How many track clips do I need?

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groomerdriver

New member
Need to pretty much fully reclip a 121 x 15 x .91 Camoplast track. How many TOTAL clips will I need? I'll figure out the number of flat clips and side clips I need.

Thanks guys.
 
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G

Guest
96 unless it is not a fully clipped track. If it is a 2/3 clipper then 64 will do the job. What did you do to he poor thing?
 
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polarisrider1

New member
When I have recliped tracks I would do all with the sides on them. Little more weight but better in hard Ricky racer corner taking. Doing clips is a boring time consuming job. Use plenty of anti seeze on the tool threads.
 
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groomerdriver

New member
grub said:
96 unless it is not a fully clipped track. If it is a 2/3 clipper then 64 will do the job. What did you do to he poor thing?
Click to expand...

It is a fully clipped track. Every 3rd one has the side guide style clip on it.

What did I do to it Grub? Oh..in my constant quest to make things better...even on our old 98 Polaris Classic with almost 10K miles.....the front bar on the torsion spring slides back n forth on a plastic "holder/clip". That holder is mounted onto a steel sleeve which then bolts (and pivots) to the rails. The holders usually last a season or two before the bar rubs thru and starts wearing thru the sleeve. Polaris SKS/mountain skids have a different setup where the holder is 3/4 donut shaped and just slides on a idler wheel mount, so it is a bit lower than the holder/clip setup. This whole deal is hard to describe without pictures.

Well, what I didn't realize is that when you use the SKS setup, the torsion spring bars MUST be a bit shorter (I don't know for sure). I don't drive the sled....only the kids do and friends that I let borrow it when we go on a ride. I let a friend borrow it on a long ride one day...he didn't say anything sounded funny or anything.

I keep the sleds in a heated garage (my mancave) and one night I'm down there and just poking around on the sleds and I look at the track and on the RS of the track the side clips are bent over. *** I said.....I look at the LS and there are NO side clips sticking up anymore...they all got broken off.

When I used the SKS slider system the torsion bar is lower and when the skid is compressed the front of the bar hits the rubber track guides and clips. Most of the clips that have no sides have varying degrees of damage too. Some of the rubber track guides are damaged too but I figure I'll just use a side clip on the bad ones. Brand new sliders.....shot.

I learned of this "tip" on the internet a few years back and thought I'd give it a try this year. Oh well.....it's only money! I thought about looking for a good used track but I really don't want to tear it apart this season and the kids want to ride it.

Hope some of this makes sense.....

I already have a clip tool. This one works great!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Snowmobile-...ed-Hardened-/320880812273?hash=item4ab5fca0f1
 
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D.B. Cooper

Active member
groomerdriver said:
It is a fully clipped track. Every 3rd one has the side guide style clip on it.

What did I do to it Grub? Oh..in my constant quest to make things better...even on our old 98 Polaris Classic with almost 10K miles.....the front bar on the torsion spring slides back n forth on a plastic "holder/clip". That holder is mounted onto a steel sleeve which then bolts (and pivots) to the rails. The holders usually last a season or two before the bar rubs thru and starts wearing thru the sleeve. Polaris SKS/mountain skids have a different setup where the holder is 3/4 donut shaped and just slides on a idler wheel mount, so it is a bit lower than the holder/clip setup. This whole deal is hard to describe without pictures.

Well, what I didn't realize is that when you use the SKS setup, the torsion spring bars MUST be a bit shorter (I don't know for sure). I don't drive the sled....only the kids do and friends that I let borrow it when we go on a ride. I let a friend borrow it on a long ride one day...he didn't say anything sounded funny or anything.

I keep the sleds in a heated garage (my mancave) and one night I'm down there and just poking around on the sleds and I look at the track and on the RS of the track the side clips are bent over. *** I said.....I look at the LS and there are NO side clips sticking up anymore...they all got broken off.

When I used the SKS slider system the torsion bar is lower and when the skid is compressed the front of the bar hits the rubber track guides and clips. Most of the clips that have no sides have varying degrees of damage too. Some of the rubber track guides are damaged too but I figure I'll just use a side clip on the bad ones. Brand new sliders.....shot.

I learned of this "tip" on the internet a few years back and thought I'd give it a try this year. Oh well.....it's only money! I thought about looking for a good used track but I really don't want to tear it apart this season and the kids want to ride it.

Hope some of this makes sense.....

I already have a clip tool. This one works great!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Snowmobile-...ed-Hardened-/320880812273?hash=item4ab5fca0f1
Click to expand...

Since you have a .91 track, I'd lean towards purchasing a better track (used or take-off) Ripsaw or Cobra for better all around traction and braking (difference in braking between these 2 tracks is H-U-G-E!)

I've replaced track clips before, seemed like I burned up most of the day doing it, and the track clips themselves weren't cheap either
 
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raceinsnow

New member
I would say to replace the track. The track clips are not cheep, the time it takes to remove the rest of the bad ones and to install the new ones, replace the track.Also the new track clips don't stay on very well because you cant crimp them on as tight as the manufacture can. If you end up replacing the track clips once you will understand what I am talking about. Track clips that are burnt thru are because the hyfax have not been replaced as yearly maintenance. The hyfax get warm and sand,rocks,dirt melt into the plastic and grind the metal clips off, so just because the hyfax look great and have no ware to them it is still cheeper and quicker to change hyfax then track clips.
 
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groomerdriver

New member
raceinsnow said:
I would say to replace the track. The track clips are not cheep, the time it takes to remove the rest of the bad ones and to install the new ones, replace the track.Also the new track clips don't stay on very well because you cant crimp them on as tight as the manufacture can. If you end up replacing the track clips once you will understand what I am talking about. Track clips that are burnt thru are because the hyfax have not been replaced as yearly maintenance. The hyfax get warm and sand,rocks,dirt melt into the plastic and grind the metal clips off, so just because the hyfax look great and have no ware to them it is still cheeper and quicker to change hyfax then track clips.
Click to expand...

Kraven and racein = I get it about a different track. I've done this before....I already have most of the clips off and if an OEM can do a better job of installing a clip with the tool I have and an air impact, I'd like to see it. I fully clipped a track on my old Yamaha 4S and this tool crimps it as hard as you want it to.

Yea I know clips aren't cheap but neither are the Woody's studs that are in the current track. Time factor is a non-issue to me. Anything to get down in "The Cave" and avoid the Warden! :)
 
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