Kraven700
Thanks for the information. My .020" gap at the back side of the secondary using the Team alignment tool. So the bigest thing is to get my center to center distance adjusted. I found if I take a .060" of a shim and place it under the left hand FWD engine mount I can get the .020" gap out from the clutch aligement and then I moved the motor back to get the 11.5" center to center distance. Mine is not that far out to the point of slotting the engine mounts. I did find out that both rear motor mount nuts were not torqued down to 28 lb.ft. I appricate all the extras you have shaired and I will make sure to check those items out.
Shimming that one side only now puts the crank c/line on a different plane than the jack shaft, essential causing the belt to "TWIST" so I would NOT recommend doing that.
That .020" of air gap at the rear of the secondary is PERFECT! Now that I know you've been using the correct alignment bar. Previously, I thought you were using the GOLD PLATED POLARIS TOOL.
Did you check for a broken motor mount and or stud pulled through the chassis, if not try taking a LARGE pry bar and try prying the engine up, especially the P.T.O. side front.
I thought that you measured and posted (correct me if I mis-read) the c/c to be long ??
The ONLY way to shorten the C/C on and IQ is to slot the engine brackets. Slot the bracket holes an equal amount on both sides.
Talk to SLP, they'll advise the same they say they've seen this on ALL BRANDS from time to time.
To confirm that c/c/ measurement without the tool, do this:
1) Remove both clutches
2) BUTT the accurate metal measure rule up to the jack-shaft and measure to the center of the crank, looking for 11.00" (as the jack-shaft is 1" O.D., deducting half that from the 11.5" c/c)
The other way is copy the tool of my pic, and fabricate one out of a piece of 1/8" thick scrap aluminum or steel.
Follow the TECH TIPS, and you'll have the quickest "stock " 700 on the trail, and your belts will last forever.
