Cabin skirting

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duramaxdoo

New member
What have some of you used to skirt around cabins built up off ground on piers. Looking for ideas. Thought about using pole barn metal backed with 2 inch foam insulation. My idea was to bury half a treated 2x8 in ground to seal against critters and also to use half as a bottom screwing point. Top would be tucked inside a j channel. Wanted to stay away from the T-111 siding because of the moisture around ground level. What do you guys think?
 
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ezra

Well-known member
I helped a bud do his last year and we used james hardi 4x8 sheets you can keep that stuff in a lake for a few years and pull it out with no damage.he did use the tile backer style of the hardy backer about 20 bucks for a 4x8 but after it was up he sprayed dark stucco over it with a celing hopper gun looks good.we did what you are thinking dug a trench and shot it on around the rim and used green 2x4 at ground put a door on 1 end and he had a guy spray foam the inside and up the rim joist but cutting 2 in would prob be cheeper I think he payed 600 for a 24x30 but he wanted it done and not wast his time off insulating. his place is about 3 ft off the ground at its high point and 18 in at low.any place with a span over 2 ft we shot 2x4 2 ft on center from rim to trench just to give it some extra backing for when he is drunk on the riding mower or what ever else may hit the skirt like a ski trailer corner who knows.I thought we should have used epoxy morter and used some cheep slate over the james hardy but that would have added 2 more days and another grand and the stucco looks nice
 
oldguy

oldguy

Member
I used pressure treated ½ inch plywood on the outside. Framed the whole perimeter with 2/4’s, going with 2 foot on center. Used pressure treated 2/4’s on whatever had contact with the ground. I did not dig it into the ground that much, just enough to so there was no open gaps. Then I used fiberglass insulation between the 2/4’s and stapled poly to the whole inside. I finished up with some spray foam insulation were I needed it. I did put a fan down there for a little ventilation because it was too air tight and I was worried about humidity problems.
 
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anonomoose

New member
Oldguy...do yourself a favor and cut a few vents in there to open in the summer....you don't want to grow bad stuff down there and get sick.

Just shut them in late fall. Crawl spaces need ventilation in the summer.
 
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kevisip

New member
EZRA, are you going to place a frozen cardboard hut (AKA ICE-HOUSE), not talking beer, not that would be bad, on Lake Mtka this year?
 
oldguy

oldguy

Member
Thanks for the advise Anonomoose, I was concerned about possible mold also. We ended up tearing that cabin down this year and building a new one.
 
oldguy

oldguy

Member
No I didn't build it myself. I was the general contactor and hired out anything that my wife and I couldn't handle like framing, plumbing, electrical, sheetrock and finishing.
 
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ezra

Well-known member
kevin I have had a house on tonka for 9 yrs but I halled the old house to the dump this spring.never had a chance to use last 2 yrs.my buds all used it but not me.you may have seen it it was off mound beach this winter and made of all steel doors walls floor roof my little 9x9 hot box .if you join the west tonka snoblazers you can use the club ice house when ever you want thay keep it just out from mound beach.nice big house crank down .I have been in it with at least 12 people particapating in all kinds of disfunctional behavior.that group likes to party almost or maby more than ridding.
 
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lukester

New member
If you dont want to dig the skirt into the ground heres another idea. Lay down rolled roofing at the base of the skirt and then put 1-3 inch rock/gravel on the roofing material extending out 10 inch or more. pretty much makes it critterproof and its easy/inexpensive
 
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lenny

Guest
I cannot be of much help as to skirting because this is what I did. I built it high for a few reasons. I wanted to do a good job of insulating and sheeting the underside of the cabin so that is why this cabin is high off the ground, also park the avt's and sleds under it
114342.jpg
 
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lenny

Guest
but ezra and oldguy had some good suggestions. You just need top select materials that will not rot away
 
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98panther

New member
Buring a 2x8 halfway into the dirt will not keep critters out.

It'll just make their new home more secure less drafty for them, they will appreciate it I'm sure.
 
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lukester

New member
Jerry I posted earlier on this thread "under lukester". I was hoping to see what other folks came up with.
Just wanted you to know I did the same thing your attempting on my mobile home. After sealing it up and burying the panels I realized that I created a breading ground for every critter known to man. It turned into a nightmare.
They will seek out the heat from the building and just keep digging under it until they figure a way in. If you try to bury a 2 X 6 they will find a way around it in just days.
YOU HAVE TO CREATE A BARRIER THEY CANNOT DIG UNDER,

Here's what works
Lay down rolled roofing (not roofing paper) about 6 inches in from the point that the siding/paneling will rest.
Extend this outwards...lets say 16-32 inches. (The farther out the better). As a option you can also put rolled wire fencing on top of roofing.
The roofing will keep all the red squirrels , chipmunks ,mice ,out.
The fencing will keep out the bigger critters.
Now on top of the roofing/fencing put marble to golf ball size (round rock) 6 inches or better at skirting tapering off to no less then 3 inches on the outside edge.
If critters try to dig into this (round rock) it just rolls.
Not only does it work but it looks great. AND your weed eater along with your back will get a break.

PS: as stated in the posts above if you make it air tight you have to install vents for the spring/summer months.
If you don't you will have a big mold/rot problem on the bottom flooring of cabin. VERY IMPORTANT!!
 
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