HELP Trailer Question

[Dgoz]

I have an aluminum enclosed r-n-r trailer and cannot seem to get the paint (Black) clean is there a special trailer wash out there to bring back the original luster thank you in advance for your help

 

[ezra]

one can only assume the harsh de icing chemicals they use on some roads and bridges now days reacted with paint. have u attempted to buff it out?
white is your friend on trailers and work trucks shows very little. black is your worst nightmare around a week after new

 

[Dgoz]

No I have not tried to buff it not looking forward to that at all. I was hoping for a miracle potion to get the color back thanks ezra I don't post often but when I do I appreciate the input.

 

[eagle1]

https://www.everbritecoatings.com/trailer.htm
Never used it just did google search.

 

[ezra]

the paint on some of the new trailers is not looking all that good to start with. I have looked at a few after picking up my new one. the grey looks like chit on a lot of them . almost has lines in it like it was all just inkjet printed or something .

 

[1fujifilm]

No I have not tried to buff it not looking forward to that at all. I was hoping for a miracle potion to get the color back thanks ezra I don't post often but when I do I appreciate the input.

Hello,
If you do decide to buff or wax the trailer make sure you "clay" it first. I have waxed a Triton and a Stealth right after I bought them new and they needed claying so bad it was terrible.

Frank

 

[Go Fast or Go Home]

I have an aluminum enclosed r-n-r trailer and cannot seem to get the paint (Black) clean is there a special trailer wash out there to bring back the original luster thank you in advance for your help

I also have had two RnR trailers. One was gray and the one I have now is black. They are a pain to keep clean without buffing them out which requires more time and effort than I'm willing to do. I take mine to the car wash bay and at least wash it with a brush after every trip.

If you find this magic product that will restore the trailers luster without me having to exert much physical effort please post it.

 

[goofy600]

No doubt it is oxidation of the paint and it is going to need to be buffed out then waxed like old cars they don't put finishes on them likes new cars, hate to think of cost if they put an automotive finish on a trailer.

 

[ezra]

No doubt it is oxidation of the paint and it is going to need to be buffed out then waxed like old cars they don't put finishes on them likes new cars, hate to think of cost if they put an automotive finish on a trailer.

a extra 50 bucks max. those sheets are run by the millions of feet at a run. 1 extra clear coat spread across the run of any given color pennies.
heck I would be happy if they just went back to the quality of panels just 10yrs ago

 

[groomerdriver]

Now I know that when I get an enclosed trailer it'll be white.......

 

[harski]

I've had some luck with NU Finish. I too have an R n R and as much as I dislike the overall product, the Charcoal metallic paint looks okay. I usually polish it in the beginning of the season and just wash it thoroughly the rest of the year. Good Luck!

 

[Dgoz]

thanks allot guys I did not think of nu finish and the task of using a clay bar is not one I am looking forward too. I'll let you all know about the everbrite product it should be here soon.

 

[ridesrx]

a extra 50 bucks max. those sheets are run by the millions of feet at a run. 1 extra clear coat spread across the run of any given color pennies.
heck I would be happy if they just went back to the quality of panels just 10yrs ago

Well probably more than $50 bucks. If you consider that they use a very inexpensive industrial single stage topcoat as it is right now.(which is why it chalks so fast, UV screeners are one of the most expensive components of the raw materials in paint) Adding clear would change the color to a base, then they have to bake that to make it dry productively in the manufacturing process, then clear the panels, again bake it to speed the drying process. The cost of the product is more per ounce, and the extra manufacturing process would add enough cost that people might not want to spend the extra money. It would open up a lot of new color options with base/clear, but again slow down the manufacturing process which will add cost.

To the original question- buffing it and keeping it protected it is the only way to keep it looking nice. Remember the film thickness on these things is very low, probably around 2 mils dry film thickness, possibly less, so stay off of the rivets as much as possible. If you are going to buff a black trailer use the finest compound you can get away away with, and a foam compounding pad running the buffer around 1500-1800 rpm's. If your rpm's are too fast you will just dry out the compound and it won't be doing you any good. Keep the buffer flat, don't use the edge of the pad, and then slow the buffer down a little more, and hit it again with a black(soft) foam pad with a machine glaze to remove the compound swirl marks never buffing it all the way dry, and finish it with a 3M product called Ultrafina with their blue pad. It's full of mineral oil, but will make your black trailer look nice. Never buff it dry, wipe it off with a microfiber cloth. Then it's time for a protective wax. I like to put that on with a DA or a random orbital polisher. Again hand wipe off. Piece of cake right.

Like someone else said, with a white trailer the process is a lot simpler.