I put new wearbars on the Fusion last weekend and measured the alignment while I was at it. Looks like I have about 1/4" of toe-IN. A manual I was looking at said it should be between 0 and 5/32" of toe-OUT. I figured I was within the margin of error and decided not to mess with it. Does that make sense or will that amount of Toe-IN really affect the sled? I can't see how it could but I don't know much about this stuff.
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Polaris Toe-in/Toe-out
- Thread starter Hoosier
- Start date
polarisrider1
New member
You do not want toe in. set sled to 1/4" toe out if you want it to steer. Toe in really does affect your sled. Polaris has enough slop in steering that I actually set at 1/4 to 1/2 inch toe out.
polarisrider1
New member
1/4 " toe out. You do not want toe in. it does affect steering alot. Since Polaris has a bit of slop in steering I set mine at 1/4 to 1/2 inch toe out for best results.
G
G
Guest
You never want ANY toe in on any sled. Polaris isn't the only mfg with sloppy steering. 1/4 to 1/2 is a good place for any sled.
probably the best way to set toe is to run a straight edge along the track so it sticks out at least 10" past the ski mounting bolt, then measure to the ski to set the toe on that ski, then measure to the other ski and set the toe. This ensures that the skiis are aligned to the track. I believe later Polaris toe out is 1/8" to 1/4". The measurements on Polaris are taken 10" in front of and 10" behind the ski mounting bolt.
anonomoose
New member
If your sled darts a lot, this may very well be the reason.
First I square the handle bars up by measuring to a known point on the back of the sled, such as the center of the flap. This gives true alignment of the handle bars. Then I put a drywall square on the track (any long straight edge will work) and extend it out beyond the front of the skis on both sides. Often this gives me one ski that is not straight.
Once I find the ski that is mis-aligned, I crank in or out til the wear bar is exactly straight, with neither toe in or out. I wiggle the handle bars a bit and check a second or third time.
While I think that it is better to have toe out than in, neither one helps with darting. Since I have been doin this on my Polaris and cat sleds, it reduces darting to a minimum.
I leave the nut on the inside of the strut loose and only tighten the outer nut to prevent the tie-rod from moving. Then it is pretty easy to adjust if some dummy hits something and knocks it out of alignment again.
First I square the handle bars up by measuring to a known point on the back of the sled, such as the center of the flap. This gives true alignment of the handle bars. Then I put a drywall square on the track (any long straight edge will work) and extend it out beyond the front of the skis on both sides. Often this gives me one ski that is not straight.
Once I find the ski that is mis-aligned, I crank in or out til the wear bar is exactly straight, with neither toe in or out. I wiggle the handle bars a bit and check a second or third time.
While I think that it is better to have toe out than in, neither one helps with darting. Since I have been doin this on my Polaris and cat sleds, it reduces darting to a minimum.
I leave the nut on the inside of the strut loose and only tighten the outer nut to prevent the tie-rod from moving. Then it is pretty easy to adjust if some dummy hits something and knocks it out of alignment again.
G
G
Guest
If you use the track and a straightedge to check ski alignment first make certain the track itself is in alignment.
that's all you need to check. Look through the track windows behind the sled. If you can see the hyfax and it's spaced evenly in the window (or the rail), then you are good. If it's not, you have to adjust the rear axel along the slide point. Moving the boggy wheel backwards on a side will make the track slide more to the opposite side, if you move it forward, the track will move toward that side. It doesn't take much if you have to adjust.