2010 ski doo 800r power tek
- Thread starter BREEZY
- Start date
L
lenny
Guest
just hold on tight because the 800r packs a major punch
harvest1121
Well-known member
I had a 2008 without a motor issue. I did have the clutch brace on it and cleaned the valves every year. I used Sea and Snow in it without an issue. If you bought from a dealer it should have all the updated done.
Ebay is good place to look for belts. I think I got mine from Leaders marine. Ski Doo makes a improved cvt cover (belt guard) for $40 that improves the cooling. An aftermarket billet deflection adjuster is big upgrade over the stock one. DOOtalk is a good source for info on your sled.
mjkaliszak
New member
I did alot to mine 09 800r, clutch/tower brace is a biggie... along with a AM quick adjuster for the belt on the secondary. I bought a goodwin just because they looked cool. IF BRP still has that junk plastic hub on the 10's you might want to consider it. I second the DOO Talk for the best info, if you can sort out the bs from the good posts there is no better place for tech help. Made some good friends there. I also ran sea & snow since day one had 54-5600 on it we I sold it.
Any dealer can run the vin number and see if all updates have been done...might want to ask on doo talk or just browse on the site and see what they have to say...not sure if they still have the problems on the newer doo's but might want to pick up an extra relay and keep with ya...they say a tower brace will make the belts last longer too...My wife has an 07 PTek and that definatly is an impressive motor for sure.
I have an 09 gade and have done alot of things ot it. 1st yr I had it I blew a belt every 100 miles. If you plan on riding hard, you will need to get a baseline of your XYZ alignment of clutches. Most have an X that is 3mm out. Shimming will solve this with minimal cost ($30). You will want a tower brace, venting, gear down 1 tooth on top MIN and do some mild clutching. These changes stopped all my belt blowing. I have taken mine and well far any beyond the bare minimum in the last few yrs and now I have the sled I have always wanted. Best upgrade was floating the secondary, but that is $500. Consistant 8200 every time and cool clutches.
I now also run a 1.75 track and a summit front end
I now also run a 1.75 track and a summit front end
mjkaliszak
New member
http://goodwinperformance.com/
Here it is for 2010-2012 , scroll to bottom of page.QRS quick adjuster, the good news is they are cheaper than I paid in 12-2008 .
Just like " salmonbum " said, you need to buy or make an alignment bar, and verify the xyz. If you look with your eye, at the primary it will look cocked( the OD is cut on a taper ) left me scratching my head the first time I looked at it. I had little problems with belts and riding hard w/ studs after I aligned mine. It is that important... and well worth the time. My only comp[laint with the sled was the inside ski lift on the shorty's . I spent some time & money to cure that.....My budd has a 2011 X and it was impressive comparatively speaking. I should have bought 1. If you plan on keeping the sled ? I would also invest in some support braces from Rip n Grip or another AM. I sunk alot of cash into shocks, 125# springs, a-arms off the summit hillclimb.... sometimes I really miss that sled.
Easy way to check belt alignment is put a straight edge on the outside of secondary, following the belt down. Measure the gap between straight edge and belt at secondary and again at Primary. They should be very close to the same measurement. Primary distance can be about 1.5-2.0mm less that the upper measurement. Anything more and you got a belt eating demon.
