Polaris Frontier 4 stroke starter

bobsledder

New member
My starter worked fine last season however when I was prepping for this season it was stuck. I took it out and the local shop that does out starter work said it was not worth fixing. A new aftermarket was $90.00 so they ordered it. Is there any thing special about putting it back in. I took the bolts out and pried it out horever the bendix must stay in the sled as all that came out is the spline shaft. From the looks of the housing for the drive motor that is all that comes out that hole. There were 2 thrust washers also and all I could figure is that they "shim" the shaft for the mesh of the gears. Any thoughts would be welcome.
Thanks
Bob
 

edmarino

New member
I also have a Polaris Frontier and yes the starter motor just comes out without the bendex gear and the washers, space the gear for alignment. But since you have it apart check the bendex gear for excesive play in the bushing on the inner side of the gear. The main housing. This is why I had to take mine apart. The bushing wore out and the gear was jumping out of mesh with the ring gear. Polaris does not sell a replacement bushing, had to have one made to replace it . Of course to look at this you have to take the other side of the engine apart ie recoil starter mech.
 
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bobsledder

New member
Thanks

I stoped by our replare place today and looked at my old starter . The armature shorted out due to my trying to start the engine. The bearing on the drive coming out is absolotly rusted dead stuck. How difficult is takeing the recoil starter housing off?
Bob
 

edmarino

New member
To bobsleder
To get the recoil starter out you have to take the muffler system out thats the hardest part the rest is realitively easy. Just a couple (about 6) screws holding the recoil assembly to engine. It all comes off in one piece. You do not have to remove the coolant hose. You may have to remove the housing extention but that is a couple of screws also. Then you can see the bendex drive gear sitting on top of the ring gear. It has been awhile since I did this so I may be a bit cloudy on the details but I don't remember it being difficult at all.
 

bobsledder

New member
Good people!

EDMARINO

Thanks for the insight! This site rocks. Do you still have your Fronteer? I replaced my 01 500 classic (now my backup)that has 7000 miles with the Frontier. I could ride it forever!
Bob
 

edmarino

New member
To Bobsleder
Yes, I still have my Frontier,it has about 8500 miles on it now, my wife rides it and is very happy with it. It is not the fastest sled but good enought for the trails we like to ride. I hope it last until we can't ride any more. We are now both in our seventies and don't need rockets any more. The main reason I bought the sled was because it had the M 10 suspention system in it. I had an M 10 system in my previous sled and thought it was great. I put an M 10 air suspention system into my Vector just last year, the air bags bleed out air over time so you have to check them ocassionly. Easy to reset.
 
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bobsledder

New member
moisture

I took the recoil off and there was alot of moisture in the housing. There is some rust on the ring gear and fly wheel and the bearing in the starter drive was rusted stuck. There was no gasket between the recoil and housing, I was going to use some silicone to make a better seal. Any thoughts?
Bob
 

edmarino

New member
Hi Bob
If I remember right I had water in mine and I drilled a hole in the bottom of the housing extention to let it out. Sealing the recoil to the housing won't do much because of the hole that the rope goes thru. Seems to me Polaris screwed up the design on the recoil housing having the rope pointing straight up. Not useful at all. Just a way to let snow in. The engine was orginially designed to be used on ATV's ,which a lot of them were. Hence the recoil was built pointing up, practical on ATV not on snowmobile. To much trouble for them to redesign I guess. The sled only had a two year production life 03 & 04. Nobody liked the sled because it was to slow. It was orginially designed for Yellowstone Park were the speed limit was 45 MPH. Since the rope pull is useless it may be worth while to remove rope and seal hole. Or replace recoil with flat alum plate. I haven't had trouble since I drilled hole in bottom.
 

hednup2

Member
Frontier Classics

OMG ! I thought I was the only one on this website with these sleds. I've done nothing but throw money at these things I've got 2, 2004's. Replaced - drive axles on both, lifters in one, both batteries at the tune of $105.00 ea cuz their not your typical run of the mill batteries, they have to supply a constant 12 volts at start up so the computer will let the injectors and magnitos work, when the fuel pump goes out it'll cost ya $350.00 to replace you can't buy just the pump you have to replace pump, regulator and indicator. They eat voltage modulators like candy at a cost of $125.00 each and that's just doing the work myself imagine what the cost would be if I had to rely on a dealer to do repairs, repair manual if you can find one cost $60.00 but it's worth it's weight in gold. I cringe everytime the temp drops in the teens cuz if you don't plug in the block heater and have a battery tender hooked up to it they won't start, The engine design is both pistons revolve together instead of independent of each other, that's why they don't have the power like the others do, By the way have you tried starting em with the ripcord yet? My dealer and I are kinda confused as to why Polaris even put that on these sleds (no can do) you'll rip your arm off before it turns over. Research tells me their made for and used out west around Yellowstone area to appease the air quality guru's out there to keep the park open to the sledders, but On the other hand I like the 22 miles per gal of gas, the quietness & lack of smoke the engine puts out, the M-10 suspension is superb, pick em with 96 studs going down the middle, replace the crap acutrac carbides with a pair of Berstrom single carbides in the 6 inch range & you got a sled that can hold it's own going fast in turns. Were both over 50's and trail ride only, we have fun doing 35 to 40 with a few 60 mph's bursts with 72 mph's the fastest we ever got em to go. Good luck with your sleds and enjoy.
 

edmarino

New member
To hednup2
What did you do to your sleds to get them to go over 55 MPH. Thats the best I ever got from mine. Not complaining, just curious? I had some of the probelms you discribed. Had an 03 that would not start below 35 degrees because the electrical system would not engage the ignition module, dealer did not know what to do with it. I left it with him cause the value of the sled was less then the bill he was getting ready to give me for working on sled and not solving the problem. It had almost 10,000 miles on it at the time. Can't really complain about that. The motor was still strong when you got it to run. I was ready for some thing different by then anyway bought a Yamaha.
 

hednup2

Member
Ed

Do nothing but run premo gas and ISO alchol in the motor, Ours have a block heater and when it gets cold I plug them in, I use battery tenders whenever the sleds aren't being used including summer storage, I guess polaris musta found out they screwed up on the first models they made and changed some of the designs. I was reading about the water build up in the starter cowl that you had but looking at mine the recoil assembly is all enclosed with a rubber stopper that seals off the rope entry hole and it can be removed without taking anything off to get to it. If I would have done my home work before I bought (as these are my first purchase of sleds ever) instead of buying what my friend bought I would've passed on this model and got something else either a different polaris model or another brand entirely. Like you I'm stuck with em won't be able to trade or resell, gonna retire soon, got property up in the northwoods of Wisconsin so I'll use them as extras for when we have company.
 

edmarino

New member
To Hednup2
Unfortunitly the early feed back on the sled only said they were slow, none of the problems were ever discussed because they did not show up until after Polaris stopped production.The reason they stopped production was because they were slow and they changed to the Weber 4 stroke engine which was a lot faster and could be supercharged, which made it a fast sled. I had looked at one of them an determined it was an egineering nightmare,so I stayed far away from it. Yamaha 4 strokes were out an getting rave reviews the only problem with them was there suspention system had not been updated until 05 & 06,better but not equal to an M10.
 

bobsledder

New member
The voltage modulater thing I can agree with as I ride with dim lights. So far this starter issue is the only problem. It starts no mater how cold and I get about 65 MPH for top speed, it just takes a long time to get there. The quiet 20 MPG and M10 ride is what attracted me to this sled. Now that I talked about how much I like it - It will prolly leave me stranded in the UP 500 miles from the truck. lol
 

hednup2

Member
bobsledder

Look on the load shed module for a Brown/Yellow wire, it goes to the headlight/tailight. Go to auto parts store and get a spool of Black wire not the brown (black is smaller gauge) cut the brown/yellow wire, splice the end that goes to the wiring harness, (do not splice wire to tag end coming from loadshed module) you can either tape it or put wire connectors like I did on it, hook the other end of black wire to the ground that's directly across from the loadshed. If you have a volt meter handy take out rightside low beam bulb and check voltage should be around 11.5 volts (loadshed keeps it to 3.3volts). What a difference the brightness of the headlights make, I'm thinking about doing that with the hand/thumb warmers, the wire for them is the brown/red coming out out module. Like I was telling Edmarino I use battery tenders when not using the sleds and the block heaters if you have them when temps get colder than 20 degrees.
 

hednup2

Member
bobsledder

No everything works the same, for some reason they step the ground down in the loadshed module, it goes in at 100% then reduces to 30% coming out going to the lights and that's where you get the dim light syndrome. For me I'd rather have bright lights at night going down a trail than dim ones hit the high beams and everything is clearly seen but that's just me.
 

bobsledder

New member
module

Could you discribe the load shed module and where I would locate it? We rode 27 miles tonight and I need to do something for more light.
Thanks
Bob
 

edmarino

New member
To bobsledder
The load shed module is supposed to be located on front side of battery compartment
To Hednup2
If you cut the wire to hook up alternate ground . What did you do with the wire you cut. Just dead end it. Your narrative is not clear to me. Polaris wiring diagram shows two wires brn/y at load shed one going to tail light and one going to head lights. I am assuming you cut the one to head lights or did you cut both.
 
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