I have a bolt that is stuck - the bottom bolt on the front track spring. I've taken Polaris' suspensions apart before and I don't remember any issues. The nut is off and the bolt turns, just won't come out. Any ideas? I am hesitant to just start whacking it with force.
Bolt stuck - bottom bolt on front track shock on 06 Fusion 600
- Thread starter Hoosier
- Start date
polarisrider1
New member
Put a round punch on it and wack it. It has preasure on it. Lift weight off suspension.
Bang it
I had the same problem this year when I replaced the 2 front shocks on my sled this year. Figured bolts were rusted to shock. I had the sled jacked up, skis off the groud. I ended up leaving the nut on ,banging on that to get the bolt started, then when to a punch. I also used lots of liquid wrench type stuff and heated the shock end with a torch then Bang. Dong this several times..Plan on new bolts and nuts. Be persistent once it starts to move keep bang'n.
Happy swinging.
BR
I had the same problem this year when I replaced the 2 front shocks on my sled this year. Figured bolts were rusted to shock. I had the sled jacked up, skis off the groud. I ended up leaving the nut on ,banging on that to get the bolt started, then when to a punch. I also used lots of liquid wrench type stuff and heated the shock end with a torch then Bang. Dong this several times..Plan on new bolts and nuts. Be persistent once it starts to move keep bang'n.
Happy swinging.
BR
Last edited:
indy_500
Well-known member
You must really have some rust under there, I've taken sleds apart from the previous decade and never had problems. Have had a few bent bolts though... Just whack it a few times, maybe some heat, it will come off. Replace the bolt obviously with a high quality grade 8. I put red loctite on every bolt in the skid. I take it apart every year, it may come apart like he11 but you dont want those bolts to loosen up while riding, or they oval out your tunnel and your rails. Ask me how I know... I've had bogey wheels fall off and bolts holding on alum. shafts the bogey wheels ride on and also support the shock fall out on the first ride. No more anti-seize for me. Welding up bolt holes in alum rails is not fun stuff. Look up prices on www.kenssports.com on the parts fiche for your sled. You'll find rear suspension parts are not cheap. I lost a bolt that was holding on a polygonal washer that fits into the groove on the rail and that washer cost me $22. Tube of loctite is under $5 rails are $150 a piece torque arms are $150 a piece. Bogey wheels are $30 a piece without bearing or mount. I'm all for making things easier to work on later, but I will always use red loctite on all the bolts in the skid. I do tend to ride on some pretty rough trails though... I think I'm starting to rant about nothing LOL...............
It came out fairly easily. Just took a few whacks. I was just hesitant to put any force on something that should have came out fairly easily. Thanks for the advise. Now I can get the shocks rebuilt...
I was figuring I should use some loctite on these bolts when I put it together, but I figured the blue is appropriate. Indy, don't you need heat to get the red loctite loose?
I'm going to go through the suspension while it's out and replace any bolt or washers that are too rusty to clean up easily...most aren't too bad. Most of the rust is on the metal arms or on a few washers.
I was figuring I should use some loctite on these bolts when I put it together, but I figured the blue is appropriate. Indy, don't you need heat to get the red loctite loose?
I'm going to go through the suspension while it's out and replace any bolt or washers that are too rusty to clean up easily...most aren't too bad. Most of the rust is on the metal arms or on a few washers.
Maybe I'm just remembering the colors wrong.
indy_500
Well-known member
No, your not. They claim you need heat to break red loctite. I've NEVER needed heat for red loctite, only rusted on bolts.