So far I don't have a lot of experience in riding in different areas out west, as I have been to Togwotee exclusively for the past 7 years. However, I would strongly recommend using a guide while out there, especially if you plan to go off trail.
All the guides at Togwotee are great and will show you a great time. Carter seems to be the favorite amongst riders in this forum and I have had the privilege of riding with him on several occasions and can verify that he is a top notch guide and will not only take you to the best spots, but can offer up instruction as well.
-John