Stud recomendation

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redrat75

New member
I have a 2007 Polaris Switchback and I would like to get some more traction out of it when I trail ride. Just wondering on any imput. I ride about 70% on trail and 30% off. I would like to do more off trail riding but I can't talk the group I ride with into it. Has any one ever tried the Trail Grabber screw that go into the lugs? Also if studs are the better choice what quanity and patters for a 144" track, I don't want any studs out side of the rails.

Thanks
 
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simonsr1

New member
redrat75 said:
I have a 2007 Polaris Switchback and I would like to get some more traction out of it when I trail ride. Just wondering on any imput. I ride about 70% on trail and 30% off. I would like to do more off trail riding but I can't talk the group I ride with into it. Has any one ever tried the Trail Grabber screw that go into the lugs? Also if studs are the better choice what quanity and patters for a 144" track, I don't want any studs out side of the rails.

Thanks
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Dont put any picks on the outer edges, just put them down the middle, not sure how many you should run with the 144" track,

check out this website "http://www.johnmaster.net"
the site is called Johnmaster, Johns a good guy, I bought a couple of tracks through him and studs and backers, he is very helpful and knows what he's talking about, you can't beat his prices anywhere, and he ships fast,
give him a call, tell him what sled/motor/track length, what type of riding you want to do and he will tell you what you need to do. also his ski carbides that he sells are the best, they hold up very well, I wont buy anything else anymore.

He's located in southern wisconsin, so shipping to you would probably be 1 day
 
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jimfsr

New member
if you have a 1 1/2" tall lug track, Your stud choice is real limited, not to mention it gets real hard on the track with studs that long. I have run the bergstrom carbide screws in several sleds and our groomer. They hold up well. They do not give as good a grip as regular studs because they are not as sharp and penatrating. If you spin the track and run over stuff a lot, you will pull them out, but they are relatively cheap and easy to replace. I would expect a few thousand miles on them if you stay off the pavement. You can expect to put in about double the number of screws as you would regular studs.
There are a few other products out there that are similar, I do not have experience with them, but I would think they would work well for what you want. You will see an increase in safety on ice with either one though. I will not ride w/o studs ever. Way too dangerous on icy trails.
 
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teamlipske

New member
I run 1.70 studs on my 1.5 inch 144. I also went with double backers and tall 3/4 inch nuts. My pattern is very simple just back and forth every window. 2 studs per window with one backer. This is what most of the snocross sleds run for a pattern. I also run 10 inch carbides. I got all of my traction products from www.snowstuds.com
 
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redrat75

New member
teamlipske said:
I run 1.70 studs on my 1.5 inch 144. I also went with double backers and tall 3/4 inch nuts. My pattern is very simple just back and forth every window. 2 studs per window with one backer. This is what most of the snocross sleds run for a pattern. I also run 10 inch carbides. I got all of my traction products from www.snowstuds.com
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So if I understand you right your running 114 studs in a 144" track and all studs are installed next to each other with the double backers and you have one set on the LH side one set center in the next on one set in the right side with no studs out side the track windows. What studs are you running the Top Dog or the Warthog? Also do you know if there are tunnel protectors made for the Switchbacks or do I just use a universial one.
Thanks for your help!
 
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teamlipske

New member
My pattern is Just Right, Left, Right, Left. The outside of the double backer in about 1.5 inches from the inside of the hifax window. I just went back and forth. I like to keep my studs out of the middle of the track. On a previous track the back of the studs hit the top of the front shock and blew out. Plus there is less down pressure in the middle of the track.

As for the tunnel protectors on the IQ. They are just short chucks of hifax that slide right onto the rear cooler over the track windows. They are only the lengh of the heat exchanger. You don't need protection the whole length of the tunnel like the old sleds.
 
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polarfreek

New member
jimfsr said:
if you have a 1 1/2" tall lug track, Your stud choice is real limited, not to mention it gets real hard on the track with studs that long. I have run the bergstrom carbide screws in several sleds and our groomer. They hold up well. They do not give as good a grip as regular studs because they are not as sharp and penatrating. If you spin the track and run over stuff a lot, you will pull them out, but they are relatively cheap and easy to replace. I would expect a few thousand miles on them if you stay off the pavement. You can expect to put in about double the number of screws as you would regular studs.
There are a few other products out there that are similar, I do not have experience with them, but I would think they would work well for what you want. You will see an increase in safety on ice with either one though. I will not ride w/o studs ever. Way too dangerous on icy trails.
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X2. I have a poo '01 800 XC with a 1 1/2" track and 144 studs. It GOES on any surface. Well worth the extra $ from the standard track it came with.
 
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