Shorestation Winch Wobble Going Down
- Thread starter whitedust
- Start date
My son-in-law has his shorestation here too. I can see what’s happening my wheel runs away from the brake disk going down while his stays tight to the brake. I’ve been discussing the problem with a lot of people and wobble is a common problem. I’ve been instructed to put the lift all the way down then take the wheel off the shaft hold shafe with visegrips to keep from spinning. Then I’m supposed to clean the shaft , Emory cloth the brake of any glaze remount wheel tight to gear and brake and wobble suppose to be gone. So far Pb blasted everything not brake disk and I’ll let it soak a bit then disassemble and hope problem is cured. Anybody ever do this procedure? If so hints or tweaks you can advise?
We'd like to find a solution for that too. We have the older version that you have to run a power cord out too. I hate having power out over the water.
Yep I don’t like 120v out in water either so use 12v friction drive run off boat battery. I do agree the OEM solar solution is price prohibitive imo. My son in law picked up an OEM friction drive for $200 and I bought new for $1000. We will see if his used works good soon. The photo he sent look like it was brand new. I do have 120v outlet on the shoreline for lake pump but wouldn’t bring it out to the pier.
We bought a lift boss, battery, and solar panel about 2 years ago for around $1300 we have the wired remote, install was pretty simple.
https://shopshoremaster.com/12-24v-lift-boss-boat-lift-motor/
The lift itself at the shaft still has the 'wobble' but I think it is mainly because people have pushed up and pulled down on the lift wheel when moving it in the past. The lift boss still does the job and it sure beats cranking the wheel by hand even with a smaller boat.
https://shopshoremaster.com/12-24v-lift-boss-boat-lift-motor/
The lift itself at the shaft still has the 'wobble' but I think it is mainly because people have pushed up and pulled down on the lift wheel when moving it in the past. The lift boss still does the job and it sure beats cranking the wheel by hand even with a smaller boat.
yamadooed
Active member
These guys are mom and pop operation so I'm sure they maybe able to help with your Weeble Wobble... http://hustlersport.com/ They also sell both low and high volt motors to upgrade too...
wiharley02
Active member
If the "wobble" is caused by the faulty brake disc mechanism (the friction disc that prevents the hoist from running away on the way down), an electric friction wheel drive WON'T fix the problem. The friction disc still needs to be functioning properly for the electric friction drive to work.
If the winch is "jumpy" going down, but smooth going up, it's probably the brake disk and a good cleaning (maybe disk replacement) as mentioned above should help. If the handwheel shaft is sloppy (wobbly) in its bearings/bushings that's a different story. Or it could just be the handwheel itself has the bore worn out, and is a sloppy fit on the input shaft. If I remember right, the bore of the handwheel is threaded onto the winch input shaft, that's part of how it opens and closes onto the friction disc. The threads could be worn. There probably should also should be a compression spring near the outside of the handwheel attachment to the input shaft.
From the outside in: Hex head screw, washer, compression spring under the washer, then handwheel, then onto the input shaft, with the brake disc and a thrust washer along with an external toothed thrust washer, behind the handwheel. The spring might have been plated steel when new, but over the years they can rust, break, fall off, etc.
I think the principle of operation is:
Going up, the handwheel should thread towards the winch and pinch and lock the brake to grab the toothed washer, for a positive drive input to the winch shaft all the way up, clicking the ratchet/pawl all the way up.
Going down, the handwheel slightly unthreads away from the winch, letting the brake go slightly loose and the toothed washer stays stationary against the pawl, and if the lift/winch tries to run down faster than you are spinning the hand wheel, the hand wheel/input shaft threads close back up and put pressure on the brake disk and the toothed washer (against the pawl), and the dropping load stops until your handwheel input is faster than the winch falling (loosening the brake disc again.)
I got lucky when I found my 5000 lb boat lift on craigslist, it was already set-up with 12 volt direct drive from the manufacturer, with a solar panel. All I had to add was a solar panel charge controller so the solar panel didn't "overcook" my new battery. $20 for a 5-45 watt Battery Tender solar controller, sits inside the battery box. The direct drive is a different concept, no brake disc, no external wheel. It's a worm drive input which by it's own principle of operation cannot run away from the input. No clicking noise up or down.
If the winch is "jumpy" going down, but smooth going up, it's probably the brake disk and a good cleaning (maybe disk replacement) as mentioned above should help. If the handwheel shaft is sloppy (wobbly) in its bearings/bushings that's a different story. Or it could just be the handwheel itself has the bore worn out, and is a sloppy fit on the input shaft. If I remember right, the bore of the handwheel is threaded onto the winch input shaft, that's part of how it opens and closes onto the friction disc. The threads could be worn. There probably should also should be a compression spring near the outside of the handwheel attachment to the input shaft.
From the outside in: Hex head screw, washer, compression spring under the washer, then handwheel, then onto the input shaft, with the brake disc and a thrust washer along with an external toothed thrust washer, behind the handwheel. The spring might have been plated steel when new, but over the years they can rust, break, fall off, etc.
I think the principle of operation is:
Going up, the handwheel should thread towards the winch and pinch and lock the brake to grab the toothed washer, for a positive drive input to the winch shaft all the way up, clicking the ratchet/pawl all the way up.
Going down, the handwheel slightly unthreads away from the winch, letting the brake go slightly loose and the toothed washer stays stationary against the pawl, and if the lift/winch tries to run down faster than you are spinning the hand wheel, the hand wheel/input shaft threads close back up and put pressure on the brake disk and the toothed washer (against the pawl), and the dropping load stops until your handwheel input is faster than the winch falling (loosening the brake disc again.)
I got lucky when I found my 5000 lb boat lift on craigslist, it was already set-up with 12 volt direct drive from the manufacturer, with a solar panel. All I had to add was a solar panel charge controller so the solar panel didn't "overcook" my new battery. $20 for a 5-45 watt Battery Tender solar controller, sits inside the battery box. The direct drive is a different concept, no brake disc, no external wheel. It's a worm drive input which by it's own principle of operation cannot run away from the input. No clicking noise up or down.