Minor basement ceiling water damage

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scott_l

Member
So I was out in the garage yesterday and I hear the wife yelling, I run inside to find the toilet over flowing. I quickly turn off the shut off valve to the toilet and start throwing down towels. Long story short I walk down stairs and I hear drip, drip, drip. O great water is dripping down through the subfloor. I cut a hole in the bottom of our bathroom vanity (wouldn’t you know it there was a floor joyce directly below the vanity) and I remove a small section of sub floor below the vanity. There did not appear to be a lot of water that got in there but some. I got a fan in there to start drying things out as quickly as possible. I walk down stairs a little while after and you could see where the water fallowed the sheet rock seam (on the celling). So I turned on the fire place and directed a fan towards the wet area. This morning everything is dry on the surface but I am sure it is still a little damp in there.

The question I have is how can I touch up the basement celling (this morning a light shade of yellow about 3’ long ½”-1” wide in spots). I don’t think paint is a great idea as I am guessing the new paint will be “whiter” then the current. Bleach, some other way?

On a side note to all…..walk your wife and kids around the house and show them the shut off valves to the toilets, sinks and the main water shut off in the basement, as you never know when you won’t be around!
 
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upbarleyboy

New member
Glad to hear the damage wasn't too bad. As far as trying to get things to match with the touchup, not sure of the exact color you have there, but it's probably going to be pretty tough. Also, is your current pain gloss, satin, flat? Alot of things to factor in. If you want it done right, you're probably going to have to hit the water spots with Kilz (a primer that covers water spots and stains). There are other brands out there, but Kilz seems to work the best in my opinion. After that dries, re-paint the ceiling. Probably not the way you wanted to go, but if you want it done right, that's the route I would go. Good luck!!!!
 
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harlybob

Member
Kilz it, and repaint.

If you see mold from prior leakage, Tilex in a spray bottle for mold is awesome. Works on white vinal boats seats as well, plasterboard, you name it. Had a freezer in the garage, the warmth from the coils grew an outline of mold on the wall. Cleaned up in minutes. Moved the freezer, no grow back of mold to date.
 
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ezra

Well-known member
in most watter damage situations I use a meat injector and poke it up through the rock and blast it with bleach how much and how many holes depends on how bad the watter damage was.
as far as paint most of the time if home owner dose not want a full paint job we use high hiding ceiling white from hirshfields for popcorn ceilings roll the stain then feather out with a 4 in brush and just stipple it til it passes for good enough.
 
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ezra

Well-known member
also if you have a painted ceiling just go to a closet or other inconspicuous area and cut out a quarter size chunk of ceiling paint just the first layer of paper and paint and have it matched.
and if your paper seam starts to come loose latex caulk under the lift and work it in under the paper usually will make it stick and the just feather the caulk across the crack you can usually loose them
 
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7707

New member
Kilz (oil base), the water based kilz, and Zinssers Latex 123 will seal out light water damage (Sometimes it may take two coats).
But if you want to make it go away for good the only thing that is 99% effective on water damage is Zinsser B-I-N Shellac Base primer, Ultimate stain blocker. Sometimes on a white ceiling its only noticeable in the right light and angle ( it dose have a sheen when it dries).
If you can see it after you use the B-i-n, paint the whole ceiling with a good ceiling paint. Save the left over paint because it will happen again and again. Good luck, hope it works out so you don't end up painting the whole ceiling.
 
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scott_l

Member
thanks for all the info guys............I am not afraid of the time/work to paint the entire ceiling, but the crappy part is moving all the furniture yada/yada (the prep work). The problem area is in our living room so a lot of stuff would have to be moved :(
 
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eyeman

Active member
If the joint compound did not bubble, just use the Kilz. Get it in a spray can and you can feather the color back into the ceiling white by using less paint the further you get from the stain. Just thin out the coverage as you get further from the stain. It's not as good a an entire paint job, but does work. Good luck.
 
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lenny

Guest
even with the best of stain blocker (kilz, zinzer etc,,,) you may need a 2ND or 3rd coat of the product. I always use SW ceiling white and in a low natural light area you can repaint the affected area and be unnoticeable. High natural light with flat ceiling paint may flash on you and thus the need for the entire ceiling repaint. Another tip, if you keep record of your paints you can speed up the process of the job but just rolling the entire ceiling and no need to cut in, that is if you know the color and finish. I can paint a ceiling 5 years later with the same color of the same manufacturer and no need to cut it in, at least with SW paint, it always a dead match.
 
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