I see EPI clutch kits here and there for sale for around $180. How much improvement will I get from one of these? My fusion 600 has around 4500 - 5000 miles on it (1500 on the rebuilt engine), so it's probably time to go through the clutches anyway. Just curious. I wouldn't mind waking it up a little as long as I'm not doing anything to the engine.
EPI Clutch kit - worth the money for a 600 Fusion?
- Thread starter Hoosier
- Start date
indy_500
Well-known member
Definatly go thru the clutches, new springs is a must. I order all my clutch parts from epi. For stock performance, they recommend the red primary spring, which is PS-5 http://www.epiperformance.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=EPI&Product_Code=PS-5 and for high engagement they recommend the yellow primary spring which is PS-7 http://www.epiperformance.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=EPI&Product_Code=PS-7 . They recommend PS-7 for my 05 xc sp 500 also as the high engagement spring, I really like it. It is really snappy. For your secondary they recommend the PDS-18 which is orange. They recommend the same one for my 500 so i got that. http://www.epiperformance.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=EPI&Product_Code=PDS-18
All in all, you should be replacing clutch springs at least every other year. Keep in mind, when the clutch sits, the spring is compressed therefore losing spring tension over time. Your clutch weight bushings are probably starting to get ovaled out too. http://www.epiperformance.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=EPI&Product_Code=WB You need the correct sized socket and you can just pound out the old bushing and put in a new one. The weight bushings keep the weights from being off-kilter and wear out over time. I replaced them on my 500 when I got it (2000 miles) but now I know my clutches are practically brand new.
As far as clutch kits go, I would never buy one. I like to mix and match parts so I buy clutch parts individually. The helix for the team secondary is the biggest cost factor. It's not as simple as button clutch helixes. The other part in clutch kits are weights. Typically, a clutch kit has 2 gram heavier weights. For $70 You can get 3 new weights with the bushings in them already (so basically $50, if you were going to replace the bushings on your old ones). Heavier weights do bring down the top end some.
All in all, you should be replacing clutch springs at least every other year. Keep in mind, when the clutch sits, the spring is compressed therefore losing spring tension over time. Your clutch weight bushings are probably starting to get ovaled out too. http://www.epiperformance.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=EPI&Product_Code=WB You need the correct sized socket and you can just pound out the old bushing and put in a new one. The weight bushings keep the weights from being off-kilter and wear out over time. I replaced them on my 500 when I got it (2000 miles) but now I know my clutches are practically brand new.
As far as clutch kits go, I would never buy one. I like to mix and match parts so I buy clutch parts individually. The helix for the team secondary is the biggest cost factor. It's not as simple as button clutch helixes. The other part in clutch kits are weights. Typically, a clutch kit has 2 gram heavier weights. For $70 You can get 3 new weights with the bushings in them already (so basically $50, if you were going to replace the bushings on your old ones). Heavier weights do bring down the top end some.
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vic_junior
Member
Save your money and stick to stock parts. I have a fusion 700 and put an epi kit in it. My kit came with two primary springs. Both only lasted less than a 1000miles. You can barely notice any difference in power. Only significant notice is engagements at higher rpms. My 700 has more torque than a 600, just letting you know my experience. Right now I'm back to all stock parts. Tired of worring about breaking springs.
Thanks for the tips....seems like the kits aren't worth the money, even at the end of season prices.
Indy, I think I might drop my sled off at your house sometime this summer. I'm sure if it sits there long enough, you'll do some maintenance on it. You just won't be able to help yourself
.
Indy, I think I might drop my sled off at your house sometime this summer. I'm sure if it sits there long enough, you'll do some maintenance on it. You just won't be able to help yourself
.
indy_500
Well-known member
Indy, I think I might drop my sled off at your house sometime this summer. I'm sure if it sits there long enough, you'll do some maintenance on it. You just won't be able to help yourself
yeah.... urhmm.... you wouldn't get it back, trust me
indy_500
Well-known member
I did have R-12 helix, 62 g weights, silver primary, and don't remember what secondary spring in my 700. I never realized the primary spring was broke till i took it apart! Don't know what brand the kit was. I traded the R-12 helix for a stock used R-11 due to motor mount problems.
More aggressive helix's are harder on everything. They can be to blame for broken motor mounts.
IMO Poo springs aren't much better than EPI. Poo springs are $40, EPI, $25. between my 2 sleds and my dads, that's 3 sleds. New primary and secondary springs each year equals 6 springs. 6x25=150 6x40=240 As long as I keep replacing them every year, epi is the way I will go.
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This is a great subject. But its not simple. Your clutches are due for service and even replacing with stock parts there will be a noticable improvement. Indy is right about price difference, and higher quality. EPI and Hot Seat make great kits and seperate parts. If your not replacing springs yearly go with titainium springs as they do not sag. [5yr warr]? The first thing I do is decide what I want the sled to do, and how I ride, trail or backcountry or both? Then I call both places and talk to the Techs. I ask how I can achieve my goals? Get the spring specs and go from there. They will mix and and match to build you a custom kit. And give you the kit price. Or find a local polaris mech that is a known clutch tuner, ask him what works best. I never liked the stock [aftermarket] kits engagement, way to high for me. Thats why building your own is the way to go. Also if you put a EPI or H.S. helix next to your old stock poo part its like night and day diff. in quality. The arms need to be replaced also, remember to balance the new ones
on a digital scale. Consider balancing primary and 2ndry after the rebuild also. Alignment is also very critical. I got lucky at Hay Days one year and bought a box of 800 edge aftermarket clutch parts for 50 bucks. Mostly new or used 1x stuff, found a EPI 3 step helix in the box that was awesome. If you really want to learn the dynamics of clutch tuning buy Earlandson's book on Tuning its a good read. Man I used to live for this stuff, kinda like Indy does now. LOL Good Luck, at least time is on your side.
on a digital scale. Consider balancing primary and 2ndry after the rebuild also. Alignment is also very critical. I got lucky at Hay Days one year and bought a box of 800 edge aftermarket clutch parts for 50 bucks. Mostly new or used 1x stuff, found a EPI 3 step helix in the box that was awesome. If you really want to learn the dynamics of clutch tuning buy Earlandson's book on Tuning its a good read. Man I used to live for this stuff, kinda like Indy does now. LOL Good Luck, at least time is on your side.
chiefcheese
Member
I found a EPI kit with the helix and springs (new) on ebay for 50 bucks. Think I will try it anyway and see as I have read on many forums that some like it some don't. I really am interested in what you are saying that this kit needs tuning. Just tuning primary springs or ? after switching helix and secondary springs....
indy_500
Well-known member
Take the snap ring off and it all comes apart.
vic_junior
Member
Take out the torque screws that bolt the helix down. Make sure you use a good torx bit. If there are hard coming out, try heating them up and make sure you get a good bite otherwise you will working on it all day for some tiny screw. After Helix comes out push down the roller and take off snap ring. If you don't have a clutch compressor, I have used to hammers with rubber ends and had someone push the roller down and then I took out the snap ring. Not hard to do if you have an extra hand around. When putting everything back together, the roller will one go in one way because of the teeth on the inside. Some helix's I've put back in don't go in smoothly, just make sure before you put the screws back in, the holes are lined up and it's flush with the secondary.
vic_junior
Member
Not a bad idea Indy. I'll keep this in mind next time I take my clutch apart. Do those clamps shift much or does it keep the clutch pretty tight?
indy_500
Well-known member
It keeps it pretty tight. The EPI springs are longer than Polaris springs, so it's harder to put the primary together with an EPI spring.