Indy 500XC Drive Clutch Questions

B

bigred_tr

New member
I always take off my Drive clutch every year for inspection.This year I have found my weights need replaced. The hole is egged shaped,pins hav grooves and also because of the weights hole was this way it started to wear the inside edge of the aluinium where the weight rides on the pin. It might be worn about 1/2 of a width of a washer.

My question is ...Can these areas be sanded down or something and then go ahead a get the clutch rebuild kit ?.. Or is my disk toast and have to get a new clutch ?

Also My sled is a 1999 500 XC.... How do I tell whitch clutch I have P85 ?? Whet is the difference with a norrow roller or wide ???

Anyone recommend where to find a rebuild kit of some sort...weights,pins,rollers,buttons ect....?

Been surf'n some but i guess I need to know what type of clutch 1st again how do I find out?

TX

BR
 
Last edited:
X

xcr440

Well-known member
How many miles? Just rebuilt the Primary on my 99 XC 500 this fall.

I had almost EXACTLY the same things that you describe, except my pins were still good.

Where do you live? Mike at DRH Specialty in Hastings, MN helped me out. You don't need to spend as much as you think.
 
B

bigred_tr

New member
Well I have 13,000 miles on the sled. Well maintanied :) ...I have changed the weights before but has been a while ago. I figured that I would just go ahead and replace all that I can to elimitnate any other possible failures. I have a friend that will be able to help me out for sure. I'm just worried that I might have to buy the clutch disk ( the parts diagram does not have a name or part number for this ) due to the wear near the bottom of the weight area.

In Michigan here..and TX for your reply...I will let all know what I come up with...Anyone else have more info would be appreciated. !

:)

BR
 
K

kraven700

Member
bigred_tr said:
Well I have 13,000 miles on the sled. Well maintanied :) ...I have changed the weights before but has been a while ago. I figured that I would just go ahead and replace all that I can to elimitnate any other possible failures. I have a friend that will be able to help me out for sure. I'm just worried that I might have to buy the clutch disk ( the parts diagram does not have a name or part number for this ) due to the wear near the bottom of the weight area.

In Michigan here..and TX for your reply...I will let all know what I come up with...Anyone else have more info would be appreciated. !

:)

BR
Click to expand...

You'd be better off purchasing a used complete primary. Swap in your new weights, add a brand new primary spring and you'll be money ahead.

I'd be willing to bet you've got a lot more parts to replace in your existing LOW MILEAGE clutch, and when you add that up, it'll be costly
 
D

doomsman

New member
If your bushings are in good shape just put the new rollers, pins and weights in and see how the weights line up. Clutches are not as finicky as some make out.
 
B

bigred_tr

New member
Big Question

Is P-85 or P-90 a type of clutch ? What is SPI or EPI ?

How do I know what tpye I have on my sled ?

Its a stock 1999 500 XC
 
indy_500

indy_500

Well-known member
bigred_tr said:
Is P-85 or P-90 a type of clutch ? What is SPI or EPI ?

How do I know what tpye I have on my sled ?

Its a stock 1999 500 XC
Click to expand...

You have a P-85, EPI and SPI are both aftermarket brands that sell clutch components. Everything from pullers to bushings I buy from EPI.
 
B

bigred_tr

New member
mmmm

I spoke with a guy at ronnies.com and he said most likely I have a P-90.

Is there any markings on my clutch to tell or how the heck do I know forsure?

TX

BR
 
K

kraven700

Member
You have a P-85.

You can log onto SNOWEST.com and at the top of the EDGE section, there's a link that takes you to the POLARIS site where you can download the official POLARIS owner's manual 4 page supplement.

Within that, all the specs are there, including the clutch info.

Here's the link:

http://www.polarisindustries.com/en-us/OurCompany/Parts-Manuals/PartsManuals/9914861r01.pdf

You may want to reference that for other helpful info as well.

Hope this helps
 
Last edited:
X

xcr440

Well-known member
You'd be surprised what taking it apart and seeing what you need before you buy anything will save you.

I'd start there, and even take it to someone who will and has all the parts on shelf. If the spider is worn next to the weight because the weight bushing and pin wore, you can replace the pin, weight bushing, and put in cat weight spacers where the spider is worn probably on just one side (They are steel and won't wear again) to make the weights stay straight for not too much.

The buttons on my primary were still in good shape, only one roller had gotten stiff, and needed to be freed up, otherwise they were good.
 
B

bigred_tr

New member
WoW TX

The information you provided Kraven700 is GREAT thanks a lot !


Anyone else know about the wear I am seeing on the clutch ?

I'm thinking that if I just file down tha area flat and ensure that the weight rides up on the roller properly and I should be good.

TX
 
B

bigred_tr

New member
More questions please !

upon insection the wear where the pins are located is not that bad. suggestion was maybe to put a steel washer on the pin ( if needed) in between the weight and the side of the clutch to make up for the worn area. I'm waiting to see how my new weights fit to see exactly how much side to side play there will be. This should determine if I need some kind of spacer/washer or not. As log as the weight ramps up the roller smothly and striaght we should be good is my thinking.

Should I be worried about beig out of balance or anything like that with the clutch??. Or this amount of weight and location is not a worry??

Has anyone done this on a clutch before?

Or should I just bite it and get a new clutch,new used ebay?

I have parts coming ( weights,pins rollers )

TX

BR
 
X

xcr440

Well-known member
Your thinking is right, as long as they move freely, and straight. The pin washer is an Arctic Cat clutch part. As far as balancing, if you add the same spacer to each pin, it won't throw it out of balance. Of course, you could always take it somewhere to get it balanced if you are concerned (Actually something Kraven suggests) for what, $15-$20?

I didn't rebalance mine, as the wear looked the same and I had the same tiny washer added to all 3 pins.
 
K

kraven700

Member
SLP balances the clutches for $35.00 (both halves as an assembly)

INDY Dan charges more, but each "half" is independently balanced, so you don't have an issue if you re-set your belt to sheave clearance.

The weights , I.M.O. should be weighed separately on your every day cocaine dealer's digital mini-scale
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top