Offseason clutch maintenance - Polaris Fusion 600

[Hoosier]

My Fusion has about 7200 miles on it, about 1/2 on a completely rebuilt engine. I plan to ride it one more season, possibly 2 (figure an additional 2500-3000 miles). I haven't touched the clutches other than having them aligned (shims on secondary) a while back and then adjusting deflection as needed. What maintenance should I do to it this off-season? I'm more concerned with keeping it reliable than trying to get every bit of performance out of it.

 

[xcr440]

Besides cleaining:

Check the rollers, that they still roll freely.

Check the weight bushings. They should not move from side to side.

A new clutch spring if you haven't replaced would be good.

 

[Hoosier]

Besides cleaining:

Check the rollers, that they still roll freely.

Check the weight bushings. They should not move from side to side.

A new clutch spring if you haven't replaced would be good.

Thanks - sounds like you are talking about the primary (I've never had a clutch apart). What about the secondary?

 

[xcr440]

Make sure the buttons are not worn too much, and that it moves freely.

Again, a new spring could be in order if never replaced. Take note of what hole it is in when you get it apart so you get it back in the right one.

 

[D.B. Cooper]

My Fusion has about 7200 miles on it, about 1/2 on a completely rebuilt engine. I plan to ride it one more season, possibly 2 (figure an additional 2500-3000 miles). I haven't touched the clutches other than having them aligned (shims on secondary) a while back and then adjusting deflection as needed. What maintenance should I do to it this off-season? I'm more concerned with keeping it reliable than trying to get every bit of performance out of it.

While you have the primary & secondary apart, LIGHTLY sand the aluminum sheaves with 180 grit sandpaper/emery cloth PERPENDICULAR to the way the belt rides, and wipe down with lacquer thinner or Brake-Clean.

I would Replace BOTH springs as well.

I have a thread titled TECH TIPS on here with a lot of tips you may find helpful, will bring it to the top for you

 

[Hoosier]

Thanks for the tips. I have two more questions:

1. Will I need a clutch puller to get the primary off or any special tools to change the springs on either? I have changed weights before, but did so on the machine.

2. The secondary obviously comes off easily - should the shaft it sits on be greased with anything or just kept dry?

 

[xcr440]

Thanks for the tips. I have two more questions:

1. Will I need a clutch puller to get the primary off or any special tools to change the springs on either? I have changed weights before, but did so on the machine.

2. The secondary obviously comes off easily - should the shaft it sits on be greased with anything or just kept dry?

1. Yes, if you want to remove it. It doesn't have to come off, unless you need to change/replace more than the weight bushings and spring.

2. I put just a little grease on it, so it moves freely.

 

[D.B. Cooper]

Thanks for the tips. I have two more questions:

1. Will I need a clutch puller to get the primary off or any special tools to change the springs on either? I have changed weights before, but did so on the machine.

2. The secondary obviously comes off easily - should the shaft it sits on be greased with anything or just kept dry?

If you don't have a puller, get a 3/4" fine thread bolt, tip the sled on its' side and fill the clutch bolt hole with water

wrap some Teflon tape around the bolt and remove it hydraulically

Spring compressor not required for spring replacement

VERY LIGHT grease on the jack-shaft, you don't want it flying off onto your belt/clutches

Spend $ 30 @ SLP for a clutch alignment tool

 

[Hoosier]

If you don't have a puller, get a 3/4" fine thread bolt, tip the sled on its' side and fill the clutch bolt hole with water

wrap some Teflon tape around the bolt and remove it hydraulically

Spring compressor not required for spring replacement

VERY LIGHT grease on the jack-shaft, you don't want it flying off onto your belt/clutches

Spend $ 30 @ SLP for a clutch alignment tool

It's been a few years so I can't remember for sure, but when I first got this sled, I had a heck of a time with blowing belts, so I looked into clutch alignment. If I remember right, because it has electric start, the SLP tool won't work. The Poo tool was much more expensive, and I dealer I've worked with adjusted it for free for me (took out some shims, I think), and I haven't had issues since then. I thought once the clutch was aligned, it's good to go - does it have to be checked periodically? Do the engines mounts wear or something like that such that the alignment gets out of whack?

 

[xcr440]

It's been a few years so I can't remember for sure, but when I first got this sled, I had a heck of a time with blowing belts, so I looked into clutch alignment. If I remember right, because it has electric start, the SLP tool won't work. The Poo tool was much more expensive, and I dealer I've worked with adjusted it for free for me (took out some shims, I think), and I haven't had issues since then. I thought once the clutch was aligned, it's good to go - does it have to be checked periodically? Do the engines mounts wear or something like that such that the alignment gets out of whack?

Should be good to go, but if a mount does go, yeah, it will throw it off. A new mount should put it back correctly.

 

[D.B. Cooper]

It's been a few years so I can't remember for sure, but when I first got this sled, I had a heck of a time with blowing belts, so I looked into clutch alignment. If I remember right, because it has electric start, the SLP tool won't work. The Poo tool was much more expensive, and I dealer I've worked with adjusted it for free for me (took out some shims, I think), and I haven't had issues since then. I thought once the clutch was aligned, it's good to go - does it have to be checked periodically? Do the engines mounts wear or something like that such that the alignment gets out of whack?

As the mounts 'wear' it changes slightly

the SLP tool will work if you cut the tabs off which interfere with the ring gear on the clutch

the POLARIS tool (GOLD TOOL ON TOP in the pic) has approx .075" of "twist" built into it, so be aware of that

the SLP tool (Below the gold POLARIS tool in the pic) is "straight"

Hope this helps

 

[Hoosier]

Just to follow up on this thread, I had both clutches rebuilt by Goodwin performance - good I did, as I was on borrowed time apparently. Around turkey-day I'll get the sled out and re-install them.

 

[Snirtdawg]

You went to the best place for rebuilding clutches. Goodwin rocks!