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m10 suspension
- Thread starter treetrunk
- Start date
groomerdriver
New member
I've had a FAST M10 on my 05 Vector since 2007. Do you mean your rear track shock is fully compressing? Is this a FAST M10 or a Polaris M10?
It sounds like either:
A. Your skid is not properly set up at all
or
B. Your rear shock is blown
or
C. Your rear transfer blocks are shot
It sounds like either:
A. Your skid is not properly set up at all
or
B. Your rear shock is blown
or
C. Your rear transfer blocks are shot
I just got my rear redone yesterday and put it back on the only thing I did different was take out my small overload spring that was busted. Now when I hit the throttle hard the sled bottoms out shock. It's never done that before, there have been no problems in the past. I've had the sled for 8 years and this is the only change I've ever done to the suspension.
groomerdriver
New member
I just got my rear redone yesterday and put it back on the only thing I did different was take out my small overload spring that was busted. Now when I hit the throttle hard the sled bottoms out shock. It's never done that before, there have been no problems in the past. I've had the sled for 8 years and this is the only change I've ever done to the suspension.
If you pulled the overload spring and didn't really tighten up the main spring that's your problem. BUT, the OL spring is there for a reason and you should have bought a new one or found a used one.
What was "redone" on the skid? Polaris or FAST M10 (there is a difference).
groomerdriver
New member
its an m10 by fast I have the new spring ordered I'm just trying to see if I tighten that limiter strap if I could ride this weekend until spring comes
When did you change the white coupling blocks last? They only seem to last (to me) about 4000 miles. Also, if the M10 is in a Yamaha 4S you need to tell Brigette this as the coupling block are longer thus allowing for less transfer.
Personally I wouldn't touch the limiter strap. Just crank the rear spring as tight as you can and ride it that way.
1. Should have waited for the overload spring before reinstalling. This is why you are bottoming out.
2. If you are going to ride it without that spring, adjust the rear spring preload with the two side adjustments. Don't just crank it all the way up at once, small changes, 1/8" of an inch at a time makes a huge difference.
3. Remember where you started, so when you take the skid out to replace that spring, you know where it was before.
4. As for those plastic blocks, when you grease the fittings, squeeze some grease on the area where they slide. Since I started doing this, I haven't worn out one of those.
2. If you are going to ride it without that spring, adjust the rear spring preload with the two side adjustments. Don't just crank it all the way up at once, small changes, 1/8" of an inch at a time makes a huge difference.
3. Remember where you started, so when you take the skid out to replace that spring, you know where it was before.
4. As for those plastic blocks, when you grease the fittings, squeeze some grease on the area where they slide. Since I started doing this, I haven't worn out one of those.
groomerdriver
New member
4. As for those plastic blocks, when you grease the fittings, squeeze some grease on the area where they slide. Since I started doing this, I haven't worn out one of those.
Maybe I grease the blocks too much then? They get a workout on my Yamaha.
Maybe I grease the blocks too much then? They get a workout on my Yamaha.
I mean, where they slide in those metal brackets, squeeze some grease in there. Not on an actual fitting, just all over the plastic slider blocks themselves.
groomerdriver
New member
I mean, where they slide in those metal brackets, squeeze some grease in there. Not on an actual fitting, just all over the plastic slider blocks themselves.
Yea I know what you mean. Mine get mis-shappen and wear really quick. It's like the angle of that whole assembly isn't quite right and it wants to wear a certain way.
Yea I know what you mean. Mine get mis-shappen and wear really quick. It's like the angle of that whole assembly isn't quite right and it wants to wear a certain way.
When I first got the skid, they looked like that. After I replaced them, I continued to regularly grease them, and they are still block shaped, hardly any noticeable wear.
raceinsnow
New member
The m-10 shocks receive more nitrogen gas pressure( 300psi). Check with the shock rebuilder and find out if thats what they put in the shock.With no spring on the shock it is very hard to compress the shock with a 300 psi charge.