Pinewood derby car

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tomxc700

New member
It's been a long time but I thought that the weight had to be solid mounted to the car, and nothing could move but the wheels on the car. But that is a good idea and nobody would be able to quickly mod it at the track.
 
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fireman35

New member
Some good ideas here. my son and i cut the wheel width so there was less wheel touching the track, add graphite and lead weight to the rear of the wedge design and waula you have a winner.
 
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elf

Well-known member
Our rules are no moving parts so the weight has to be solidly mounted. Thats also why I didn't make the boom operational!! Also we can polish wheels but can't remove material from them except on the hubs. There you can remove some so there is not as much friction rubbing against the car. Keys are polishing the axles (get rid of the burr on the nail head), put all the weight at the rear so it pushes for a split second longer, move the axles as close to the front and rear of the car as allowed to increase the wheel base (when doing so also look if you can mount one front wheel slightly high so it actually doesn't contact ground to reduce rolling resistance) and be sure wheels/axles are as true as possible. I didn't spend as much time on trueing up wheels as I should have this year. Last years car would've kicked butt but my wife had the wrong date on the calendar so I was still painting the car after the race had already been held!
 
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yamahauler

Active member
o.k. for next year...lets get this topic going when the kits come out and see if we can get enough info so the parents can help the kids build 1st place cars..then ya need to post a pic of the hardware.
 
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