Trailer Brakes

markf419

New member
The other day when I was pulling my 2yr old snomo trailer from storage, I hit the trailer brakes from the controller to test them before getting on the road and seen the rt side wheels lock up(gravel lot) and the left side didn't seem to be working. I could also tell when driving that they don't seem to working as well as they should. Can anyone point me to where I should start looking first? Could a bad ground cause just one side to not work? The wire harness runs inside the trailer in that black flexible sheathing except for the ground running from each wheel to the frame. Or is it likely froze up from sitting? I've never serviced elec brakes before so any advice would help.
 

harski

Member
I too had the same issue on my 2 year old trailer. It's been in for service twice and both time they have made adjustments and or replaced the magnet (forgot the real name). The last time I was able to get the parts warrantied by Dexter as there had been some issues they were aware of but I did have to pay for labor. I'd also clean your ground(s) and check the connectors to your brakes as these companies don't do a very good job protecting these components. Lastly, do a search on here for trailers, brakes etc... as there was a recent thread with great suggestions on what to look for and what to use to replace the wire connectors. Good Luck! Harski
 

stealthv

New member
The left side may be rusted up or need to be adjusted.

Replaced my trailer brakes last year with self adjusting versions from etrailer.com
 

fredster

New member
I have an 11 year old R&R with electric brakes and it's now my habit to pull the drums every summer and lube the pivot points and adjusters...otherwise they rust up tight. Got about 4-5 years out of the OEM brakes and then the fun began - replaced everything at year 5 and the backing plates and mechanicals again at year 8. The guy that did the first set of replacements told me the best thing to do is to take the trailer for a springtime drive during a thunderstorm to flush out as much of the salt as possible, otherwise 2 years is about all you can expect before something sticks or corrodes. I used to use my trailer for a lot more off-season activities and did find the brakes held up better than they do now when I mainly use the trailer only in winters.

I wish someone would combine the anti-corrosion properties of galvanized trailer brakes with the usefulness of electroic brakes....anyone know of such a thing?
 

markf419

New member
The left side may be rusted up or need to be adjusted.

Replaced my trailer brakes last year with self adjusting versions from etrailer.com

I also have the self adjusting brakes.

Well I went out to work on it today. When jacked up, they all lock up firmly. The brakes ground wire runs straight from the main plug harness and connects in a outdoor type junction box and all connections look good so I'll bet they're sticking from rust.
I tried but couldn't pull the drums off. I know I have to back off the shoes but damn, there's only about 1/2" of room between the backing plate and the axle drop outboard the leaf springs. I have 2 different brake adjusting tools and neither
will fit in such a tight space.
 
Just to make sure some brake drums include the wheel bearing meaning you have to remove the castle nut on the spindle to remove the drum. Also take a look some backers have two slots so the star wheel may not be in the 6 oclock position

I also have the self adjusting brakes.

Well I went out to work on it today. When jacked up, they all lock up firmly. The brakes ground wire runs straight from the main plug harness and connects in a outdoor type junction box and all connections look good so I'll bet they're sticking from rust.
I tried but couldn't pull the drums off. I know I have to back off the shoes but damn, there's only about 1/2" of room between the backing plate and the axle drop outboard the leaf springs. I have 2 different brake adjusting tools and neither
will fit in such a tight space.
 

markf419

New member
Just to make sure some brake drums include the wheel bearing meaning you have to remove the castle nut on the spindle to remove the drum. Also take a look some backers have two slots so the star wheel may not be in the 6 oclock position

Yep. I pulled the outer bearing out. And yes, it does have two slots.... side by side. I guess cuz the backing plate's the same left and rt sides. I was thinking its hanging on the inner seal, but it moves maybe a 1/8" in/out but it's a solid stop when you pull on it, like if you just backed the nut off a little bit. I've done hundreds of brake jobs in the past (for a living) and sometimes drums get a ridge worn into them, they'll hang up and you'd have to back the shoes off. But even then, you could feel the spring pulling back if you pried on it. This is a solid hard stop. But anyway, I pulled the cord on the break away switch and it broke. So I got another and I have a bit of wiring to do cuz the battery was on the tongue outside and I'm moving it inside. If all elec connections are good, I'm taking it in for service.... its only $$ :p
 
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