Diamond drive oil change

euphoric1

Well-known member
This time when I went to purchase oil to change in my 2007 f-1000 I noticed a flush made for it, was never prompted to buy of noticed it before. Does anyone else use this when changing oil in diamond drive? how do you assure it is all out of there before adding fresh oil or is it an alcohol wash and will evaporate. Just wondering if anyone had any input on this
 

favoritos

Well-known member
I used to use the flush kit for each change. Not sure what is in the fancy schmancy kit. The DD on my sleds seemed to hold up fairly well. Bud never did his over the years. He had two fail in the same miles. I figured it was cheap insurance and kept me riding. I wish I could say for sure that flushing was the difference. Maybe, maybe not?
 

euphoric1

Well-known member
Favoritos, first.. thank you for your input, did you allow unit to sit for a bit for flush to clear or dry out or maybe use light compressed air to blow it out as best could? I just know it takes very little solvent to dilute lubricants and don't want a bigger issue if there was still some remaining flush in the case. Again thank you for your response

I used to use the flush kit for each change. Not sure what is in the fancy schmancy kit. The DD on my sleds seemed to hold up fairly well. Bud never did his over the years. He had two fail in the same miles. I figured it was cheap insurance and kept me riding. I wish I could say for sure that flushing was the difference. Maybe, maybe not?
 

favoritos

Well-known member
I didn't even split the case open most of the time. (I split the case if I had a leaking seal etc.) Most of the time I just spun it by hand with the flush in the case and let it drain good before putting in new oil.

I did have a couple of times that needed a new o ring on the plug. Maybe check that as you get started.
Also, there are two different size refill kits. Can't remember for sure, but I think the 07 takes smaller kit with the extra reverse gears filling the case.
 

euphoric1

Well-known member
yes, mine is a lxr with reverse, I will check or just replace o-ring just to be safe of no leaks, cheap insurance. Thank you again, I will flush it
 

ezra

Well-known member
most important thing to look for is exclusive brass in the oil . that is telling you the 5 pinion is on its way out and if it lets go most of the time it takes the whole drive out . the brass is the little shims in the sides of the small 5 pinion bearings
 

euphoric1

Well-known member
ezra, looking at parts breakdown, not sure which you are talking about if I do see it

most important thing to look for is exclusive brass in the oil . that is telling you the 5 pinion is on its way out and if it lets go most of the time it takes the whole drive out . the brass is the little shims in the sides of the small 5 pinion bearings
 

euphoric1

Well-known member
Drained, put flush in, allowed to sit a minute, shook sled side to side and drained. Old oil came out clean but know its the wear additives and shear ability that lost, just because clean doesn't mean good, very little residue on drain plug magnet, changed o-ring on fill plug and gasket on drain plug per another post. Refilled oil hopefully good to go, one other tid bit was told not to put Loctite on secondary bolt as diamond drive unit vents through threads of bolt, there was no Loctite on it when I removed it, hopefully that info was correct.
 
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