Floor protection and pattern for inline trailer

[Snowaddict]

Hopefully, this is the right spot to post this. I just purchased my first enclosed (non clam shell) trailer. It's a 7x19' (14' box and 5' V nose) Lightning inline trailer. Since you have to stagger the sleds to get them to fit, I'm wondering what type of positioning you use for floor protection. All my sleds are studded. So, first off any suggestions on type of protection itself? And what pattern would you use? Seems like trying to lay down ski guides side by side and 2 middle traction mats would be too much and awkward. What are any of the rest of you using for inlines? Any pics would be great as well. Thanks in advance.

 

[gary_in_neenah]

I've had good luck with the Caliber stuff for mats and ski guides. I'd also recommend stainless steel for attachments. It'll look better and last longer.

 

[mrbb]

if you go to the caliber site they have a tool there, where you enter the size of your trailer, and they will show you the lay out they recommend, and then all what is needed to make it happen!

Trailer Configuration

www.caliberproductsinc.com

 

[wiscrev]

Caliber is top notch. Their layouts for mats and guides are spot on.

 

[Snowaddict]

Wow, that configuration page is nice on the Caliber site. Didn't know there were so many options. Might get pricey. Was also thinking about doing just the ramps and a little ways into the trailer, as I might just use dollys once they're inside to move them to the actual traveling position.

 

[wiscrev]

Wow, that configuration page is nice on the Caliber site. Didn't know there were so many options. Might get pricey. Was also thinking about doing just the ramps and a little ways into the trailer, as I might just use dollys once they're inside to move them to the actual traveling position.

Make sure you get the piece/s that cover the gap between the door and the floor of the trailer and also the top edge of the door when down.. In both places you can hang up on the carbides when loading and unloading and tear up the floor. I did use, I think, a 1x4 between the door and floor until I got the rest of the system installed.

 

[Snowaddict]

Make sure you get the piece/s that cover the gap between the door and the floor of the trailer and also the top edge of the door when down.. In both places you can hang up on the carbides when loading and unloading and tear up the floor. I did use, I think, a 1x4 between the door and floor until I got the rest of the system installed.

I did notice those gap pieces right away. Great add on, esp if trying to roll on the sled on dollys or some of the wheeled hoists they have out there.

 

[mrbb]

another simple thing to use between trailer ramp door and trailer floor, is using a piece of PVC pipe, it will save things from getting chewed up and is rather cheap and simple thing to use
it what I used to use before they came out with the official one's
I would simply cut a piece of like 2 inch Dia. or what ever size needed the width of the door way opening, and drop it in the gap when loading unloading sleds, my trailer was tall enough I could just stick it in a corner of trailer when done standing up, and then could also be grabbed easily from outside the trailer when needed!
so food for thought for you if you wanted to save a few bucks/ and still protect things!

 

[mrbb]

another thing to maybe consider, or find useful!
as I always wondered why more trailer company's didn;'t do this to there trailers

BUT at the entrance/exit of most snowmobile trailers ,, the walls stick out into the floor, to allow for the framing!
so when backing a sled out, you could possibly get a ski caught
Worthington Trailer company used to add these diamond plates to all there snowmobile designated trailers to solve this issue
I have a few friends that seen it on mine and made there own, using some diamond plate aluminum, or just plywood!
it can be a petty simple deal to add, or as fancy as one wants to get
I also used to be able to store things behind mine, like a jack, and again the PVC pipe I used for the gap between ramp and trailer floor!
as well as other things! made like a small pocket to hold things in! which is always nice, as never seem to have enough space in a trailer fur all things!
my rear one's are aluminum diamond plate and the front ramp is just plywood!! but came from factory this way!, Other trailer makers need to step up IMO! on this set up, all the more so, since worthington went out of business now 2 yrs ago, , so guess they can steal the idea now worry free HAHA!

a few pictures top see what I mean!, not the best pic's but what I have handy!

 

[Interceptor]

I believe all that stuff is seriously overpriced. I just put down 1/4“ plywood on the trailer floor and the ramps. Used sections of an old track on the ramps for traction. Been using it two seasons and barely has any damage.(yes I Have studs) If something gets chewed up Ill replace that piece…….

 

[mrbb]

I believe all that stuff is seriously overpriced. I just put down 1/4“ plywood on the trailer floor and the ramps. Used sections of an old track on the ramps for traction. Been using it two seasons and barely has any damage.(yes I Have studs) If something gets chewed up Ill replace that piece…….

yes caliber products are not cheap but honestly, with crazy high wood prices still, neither is ply wood any more LOL

and the draw back to using plywood, is, your trapping moisture under it, which will rot out the wood under it over time,(can also cause mold to grow under it) thus the advantage of the plastic ski guides and mats, that allow for air under them, as well as there designed to allow things to expand and contract as humidity changes !

so there is a value to be had in using things like caliber products
there like an investment, if you look at them, and over time, they will make the trailer floor last a lot longer than other things !

 

[wiharley02]

I use "ski slips" (ski boots by SLP) on the skis so the carbides don't dig into the floor and cause lots of extra drag and damage to the floor. I have no floor protection. Just traction mats on each door. Once the sled is driven up the ramp and just into the trailer, I stop driving it further, get off, and walk/pull it in with minimal or no throttle, pretty easy to pull a sled by the front bumper on a flat surface with ski slips on when the engine is idling. This does minimal damage to the floor. I have e-track rails down the edges and one down the center of the trailer so tie down points are almost infinite. I like having less stuff on the floor, for when using the trailer for non-sledding purposes. Unloading, I start the sleds and let them warm up 2-3 minutes, and grab the front bumpers and pull them right out. Bonus on unloading them this way, you don't hit your head on the top of the door frame when driving them out since you aren't kneeling on the seat and paying more attention to other things.

Word of warning on the ski-slips, when driving up the front ramp, the skis can easily track sideways since the carbides aren't biting and you can catch a ski-slip or ski edge on the door frame on the way in. I added some side-guides on the edges of the front ramp door to prevent too much sideways tracking into the door frame. I used 3x3x1/4 aluminum angle, beveled and smoothed/deburred the vertical part of the angle at the bottom and top of the ramp. Caliber-type companies sell edge guides too.

 

[Eric_b]

I used 1/2" rubber stall mats from Tractor Supply 3' X 4' is $32. They seem very durable. They are on the heavy side, so I needed to adjust the spring on the door.

 

[favoritos]

I believe all that stuff is seriously overpriced. I just put down 1/4“ plywood on the trailer floor and the ramps. Used sections of an old track on the ramps for traction. Been using it two seasons and barely has any damage.(yes I Have studs) If something gets chewed up Ill replace that piece…….

Been doing this method with some modifications.
I cover the floor with BCX and use guides along the edges of the door ramps. I planned to use old tracks for traction up the middle of the doors. All I had laying around were too tall. I have used old hyfax that I cut down into about two foot sections and screwed those across the door ramps. I've also used the Caliber trax grabber in the middle of the ramps. The hyfax is cheap, light, and easy to clean. I did find that the grabber method was easier to walk on when things were slippery. It was a little more effort to clean.

The trailer gets quite a bit of use and rarely sees a good melt. Snow and ICE build up a lot. There is a stiff hand broom by each ramp and we sweep snow and ice chunks off the ramps before closing. We have the fold down gap covers with the last trailer and ice likes to build up under the flap if it isn't kept clean. The PVC pipe method sound interesting. One goal of flooring has been to make it simple to use and clean. I will add that things would be a whole lot easier if the trailer was melted and dry between trips. The cleaning routine probably wouldn't be as important.

 

[Go Fast or Go Home]

What mrbb said. ^^^^

Don~

 

[tpski]

I'm currently installing caliber products in my new 19' legend inline right now. For what was spent on the trailer, it's worth spending a little more to protect it. I also agree what mrbb said......

 

[Tuck]

I went with Mateflex in the trailer to get an even floor for non sled use of the trailer. video link and website link below. will look for some pics of the trailer and try to post latter is anyone is interested.

Tennis Court Flooring | Pickleball Court Tiles » Mateflex - Mateflex

Matéflex II is the modular flooring choice for inline hockey, basketball, shuffleboard, pickleball and tennis court resurfacing and is great for backyard courts.

www.mateflex.com

 

[Snowaddict]

I went with Mateflex in the trailer to get an even floor for non sled use of the trailer. video link and website link below. will look for some pics of the trailer and try to post latter is anyone is interested.

Tennis Court Flooring | Pickleball Court Tiles » Mateflex - Mateflex

Matéflex II is the modular flooring choice for inline hockey, basketball, shuffleboard, pickleball and tennis court resurfacing and is great for backyard courts.

www.mateflex.com

This stuff looks good, but is it actually thick enough to protect from studs? Also, how much did you spend? Wondering what it would cost to cover at least the box of my 19' trailer.

 

[Snowaddict]

I'm currently installing caliber products in my new 19' legend inline right now. For what was spent on the trailer, it's worth spending a little more to protect it. I also agree what mrbb said......

What type of pattern did you go with and what was the cost?

 

[wiviperman]

https://www.costco.com/motofloor-modular-garage-flooring-tiles-48-square-feet-per-box-1'-x-1'-tiles.product.100009181.html
I'm currently installing garage floor tiles that I found at Costco. I have seen other trailers done with these & I really liked how it looks. My Trailer is a 7x19 14' box + 5' V-nose Look Avalanche, I use it has a multi-sport trailer as I haul motorcycles during the "off" season.
I have in-floor tie downs that I simply used a hole-saw to cut out to retain access to the D-rings. I'm going with a silver & black checker board pattern. I'm trying to have it done before Christmas, currently waiting on another box of tiles to arrive. I will post pictures when it's completed.