Polaris 02 700xcsp 10,000 Miles

obob

Member
I have an 02 700 xcsp, The day i rolled odometer over the 10,000 mile mark the Mag side burned down.
I wasn't stranded just herd a little different sound and less power from the engine. when at home the next day
looked into the cyl with a light and could see it wasn't same appearance as the other cyl piston.
Tore it down and lots of detonation marks and/or damage from piston pieces, (Top outer edge and ring land).
with 10,000 mile i'm not complaining. I did have full tank fresh premium fuel and can of seafoam in her that day.
Mag side was the bad side ! 2 new pistons, rings, 1 cyl and hone opposite cyl. Carb boots look fine (very close inspection) Tore down carbs, extremely clean, jets are clear, Ves valves functioning fine (always clean almost every year and new gaskets) they were cleaned last year and rode low miles last year.
Now after top end rebuild and per break in instructions of add 1 pint 2 cycle oil per every 5 gals fuel.
Rode it 50 miles runs great, I'm just trying be cautious, Pulled plugs and it appears that that mag side piston dome is washed a little more clean than the clutch side dome and the plug appeared to be wet'er. both dark obviously with oil mix richer. However my concern is, if the additional oil wasn't in the tank it may be to lean. not sure!
Any experienced expertise would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
 

indy_500

Well-known member
Replace the water pump belt behind the recoil housing $12 at napa I'll get the # for u for the gates belt. Polaris wants $65. That belt also drives the oil pump. Did ur oil level in tank drop like it should? Should b somewhere between 100-150 miles per quart. Varies how u ride.
 

indy_500

Well-known member
5MR-450-09 Gates Power Grip. Can get it at most auto parts stores or online. I paid $12 at napa. Make sure all lines and hoses are hooked up, no air leaks, etc.
 

obob

Member
The belt was not broken, I checked my records and i replaced it in March of 2009.
Yes, I am replacing the Mag side crank seal. I do believe that is the original culprit of that cylinder going bad.
The water pump shaft end that drives the oil pump is also quite worn. Parts will be here tomorrow.
I can't believe a dealer in Grand Rapids had every thing, Mag side Crank seal, water pump shaft, seal and gasket.
I marked the position of the stator, I had also removed the TPS to get at, and remove and check the brass oil line feed check valve at the carb. Any input on making sure i get the Tps set right would be appreciated.
Thanks
 
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