sean34590577
New member
I'm changing the track on a 2005 edge chassis this weekend and was wondering if the experts could help me from start to finish please?? Also Happy Thanksgiving!! I'm thankful for the wise on here that help!!
Help changing a track out for first time.
- Thread starter sean34590577
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groomerdriver
New member
Go slow....take your time.....take pictures of the complicated assys as they come apart....as you take a part off, lay it down in order of disassembly.....know where to find a parts breakdown online just in case....change your clutch side bearings while you're at it.......
Tonight I started tearing down my 05 Vector to put a new Ripsaw Quiet Track on it. This will be the 2nd track that I've put on it.
Tonight I started tearing down my 05 Vector to put a new Ripsaw Quiet Track on it. This will be the 2nd track that I've put on it.
indy_500
Well-known member
Make sure it's jacked up high for starters. Start out by loosening the track tension all the way. Next, take out the 2 rear skid bolts located on the tunnel (down by your feet) after that, you can take out the front 2. Remove the skid. Next, drain the chaincase oil, remove pipe and can. You should have a drain plug under the chaincase under the belly pan. You can remove the exhaust as its draining. Next remove the chaincase cover, loosen the chain tensioner bolt all the way, remove the lower gear bolt (hopefully its not sheared). Next, remove the secondary clutch, and the speedo driveshaft housing located on the clutch side of the driveshaft. Now you have everything free and can finaggle the driveshaft out of there. When installing, if you need any torque specs, just let us know!
groomerdriver
New member
You make it sounds so easy!!! LOL!!!
indy_500
Well-known member
That's because when you do it a dozen times, it is!
L
lenny
Guest
I've learned to just do it, you'll always figure it out
1flatlander2
Member
i start on the clutch side and work my way around to the chain case. so just the opposite of indy but it shouldn't take more than a couple hours. and when you have your suspension out go through it also.
polarisrider1
New member
An edge is about the easiest sled in the world to change a track on. I don't even remove the chaincase cover. There is just enough room to slide the drive shaft over to get it out of the bearing on secoundary clucth side. Most certainly change the bearing at this time. make sure the sealed side of the bearing is facing out not in. Changing a track is easy, but to type instructions is not. this will make you dangerous http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6_gLTzePJuE I leave the drive shaft in and never had an issue. I even leave the secondary on and remove bolts from speedo housing using a rachet with a swivel socket, the slide the bearing retainer (the 3 bolt part that holds bearing on inside of tunnel) inward over the drive shaft, slide bearing same direction then shove the drive shaft towards the chaincase to get drive shaft to drop down. Then you can slide track of drive shaft. I have never had an issue doing it this way. I do hang the back of sled from garage rafters up about 2-3 feet off the ground. remove the 4 bolts and slide back half of suspension out first. (I have things out of order here). remove suspension first. And always replace the drive bearing and look for suspension cracks and loose idler wheels, etc.
I forgot to mention and BK brought it up, if you have 2 drivers and they are external drivers then I leave chaincase in tact. with 4 drivers or internal drivers you will want to remove drive shaft so you don't have to wrestle around with the track while sled is hanging. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CG0PTSAekTA
I forgot to mention and BK brought it up, if you have 2 drivers and they are external drivers then I leave chaincase in tact. with 4 drivers or internal drivers you will want to remove drive shaft so you don't have to wrestle around with the track while sled is hanging. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CG0PTSAekTA
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sean34590577
New member
THANK YOU GUYS for taking the time,and sharing with me what to look for!! I would take the tq.specs if you guys have them. Thanks again for everything! Doing it tomorrow. I already know I have a limiter strap that I need. Would like to do both. Can't seem to find them anywhere. Thanks again, Sean
sean34590577
New member
Yes I did, We actually took 2 apart. 1 for track change,2nd 1 same sled had the chain case issue with the broken bolt head. now were fixing the bolts on both. Mine has had 2 broken bolts. 700 miles then again at 1400. We were wondering torque specs on re-install plus if anyone knows how big of bolt I can put back in. Any help? Thanks again for everything!!
sean34590577
New member
Thanks rp7x!!
indy_500
Well-known member
How did I know? LOL Drill and tap it out to 3/8 like rp7x said, use a good grade 8 bolt 1/4" longer than the original 5/16" bolt they use. Blue loctite and torque to 19 ft. lbs
sean34590577
New member
Thanks Indy 500 the legend!! Can you help me find the bearing I need please? Can I get that anywhere? size,part # ? any help thanks in advance
sean34590577
New member
also how much chain case fluid,and how tight should i get the track and chain? thanks for your help!
indy_500
Well-known member
https://www.denniskirk.com/all-ball...t-bearing-and-seal-kit.p273224.prd/273224.sku (you said you have an 05 xc sp 500???) Here is the link to the All Balls Kit for either driveshaft or jackshaft. If you want to do both drive and jackshafts, order 2. They are the best bearings for the best price imo. Each kit includes chaincase and clutch side bearing, and chaincase seal. You should need about 12 oz. of chaincase fluid. To adjust the chain, loosen the nut on the tensioner bolt, finger tighten the bolt as tight as you can get it with your hands (NO TOOLS!) then loosen the bolt 1/4 turn (1-2 flats on a bolt head) and tighten the nut. For the track, with no weight on the track, you want 1" between the track and the slides 16" from the rear bogey wheels. OEM spec is slightly tighter, but the looser the track, the less vibration.