Consequences of running track too tight (M-10)

xcr440

Well-known member
The drive cogs were rubbing on the limiter straps when I bought the sled, and they finally grenaded a week ago. So, new straps installed, and I moved the skid mount back 1/2", to give a 1/4" of space between the cogs and the limiter straps.

Now, I basically have NO adjustment on the track, the rear axle is all the way up in the adjuster slots, and I think its still a little too tight. I put 6 miles on it, and it ran fine, but the track is hanging maybe 1/2" off the rails.

Can I change the limiter strap adjustment to get more space? The track got REAL loose once they broke. I have it on the 3/4 holes right now. Should I go to the 4/4? Will this give me any adjustment room?

I know, try it and find out, just thought I'd ask to get opinions as I won't be making a change until tomorrow night or Monday.
 

MZEMS2

New member
A guideline I've used a few times ( in the garage, with skis flat on the floor) is to pick the sled up in back, letting the suspension relax. Then, slowly let it down again. The track should hit the floor flat, from front to back. If your strap is too tight, the back of the track will hit the floor first, if the straps are to lose, the front will hit first. Try it, it's a way of getting a baseline anyway. Seems to me that you're set up with the straps too tight now. Do you even have any front suspension travel? The track too tight will wear out your hyfax fast in the fronts. It'll make the sled work more too, if it's way too tight. If you have 1/2" of slack with it just hanging there on a stand, it's probably ok. There's a distance and weight that you use to guesstimate it, but I can't remember the two right now. I think you hang 6lbs from the track, and it should sag about 3/4"....I'm not sure though, maybe someone else remembers the two. Good luck
 
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xcr440

Well-known member
Front of the track hits the floor first. But not too much, the rear just sits on the floor with the weight of the tunnel/seat on the suspension.
 

fredster

New member
When I bought my wife's 2005 600 Classic with M10 I found an online document on M10 tuning. The directions said the front of the track should contact the floor just slighty before the back. Roughly about 1" off the floor at the back when the front contacted the floor. Any steeper angle and the sled will be real loose as all the weight is at the front of the skid. Too flat puts most pressure more on the back and you loose bump handling. I set my wife's up like this and it works pretty well. You have to have the rear spring settings in the correct weight range first.

You can also increase or decrease your front suspension spring tension to raise/lower the front of the sled, that works in tandem with the M10 settings to affect overall handling too.

I also noticed that the M10 is very sensitive to weight changes. And at least in my wife's case it has to be biased towards the lighter end of the range for a given weight.

Now that it's dialed it she really likes it.
 

xcr440

Well-known member
Yeah, that sounds about like how I have it set. I have 1250 miles on this season, so I've had a good amount of time to get it dialed in for my wieght. I REALLY like the ride of the M-10.

My main concern now with having moved the skid mounting plates back 1/2" is am I going to be doing any sort of damage by running the track fairly tight until I get a chance to create more adjustability on the rear axle.
 

indy_500

Well-known member
I'm a believer in running the track loose. But, I've heard from many it's something you shouldn't do if you have an M-10.
 
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