2001 xc sp 600 issues

I have a 600 xcsp and when off choke it idles between 4000 and 4400....I adjusted the idle screw and now idles about 2200 but when you do that have to keep throttling the motor and sled backfires occasionally and will run fine throttled when moving as soon as you idle it dies will also bog down some as response time from throttle to action pauses a bit....I changed plugs an putting new gas in as just got and gas is old and going to put seafoam in...with fresh gas.... any other ideas that would cause this....I had a 700 xc sp 99 did the same thing put fresh gas in changed fuel filter new plugs boaged for about another 5 minutes then was fine after


I cleaned the exhaust valves as well!
 
a high idle can also becaused by cracks in the intake boots, look at them carefully. Definately fresh fuel and see how it acts.
 

Dewy

New member
I would increase your size on your pilot jet. If your carb boots seem fine.It sounds like a lean condition.
 
I think I found the issue the choke cable is very loose where it treaded into that small holder and the two nuts the one on the top and the one on the bottom are loose... but first it is a 10mm nut and second you can not get a standard length 10mm wrench to fit in there to tighten the nuts! I think this is will solve my issue because when this is held tight the sled runs ok at idle it does not die or backfire,,,,suggesstions on how to tighten...you can not even finger tighten either as both turn when trying to do so!
 
I also have oil now coming out of the exhaust valves....I cleaned them maybe did not tighten enough although in trying to fix issue first described rode sled about 65 miles as when riding it runs fine now with choke extremely loose would it have made it too rich and supplied more oil?.....did not notice any oil leak out of valves until I tried to tighten choke and it became very loose! Hope not a more serious issue!
 
I am a little concerned about the oil leaking ....could that be associated with my choke issue....I had no leaking whatsoever until the choke cable nuts both top and bottom became very loose....someone please advise!
 

snoeatr

Member
Is the oil leaking where the engine and valve meet? If you cleaned the valves, the gasket is probably not sealing now when you put them back on. Replace gaskets. Not enough info where exactly the oil is coming from. As far as the choke issue, you may have to take the carbs off to tighten the chokes. Adjust them evenly and to the point where the cable is not pulling on the plungers with the lever off, but starts to move them as soon as the cable moves. If you take the carbs off inspect the intake boots for cracks and dry rot and also drop the bowls and clean jets and any corrosion out of bottom of bowls.
 
I know this might sound stupid, but are you 100% sure that the sled is running on BOTH cylinders? I've seen people turn the idle up on everything under the sun (from chain saws and weed wackers, to cars, trucks, and farm equipment), all for the sake of compensating for other more serious problems that they didn't have a clue how to fix.

If you don't know, there are two real easy ways to find out.

#1.) while the sled is running, pull of one plug wire at a time from the spark plug. You should hear a noticeable drop in engine RPM and engine sound when you unplug each wire, and then an increase when you re-attach the wire. Again, do one at a time. If you are worried about getting "zapped", use some insulated handled pliers and wear a DRY leather glove also. Othewise, just grow some balls and just pull 'em off. It only hurts for a second anyhow. LOL

#2.) You can put your hand on the side of each cylinder jug. One side will be stupid hot and the other will be warm to cool if there is a dead cylinder. Otherwise, both should feel roughly the same temperature. An easier way to do this is with an infrared heat gun, but still not everyone has those these days.

Ok, so that's just my first thought. Not saying that's what it is, but it's a starting point.

Judging by your comments about the carbs, it's sounding like they've possibly been all monkeyed up by someone? If so, time to get a manual, remove them, clean them out, inspect them, re-adjust them, re-install them, re-synchronize them, and get her up and running again.

I would also take a compression test on each cylinder and see what I have. A blown head gasket can cause lots of strange problems, and sucking air can lead to high RPM's as well.

There's also the outside chance that you have bad crankshaft seals. They will suck air when bad, and create a lean run, higher RPM condition.

What else? The boys already covered checking your carb intake boots. They should not have any tears in them.

If you remove the carbs and the intake boots, might as well check the reed petal cages. The petals should not be burned or broken on the reeds. (However, that shouldn't have anything to do with a high idle problem.)

Sounds silly, but check your throttle cable routing. I've seen people route the cables incorrecty sometimes, and that causes the throttle pistons to be pulled up by the tension of the cables themselves accidentally, even when you aren't touching the thumb-throttle lever.

There's probably more, but these are just some ideas off the top of my head.

Good luck hoss.
 
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