05 Skidoo 600 HO-Preventative maint?

[raco_guy]

I have a 05 Skidoo Renegade, 600 HO, I'm the original owner, it's been meticulously well-cared for, and has a little over 7500 miles on it. I have a few questions regarding "preventative maintenance":

1) Does it make sense to proactively put a new top-end rebuild (new pistons, rings, bearings, etc) in a sled that runs great, and has had no mechanical issues thus far? Compression is running about 120psi in both cylinders (warm)? I guess my question is, is it cheaper to do a rebuild before it siezes up or wait until it happens. I plan on hanging on to the sled as a back up and for friends to ride, etc., but I know it wouldn't be worth crap if the motor was junk and I don't know when to expect that out of an 05 600 HO?

2) Same sled, has never had any drive axle maint done. Again, with 7500 miles, I'm looking for guidance on what items need to be replaced, looked at, etc. The only thing done is both primary and secondary clutches have been rebuilt and I go through the carbs/exhaust valves at the end of every season. Do I need to start worrying about driveshaft bearings, other things?

3) I tore off the carbs and replaced the carb boots, reed cages on the sled. When I did most of the antifreeze poured through the heated carb hoses. What is the process to fill up the tank with antifreeze to avoid air and get the proper amount, I remember something about having to set it uphill with the cap off and run it???? But not sure...

That should be it for now, thanks for your assistance.

 

[witz]

You will likely get a variety of answers on this one, but here's my thoughts.

1. At 7500 miles it's time to do a top end. There are plenty of 600 HOs that get higher miles than that, but there are those that have problems before then. It will be cheaper to do one now as opposed to if/when it lets go. At 120 psi I would say you're on the low end of the spec. Does it stall when going into reverse? A top end kit including gaskets is about $200 with SPI pistons and is an easy job. It's also not a bad idea at this point to pull the bottom end so you can split it and repack the outer crank bearings with Isoflex.

2. Drivetrain bearings are also pretty easy to change. Time consuming, especially to drop the drive shaft out, but not difficult. All the bearings can also be sourced from somewhere other than BRP for far less money. Somewhere I have a list of all the necessary part numbers. Fastenal is a good source.

3. I'd have to refer to the manual for exact details, but typically you fill the reservoir to slightly above the cold line and start the sled with the rear of the sled elevated and let it idle for a few minutes with the cap off. I believe it then states to rev the engine a few times, with the rear of the sled still elevated. After that, you raise the front of the sled and let it idle. All of that is intended to get the air out of the system.

 

[mtu_deltsig]

I have the same sled with 10,000 miles. I haven't touched anything in the motor but had the clutches rebuilt. I run Amsoil in my sled.

1. If the sled does not stall with RER, I personally would not touch the top end. Each compression gauge will read differently on max value. As long as each cylinder is within 10 psi you should be good.


Updating the things you mention is not a bad idea but, if you are not going to use the sled a lot in the future you could be wasting your money.

I have a friend that has 600 sdi renegade with 15k and has not replaced anything in the motor.

 

[indy_500]

I wouldn't touch the motor with that many miles. Means it was broken in well and taken care of. Just let it warm up good. I would focus on clutches.