some very fancy nice looking metal fence these days too, the price of things will be based on what materials used for the metal and the posts, but they do be fast quick privacy and long lasting low maintenance options

and also, the big blocks, are some times called BIN blocks, if your looking for them!

but pic's of rock gabion cages and metal fencing idea's

 

[james88]

I think a somewhat high retaining wall is the best option from what I can see with no plants, or maybe put a tree or two near the wall. I like a wall brick type that is "golden cedar yellow" looking, as I like cedar, the key now is how high can the wall go? Are walls restricted like height of fences? I would build it 12 feet high if I could....If you guys find any nice looking yellow honey cedar pics of walls, send them to me. I really appreciate all the suggestions so far.