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ski-doo Rev XP chassis question
- Thread starter snipes517
- Start date
ya thats what ive found so far also and that was a relief, but i was curious about something else, the shock shaft also got bent, it was a pretty good hiit, and i was just wondering if that was connected to the frame cause if whatever that is connected to is bent, is there a replacement for that or can it be bent back?
mjkaliszak
New member
I replaced my S & E mods. As Salmonbum said the "S" is not a big deal . HOWEVER.... in most cases I heard about and guys that I spoke with on DT & my personal experience the "E" mod takes some impact forces when a crash occurs. Look at your side braces of your " E ". They may be bowed. True damage will not reveal itself until you start to take everything off. IE: A-arms damage will not be seen until you get to bolt them back on and " E " mod damage will start to unbuckle itself as the S mod & a-arms come off and as you remove your rivets . I so know of a budd that had straightened some of his components, he looked up the melt & tempering temps of cast aluminum and straightened when things were heated. BUT... he told me that he had trouble when it came clutch alignment time and had to machine out his motor mounts to get the alignment close. IMO ( of course ) you are better off replacing with new anything suspect. The steering support brace ( i think that's what it called ) comes on the S mod, I used SS 6mm bolts & nylocs. I bought black big head rivets from Bryke racing .com for .07 cents a piece, beats the dealers .99 by a mile ! Get yourself a pnuematic air chisel for Stavex rivet removal, and be preparred to ( very important ) take pictures. I did mine in 14 steps, 3 parts. It took me a while. I was able to get mine without removing the motor but I had it on a sled lift and slung the motor with my hoist . The last couple of rivets are a ( B####) up by the heat exchanger, don't want to slip with the air chisel on those. I would be surprised if just your " S "was damaged alone. 1 more thing , check your heim -ball joints for slop, ther seem to wear out and after a hit ??? who knows. Additionally if you don't take pictures , what will happen is (A) the job will probably turn out to be the S & E , (B) you will forget the routing of all your harnesses & lines upon re-assembly. I want to say your XP alignment specs for your clutches are ( Z-X-Y ) 21mm , 36mm, 39mm ( 36 + 3 for torque & twist ) . There is a member on here PITGRUNT that had offered his help to me , he may be able to help with additional info if you need. There are some good posts on DT about this repair. To sum it up, I did this without the manual, the clutch alignment part you will need to get a straight bar for from BRP ( about $27 ) and it took me 3 days. It is better being done by yourself, that way you know it's right. If you don't replace everything that is tweaked, it will cause you alignment issuse at the least , and I would find it hard to believe that any DEALERS wrench will put the effort to make things perfect like ( you - me a personal owner ) would. Furthermore since I'm... NOT short on words today... I heard ... BRP's intention when changing from the " NUN " chassis to this one was to make it more modular, so when some thing was damaged it could be easily replaced, the issue I found was that too much energy is transferred to the E when a crash occurs and it ends up taking out both S & E , and if you hit a a-arm, they will be tweaked also. Even though they look OK , you won't know until you go to re-install them.
Think I'm only posting once today. My rock is getting overheated just thinking about this stuff.
Think I'm only posting once today. My rock is getting overheated just thinking about this stuff.
Last edited:
thanks for the inputs guys, looked over the sled and looked up the parts and decided that its looking like im going to need a right upper and lower a arms, S and E module, new shock shaft from goodwinns, and possibly a new front member of the frame unless i can bend it back and make it right, should run me about 700-1000 i think, thank god its not totaled!!
mjkaliszak
New member
My hit was in the center, bailed out at 60. The clutch alignment is very important and ( IMO ) will need aligned . Once you get into the job you will see what I mean, the components all interface with each other. With the size of the job why wouldn't you want to ??? That clutch alignment is critical to the transmittance of power, belt wear, clutch temps, which are already HOT on the TRAVll 's.