Polaris XLT loading up, not able to idle

snowlover

New member
I have a 1994 Polaris XLT SP with a 1996 XCR 600 motor that I dropped in it a couple years ago that just started having some idling issues. When it is cold it idles fine between 1500-2000 rpm but once ridden awhile and warmed up it will not idle, pretty much dies immediately. It will then load up with fuel and foul a plug, not always on the same cylinder. I used to know these tripples like the back of my hand but have forgotten how to correct some of these issues. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
 

rmk4ever

New member
Go thru the carbs, sounds like one of the choke plunger's is sticking. And / or the needle & seats are gone & continue to "dump" to much fuel. Idle mode is mostly in the "pilot" jets my guess is that there clogged.:D
 
I spent hours upon hours on a triple once chased everything I could think of it started hard but would idle ok but as soon as the motor needed to do any work it would load up and die. I took it in to get repaired (I gave up) The problem was the carbs were out of sync once they corrected the problem it ran like a top.
 

dew69

New member
I had a 96 xlt that did the same thing. Cleaned the carbs and then made sure they were in sync. After this, ran like a champ!
 

doomsman

New member
Does the sled have a triple fuel pump?
If so it may be starting to leak and that would affect all cylinders.
Pull the pulse line and check for fuel.
 

racerx

Active member
yep carbs will most likely be the issue. I also had a few tough years with a 96 xlt sled with idling/starting until I cleaned & sync'd them all and replaced the needle/seats, it was like night and day and barely had to use the choke after that. I also had an issue once in Canada where I broke the main jet needle twice in one weekend and it turned out that there was a bunch of carbs that had the slide bore machined at an slight angle and over time it got worse and was cocking the slide and putting pressure on the needle causing it to break.
 

snowlover

New member
I took apart the carbs, cleaned them, there was nothing in them. Clean the choke plungers, etc, little corrosion, nothing bad. Sychned the carbs, they were way off. I just did this last year, unbelievable how fast these go out. When I used to run all tripples in the 90's I remember having to do this throughout the season. I have to run it today and see what happens.

Thanks-
 

snowlover

New member
Took it out for a quick ride...50 miles and it ran good to start then started to run like crap. It idles fine now but it was loading up, somestimes dropping a cylinder, backfiring and blowing out the air box. Plugs look good. I am thinking now it is the needles and seats so time to change those and see if that helps.
 

snootbiscuit

New member
I would change the inlet needles and seats, like you said. strange that you couldnt keep it synched? usually if there synched, they stay synched.best to use a synch tool also. and, if you ever do take carbs off again, mark the cables and carbs to their respective cyl. and they'll be very close or spot on when reassembled.
 

snowlover

New member
I take the carbs off one at a time, clean them one at a time, line them up in order and they go back to the same cylinder. Very meticulous on how I go through the carbs. I am going to pull the needles and seats out and get some new ones today. Hoping that works. I synch the carbs with drill bits at idle then a machine dowel at half throttle then check idle again and back to half throttle and adjust idle again accordinly. Has always worked in the past. My guess is that the needles and seats have never been changed in this motor. This is the 3rd year I have had it in this sled and I have not changed them yet.
 
Take off your drive belt and turn the clutch over slowly. See if you can feel anything funny. Sounds to me like a crank bearing is going.
 

snowlover

New member
I was thinking the same thing about the crank bearings. Any other way to tell besides tearing it all apart? I hate to stick anymore money into it than I have to.

Thanks
 

squat

New member
I spent hours upon hours on a triple once chased everything I could think of it started hard but would idle ok but as soon as the motor needed to do any work it would load up and die. I took it in to get repaired (I gave up) The problem was the carbs were out of sync once they corrected the problem it ran like a top.

Skeeter is right. I had the 96 600 XCR SP. I had to sync the carbs every year. Sometimes 2 tines a year.
 

squat

New member
I was thinking the same thing about the crank bearings. Any other way to tell besides tearing it all apart? I hate to stick anymore money into it than I have to.

Thanks

While its running spray starting fluid on the bearing. If it speeds up its bad.
 

Sno-Bandit Gary

New member
If after taking care of all of the carb stuff try the voltage regulator module. I had a similiar problem. As long as the RPM's were up it was fine. As soon as it idled down it ran like crap. Cheap replacement part on that sled.
 

redrat75

New member
One other thing to check is the ground bar between the coils. I had the same problem on my 1998 XCR 600 did all the carbs and had the same problem. I found that there was a crack in the ground bar between the coils. It would run great when it was cold and at high RPM's it was fine but after 20 miles or so it would not idle. I replaced the ground bar and all good after that.
 
While its running spray starting fluid on the bearing. If it speeds up its bad.

That will test the seal not the bearing. I just put a pto bearing in a 95 XLT Touring yesterday and the seal was on its way out but wasn't leaking yet. Like I said sometimes you can turn the clutch slowly by hand and feel a bad bearing. Not always but its worth a try.
 

snowlover

New member
I turned the clutch and could not feel or hear anything. Do I have to break down the entire motor to replace the bearing? I had a 95 and 96 xcr that both had 8000 miles with no issues but this one has me stumped.
 
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