Last trip I rode mostly between air setting 3-5. I did take 1 morning to try and optimize the air suspension on Grade 3 between Watersmeet and Lando lots of small studders. The suspension was packed with snow and ice so I didn’t see any dials or cams to adjust plus the manual doesn’t show any. The coupler was on 4 and my understanding is the coupler is just easy adjustment for ski pressure. I also have stock 4 inch TS ski carbides and a set of navigators basically to tune out slight dart. My Bud behind me the day before on 180 mile trip said my suspension wasn’t traveling much suggested that I may want to soften up. So on test morning I started at number 1 in the studders upped quickly 2 then 3. The ride was spongy in 1-2 not to my liking so ended up on 4 which seemed to smooth things out 5 was very harsh imo. What else can I do to optimize 900t air ride the manual is no help at all?
2019 900t Enduro Air Suspension Adjustments
- Thread starter whitedust
- Start date
dfattack
Well-known member
I will be interested to see replies.
One thing I have learned and I am no expert, is that the center shock from the factory has a lot of pre-load on it. Setting your rear sag and replacing rear springs if necessary to get it dialed in should be done first. Adjusting the air ride suspension from what I can see it the last thing you adjust after everything else is set. I pretty much have the same air ride setup or very similar on my grand touring as your and I found setting 1 to be perfect with only one rider. This doesn't suggest yours should be set on 1 now without making all the other adjustments first. I think we've discussed this before but wanted to post in case others were interested
One thing I have learned and I am no expert, is that the center shock from the factory has a lot of pre-load on it. Setting your rear sag and replacing rear springs if necessary to get it dialed in should be done first. Adjusting the air ride suspension from what I can see it the last thing you adjust after everything else is set. I pretty much have the same air ride setup or very similar on my grand touring as your and I found setting 1 to be perfect with only one rider. This doesn't suggest yours should be set on 1 now without making all the other adjustments first. I think we've discussed this before but wanted to post in case others were interested
Setting 1 on your GT with 1 rider makes sense just not a whole lot to adjust on the enduro air shock unless I’m missing something. I’m hoping someone here has more experience with air ride than we do.
Do you mean change out the springs? Any adjustments? I have ice ripper track and that requires 4 on coupler so I was thinking of going up on the carbides too.
With the ice ripper I’m pushing on ice and bare pavement so thinking moving up on carbides just wanted to get wear out of stock carbides first. On trails we were on the front end was predicable no problem with that but I would like to lighten up steering effort which will be easy to do with coupler a lot more difficult to harden up center shock and a pita for me. So no adjustments on Springs means I would have to swap them out for what?
goofy600
Well-known member
Whitedust you should have a spring tensioner block that has 5 different settings 1 soft 5 maxed out the red coupler block is for weight transfer from the rear skid. 1 most transfer best chance for some ski lift 4 least transfer minimal ski lift. Does your sled have just the RAS suspension or the newer RAS X because the X version has very little to no ski lift or transfer. I have read on Doo talk how a lot of guys that change out rear springs to the HD version that only way in the 200 lb. height so they can keep spring tension block on lower setting as apposed to running block at a 4 or 5. Will let you know how setting up an enduro goes next year as I just ordered one for the wifey 900t.
dfattack
Well-known member
Im 200 lbs and the sag on my Mach was over 8” stock. Doo tends to set up from the factory for 160 ish lb. Riders. Every doo I have needed rear torsion springs swapped out. Shouldn’t have blocks on 5 just to compensate. Pete I’m not an expert by any means but center shock most likely does need adjustment (less pre load not more) and you shouid consider finding someone to make adjustments for you who knows what they are doing if you can’t.
snomoman
Active member
I have my springs set on 5 and my red rear coupling blocks set at 3, I had the springs set at 4 last year but kept bottoming out occasionally, I weigh close to 200 pounds and with all my gear and my linq bag on the back I’ll be close to 250 pounds so I’m thinking of buying a set of heavy duty springs, the sled has close to 8000 miles on it and maybe the springs are just worn out by now, what price range am I looking at for a pair of springs?
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
dfattack
Well-known member
There is a ton of info / threads on this over at dootalk.
Thanks guys surprising what a guy can see and do with a completely thawed out rear suspension. Lol I’ll need another guy to help me measure sag but think I’m pretty close since on 1 on my torsion spring blocks and easy enough to harden up. Center shock preload is all the way soft which I suspected with heavy steering so I could harden that 1 step for sure. I do like my skis on the ground but could move coupler block from 4 to 3 with longer TS carbides installed could lighten steering. I do like a firm suspension so if I can ride on 3-4 on air shock setting with occasional 5 at high speed to avoid bottoming I think I’ll be happy. I have owned all brands in the past and all rear suspensions work the same even the Yamaha EC mono so it’s just matter of getting to know where adjustments are located and work from there. Snomoman I’m a shock freak so once losing performance I would rebuild but must confess Idk what is possible with an air ride rebuilt shock. For stiffer rear springs I would suggest a dual rate spring see if anyone has done that with air ride. Thanks for all the input always good to hear difference opinions on set ups. 
wiharley02
Active member
I've had 2 renegades, don't have one currently but looking forward to getting back to one. On my renegades, to reduce the pushing, I always "picked up" some of the front of the track off the ground, by shortening the front arm limiter strap by 1-2 holes. Can be done with the skid in the sled (set the front curve of the track on some wood blocks to slightly compress and put slack in the straps. Once shortened, lift the weight off the track so the straps are tight. Then with the straps tight I've always run the front track shock as light as possible without having the spring be loose on the shock and risk it falling off.
Disclaimer #1: My renegades were 2 strokes, 4 stroke likely will respond differently.
Disclaimer #2: This is what I liked and worked for me, results may vary.
Also on the bottoming comments. Remember generally speaking (probably most of the time for us trail riders), don't put heavier springs on to prevent bottoming. Preventing bottoming is the job of the shock. "Springs are for setting ride height (loaded), shocks are for bump absorption and rebound control". I can't say for sure I've never looked at one close, but I think the air ride shock is not rebuildable/re-valvable. I think it is a "HPG" but still a "throw-away".
The TSS ski's, if you like them, great, but just my opinion, I prefer a stock pilot ski with 6" shaper bars. Again no offense if you like them! But my opinion they are more marketing gimmick. If they were "better" wouldn't they be on more of the 1-up trail sled lineup?
Disclaimer #1: My renegades were 2 strokes, 4 stroke likely will respond differently.
Disclaimer #2: This is what I liked and worked for me, results may vary.
Also on the bottoming comments. Remember generally speaking (probably most of the time for us trail riders), don't put heavier springs on to prevent bottoming. Preventing bottoming is the job of the shock. "Springs are for setting ride height (loaded), shocks are for bump absorption and rebound control". I can't say for sure I've never looked at one close, but I think the air ride shock is not rebuildable/re-valvable. I think it is a "HPG" but still a "throw-away".
The TSS ski's, if you like them, great, but just my opinion, I prefer a stock pilot ski with 6" shaper bars. Again no offense if you like them! But my opinion they are more marketing gimmick. If they were "better" wouldn't they be on more of the 1-up trail sled lineup?
snomoman
Active member
I did go in the garage and push down on the back of my sled, it seems like it’s pretty easy to push down so I’m figuring I may need to rebuild that rear shock, being that there is 8000 miles on it I guess so, any suggestions on where to go to have it rebuilt? I should probably send out the other front skid shock as wellThanks guys surprising what a guy can see and do with a completely thawed out rear suspension. Lol I’ll need another guy to help me measure sag but think I’m pretty close since on 1 on my torsion spring blocks and easy enough to harden up. Center shock preload is all the way soft which I suspected with heavy steering so I could harden that 1 step for sure. I do like my skis on the ground but could move coupler block from 4 to 3 with longer TS carbides installed could lighten steering. I do like a firm suspension so if I can ride on 3-4 on air shock setting with occasional 5 at high speed to avoid bottoming I think I’ll be happy. I have owned all brands in the past and all rear suspensions work the same even the Yamaha EC mono so it’s just matter of getting to know where adjustments are located and work from there. Snomoman I’m a shock freak so once losing performance I would rebuild but must confess Idk what is possible with an air ride rebuilt shock. For stiffer rear springs I would suggest a dual rate spring see if anyone has done that with air ride. Thanks for all the input always good to hear difference opinions on set ups.
Thanks in advance
I would see what Doo dealer would recommend they sold enough to have a policy.
ridindirty800
Active member
I know nothing about Air Ride shocks. But I have Ian at Monster Performance do all my shock work. IMO he is hands down the best shock guy in the USA for sleds. You fill out paper work with riding style your weight etc...... He then calibrates your shocks to where he feels they will give you the ride you want. Never had a issue and my sled rode like a cadillac when I put the shocks back in my sled. Not sure he does anything with Air Ride but if you have oil shocks I would send to him.
http://www.monsterperf.com/
http://www.monsterperf.com/