Turning a snowmachine

[Tracker]

I'm guessing here but in my opinion it seems that the Turning of your sled is about 90% dependent on the carbides and wearbars and 10% dependent on the ski... I view the ski as just a holder for the carbide and wear bars because as you're going down the trail if we viewed it in slow-motion the sled would be running sometimes on just the carbides alone and the skis up to 1 to 2 inches in the air not even touching if it's hard pack and then if it's loose the carbides would be sunk into the surface almost to the skis being just barely touching or 1/4 inch above the surface of the trail and the carbide would be down into the trail and so the only time it appears the skis really help is off Trail when there's snow on each side of it and it's definitely deeper on the ski .... on the trail there just a holder to keep the wear bars straight and rigid ....well I was just wondering your thoughts something to discuss

 

[old abe]

Carbides don't have much to do with it in powder snow.

 

[1fujifilm]

I'm guessing here but in my opinion it seems that the Turning of your sled is about 90% dependent on the carbides and wearbars and 10% dependent on the ski... I view the ski as just a holder for the carbide and wear bars because as you're going down the trail if we viewed it in slow-motion the sled would be running sometimes on just the carbides alone and the skis up to 1 to 2 inches in the air not even touching if it's hard pack and then if it's loose the carbides would be sunk into the surface almost to the skis being just barely touching or 1/4 inch above the surface of the trail and the carbide would be down into the trail and so the only time it appears the skis really help is off Trail when there's snow on each side of it and it's definitely deeper on the ski .... on the trail there just a holder to keep the wear bars straight and rigid ....well I was just wondering your thoughts something to discuss

I might agree but if so, how the **** does Yamaha consistently screw up their skis year in and year out?

Bear

 

[old abe]

I might agree but if so, how the **** does Yamaha consistently screw up their skis year in and year out?

Bear

I think you need to buy a Yami S/W and then you'll know? Know that is you made a mistake? LMAO! Fuji, will there be any thing good left next week?

 

[1fujifilm]

I think you need to buy a Yami S/W and then you'll know? Know that is you made a mistake? LMAO! Fuji, will there be any thing good left next week?

Trails close today near me, gobs of rain tonight til Thursday; better deals may come soon (they are already quite good and inline with March 17 and 18).
I know where there is a Gade 900t and even an X version.
All 850's are gone except a few fugly white ones, there are 19 600 TNT's for high 8's too.

Bear

 

[Tracker]

Carbides don't have much to do with it in powder snow.

Dude.... are you sure they gave you your medication this morning.....lol

- - - Updated - - -

I think you need to buy a Yami S/W and then you'll know? Know that is you made a mistake? LMAO! Fuji, will there be any thing good left next week?

Haha the only mistake I made was not buying Arctic Cat all the time unfortunately I had to own a lot of Brands to learn.... to be fair I did have a Ski Doo Blizzard 5500 79 that was freaking awesome I did like that.... and the Yamaha Phazer Exciter and Enticer all those were good 340 440 and 570 I think they were.... then I had the misfortune to own a Vmax which ultimately led me to buy an Arctic Cat thank you Yamaha.... oh yeah and a 96 Polaris Indy Trail that thing is awesome I still have it and it still runs its got like 9800 miles on it

 

[sjb]

To address the OP - I will state it really depends. On a hardpacked trail, I might agree with you. But beyond that, not sure I do. The ski, and how you can make the edge of the keel work, has more to do with it than the carbide. The carbide will do the digging on the ice or hardpack, but the ski is what will make it turn in almost all other conditions. And of course, transferring your weight make a ton of difference as well.

 

[Tracker]

To address the OP - I will state it really depends. On a hardpacked trail, I might agree with you. But beyond that, not sure I do. The ski, and how you can make the edge of the keel work, has more to do with it than the carbide. The carbide will do the digging on the ice or hardpack, but the ski is what will make it turn in almost all other conditions. And of course, transferring your weight make a ton of difference as well.

but as you're running along how deep do you think that's all sinking in.... the first thing to hit will be the plates that the wear bars and carbides are welded onto and that's flat and about an inch and a half wide I doubt you're going to get that to sink into the ski touches

If you look when you stop nothing's cut in in the skis are up above the surface of the trial at least an inch on the center 2 to 3 inches on each Edge every time you stop hardly ever is it cut in with the carbides under the snow and it resting on the skis up to the edges weird.....unless its soft of course

 

[G]

It also makes a difference if it is flat bottomed ski or a rocker ski. If it is a rocker ski there is even less carbide touching at times when it is hardpack. Like about an inch. As the snow gets deeper the shape of the ski makes more difference. Duh.

 

[Eagle River Mike]

Suspension set up has a lot to do with it too. I'd rather ride a properly set up sled with burnt carbides that one set up incorrectly with brand new 10" carbides.