ski pressure
- Thread starter race9696
- Start date
What weight do you have the rear shock set at? It should be set for your weight without gear as a starting point. If you want more pressure on the skis turn the collar on the shock clockwise which will show a heavier weight on the guage provided. I experienced the same thing with mine and I am now running ten pounds over my weight. I dont know if anyone has tried putting more preload on the front shocks, but this worked on the dragon I used to own.
I agree, get rid of the doolys. Snow and ice get trapped between the two carbides and then it's like you have 2 X 4's for carbides. I know it's an investment, but seperate carbides work better. I just went through this with my sled. A single carbide in the center, and one on the outer edge works better. (Pilot 5.7 ski) As for studs, they will make it push a little more because of the grip the track is gonna have, but not a big deal once you're set up right. I'm not familiar with the Polaris suspension to offer much other help, but I would suggest going another route of carbide(s)
arcticgeorge
New member
If the Dooly's trick doesnt work....
The proper way to put more pressure on your skis is to tighten your front limiter strap located in the front of the rear skid by a notch or two.
The proper way to put more pressure on your skis is to tighten your front limiter strap located in the front of the rear skid by a notch or two.
motor_slut
New member
Read your owners manual
snow_monkey
New member
My advice would be to make the changes 1 at a time. After each adjustment ride the sled 20 to 30 miles. You have made a big investment take your time and make sure you verify all the changes. I added 1 turn to the front springs and noticed the change right away. I cranked up my rear spring to prevent bottoming and the ride is much worse as the trail conditions deteriorate. I am not so sure I would play with the limiter strap until you have exhausted other options. I belive you may lose some travel tightening up that strap, someone else will have to chime in on that. Find the polaris website and chat with current owners. I am sure they are going through the same steps. Also if it is pushing now it will push worse when you add studs. Personally I would only run studs down the center but that is just my opinion.
You're correct on the limiter strap. It will give you less travel. The first thing I would do is tighten the front springs. Give them a turn or two and ride it.
I'm not sure if that Rush suspension has a spring/shock toward the front. You can tighten that too and it may help.
I don't think the carbides are the problem but they could be. I would think your rear end would be swinging if you have too much carbide. However the idea of ice being in the doolys is possible. I have the 6" slim jims and haven't had a problem.
I too would suggest 96 studs in the middle, but only if the rear end is swinging on corners. If it's not or doing it only once in a while; why put at least 10+ lbs of rotating mass around your track?
snow_monkey
New member
Great advice, I have not had any cornering issues with my xp but I ride on snow!
arcticgeorge
New member
Limiter strap for sure
The amount of travel you lose will be unnoticeable......Theres a couple of things they recommend... Go to Snowtech Magazines web site, they have addressed several good question in many areas.... http://www.snowtechmagazine.com/category/dear-ralph/
The amount of travel you lose will be unnoticeable......Theres a couple of things they recommend... Go to Snowtech Magazines web site, they have addressed several good question in many areas.... http://www.snowtechmagazine.com/category/dear-ralph/
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Going to put a few turns in the front today. I'm also putting an exaust on which is suppose to be 6 pounds lighter, so will i be back to square one with a pushing problem after a small weight loss? This is the first snowmobile i've ever had thats why i have these questions. Thanks for all the suggestions.
snow_monkey
New member
No, 6lbs not enough to make a difference.
When I was at a Polaris Demo Ride recently, the Polaris rep said on the Pro-Ride sleds not to alter the front limiter straps for suspension adjustments.
arcticgeorge
New member
This is what the adjustable limiter strap is for......Now "suspension adjustments" is a very broad term...Asking him how to put more pressure on the skis would have been a more specific question... You can "adjust" the suspension in many ways..... And i'am sure they have the Pro-Ride suspension dialed in from the factory and have the proper ski pressure already.
With all of the available adjustments on the shocks, adjusting the front limiter straps on the rear skid should be done only if really necesary, and that is what the Polaris reps said when the question came up.
I was impressed with how only small adjustments to the shocks, be it the front or on the rear of the Pro Ride chassis, made big differences! I'd be surprised if a person couldn't dial in the ride to their liking with only doing spring & clicker adjustments.
I mentioned it elsewhere on the forum of my demo ride and the sleds,with only stock 4" oem carbide wear bars and a non-studded track handled well with only a few adjustments to the shock "clickers"-would have thought it had 6" or 8" carbide on the skis it worked that well for me.
Been having bad darting issues with the new Bergstrom carbides I bought, one suggestion was to loosen the front limiter strap to take ski pressure off of ski's, that was after I've been loosening ski shock spring tension with hardly any results. I have 2 2004 polaris's the Frontier Classic's, Looking at the setup there's no way you can loosen the strap, only 2 holes, normal or aggressive with the aggressive putting more ski pressure. Strap starts at point A, loops around frame shaft then ends at point A, also has a bolt with nut securing the strap around the frame shaft at the top. Thought - no brainer just move strap hole up one notch, secure at point A with bolt then put another bolt where the 2 holes lign up and forget the bolt setup at top of frame shaft. Well no can do cuz if you omit the bolt at top of frame shaft the limiter rubs on the sprocket of the drive axel. I've been really trying to make this work but to dangerous at high speeds with the sleds darting back and forth hopping out of 1 rut just to get in another. Friend of mine said it's cuz we went from dual carbides "which the sled had on from factory" to single's, I'm starting to belive him, right now the spring preload tension is 1 thread from bottom of shock, made it a little better but still darts like crazy, going back up "Hayward" in a couple of weeks if I don't get a pair of dooly's to change into I'm gonna first try taking out the ski shim then the ski savers and see what happens.