2004 800 polaris Top end rebuild questions

[penaltyvectors]

Hello Everyone,

I'm getting ready to put all my parts back together on my top end rebuild. I was wondering where I could find the torque specs for the following bolts and nuts and if I need to use locktite on any of them. The sled is a 2004 Polaris 800 switchback.

-Exhaust bolts to the cylinder. There are lock washers on the bolts but I'm not sure if there is a torque requirement.

-Cylinder. There are 4 nuts that thread onto the studs for each cylinder.

-Head. I forget how many bolts there are but saw from another thread that a 600 polaris should be 20-22 foot lbs and that they need to be tightened in a crossing pattern saving the torquing to last after they have been snugged up. Is this the correct torque for the 800 also?

-VES. I there a torque requirement for these? Also I just replaced both with the newer stainless steel blades and they have a flat surface on one side and some cut out pieces on the other side of the blade. Does the flat surface go in facing up or down when placed in the cylinder? One of the VES that were replaced broke off and fell into the cylinder causing an engine seize but both of the old ones were flat on both sides. If you haven't replaced these already I recommend it as the 140$ for new blades is much cheaper than the rebuild I'm doing.

I think that is all for now and any help is appreciated.

Thanks,
Dave

 

[indy_500]

those exhaust bolts (ones on the y-pipe) should be torqued to around 10 ft. lbs.

 

[mjkaliszak]

POO Chart

Here, hope this is big enough. IF not and you PM me your e-mail, I will send a big pic (jpeg ) this is out of the POO manual.

The blades ( gullotines ) flat side up I believe, look at the angle. The short side of the angle is up, the long side down.
VES bellows Housing Cover 12 ft lbs. Be carefull with those they strip easily. Locktite
Head Cover bolts 25 ft lbs apply locktite, should be criss cross from the center out.
Cylinder nuts ( on studs ) 37 ft lbs, DRY but I locktite almost everything.( IMO )

This is 600 HO stuff , so use the chart to compare bolt dia & grades. I always use 242 Loctite Blue. I torque in stages, ie: all @ 15, then all @ 20, then all @ 25.

 

[indy_500]

you may need extra long hex bit sockets also for those bolts on the y-pipe if you don't want to strip them out. (at least i did) and as for the loctite, there's this twist cap blue stuff i got from fleet farm, and i love it. Totally worth it compared to the tiny tubes you get for $4.50.

 

[penaltyvectors]

I can read the pic in the post. Thanks for the info from both of you guys. I will have to look at the blade to see if I can tell the short side from the long side.

Dave

 

[penaltyvectors]

I can read the pic in the post. Thanks for the info from both of you guys. I will have to look at the blade to see if I can tell the short side from the long side.

Dave

I got my top end rebuilt and everything is running good. As far as the blades on the VES there is only one way to put them in so even I couldn't mess that up . What kind of break in period should I do since I the rebuild? I normally only ride a couple times a year in the UP so is there a certain milage or hours riding that I should look to get before not having to worry about getting on the throttle?

Thanks,
Dave

 

[dschultz]

I got my top end rebuilt and everything is running good. As far as the blades on the VES there is only one way to put them in so even I couldn't mess that up . What kind of break in period should I do since I the rebuild? I normally only ride a couple times a year in the UP so is there a certain milage or hours riding that I should look to get before not having to worry about getting on the throttle?

Thanks,
Dave

I would run extra oil in the tank for a few tanks. I usually put somewhere around 12 oz. in the tank. Then just dont hammer it for the for the first tank of gas, and dont run a constant throttle. Its what I do and have never had any trouble.