Polaris 99 secondary removal

[xcr440]

Any suggestions for getting the secondary off the shaft on a 99 SKS?

Rusted tight, been spraying with WD-40 in the key hole, letting it sit for a day at a time, obviously no budge since I'm asking.

How much if any pressure with a flat bar can I put on the back of that clutch against the tunnel by the jackshaft? Not a good idea? Any other ideas that work?

 

[mjkaliszak]

I'm a big supporter of PB blaster. I never had the secondary stuck, always the Primary. I know that is not much help, how about PB, jack it, run it get the clutch working and warmed up, spray again with PB, tap on shaft w/ brass, spray again, try to get it to soak in. ect.... Just an idea. I wish I could be of more help. PB Blaster does work extremely well if you can get it to soak in. Of course , I would loose my patience and start putting heat to it, spray with PB, tap, dump cold water on it , heat again ect... trying to get the expansion / contraction thing going . When all else fails put a puller on it then destroy it then buy another. Pull the shaft and press it off ?
Nothing too constructive coming out of me today, Sorry.

 

[mikedrh]

We usually try a bunch of stuff before we bite the bullet and pull the jack shaft out of the machine so you can put it in a press.

Try cutting a 2 X 4 into a long (very long) taper. The longer the taper (less angle) the better it works. You can drive it down behind the secondary with a dead blow from the top. Make sure your wedge is on the helix and the jackshaft bearing and not the clutch. The wood won't hurt the helix but, use your head more than the hammer.

By doing this we can usually get lots of them off that we would have normally pulled the shaft and put it in a press.

Mike

 

[mjkaliszak]

Hey how about running it with the bolt & spacer out. let the lateral movement jerk it around. May loosen it up. Like the wood idea with the shallow angle, 15 deg ??? but use 2 boards 1 on each side.

 

[D.B. Cooper]

Any suggestions for getting the secondary off the shaft on a 99 SKS?

Rusted tight, been spraying with WD-40 in the key hole, letting it sit for a day at a time, obviously no budge since I'm asking.

How much if any pressure with a flat bar can I put on the back of that clutch against the tunnel by the jackshaft? Not a good idea? Any other ideas that work?

I'm not a big fan of WD-40 when it comes to rusty/stuck pieces.

I 've had great success with KROIL (Orange can) and how about placing the sled on it's side and letting the penetrant soak/run in overnight?

Just my .02

 

[xcr440]

Follow up: Secondary loosened itself from the shaft after 175 miles of riding. I WD-40'd it about 5 or 6 times before the season, and today it came loose. Now to get the proper alignment, since it moves about 3/8" in and out on the shaft.

 

[dschultz]

Follow up: Secondary loosened itself from the shaft after 175 miles of riding. I WD-40'd it about 5 or 6 times before the season, and today it came loose. Now to get the proper alignment, since it moves about 3/8" in and out on the shaft.

Now that it is out make sure you clean the shaft with some sandpaper and put a good amount of grease on it. I would also take one of the spacers out between the back of the clutch and the bearing so it floats along with your primary. I know many people do this to their sleds and by doing this my dad has never blown a belt since doing this starting in the late 70's. I would also lube it the start of every year just so you never run into the problem again. We have had alot of problems with the cats secondary seizing and having to pull the entire jackshaft to remove it, but never on a poo.

 

[hothyfax]

And while you have the clutch off grease the jackshaft bearing.There should be a small hole that you need to use a needle greasing tip to get grease into it.

 

[xcr440]

I would also take one of the spacers out between the back of the clutch and the bearing so it floats along with your primary. I know many people do this to their sleds and by doing this my dad has never blown a belt since doing this starting in the late 70's.

Take out a spacer? I was thinking that was the problem with blowing the belt, that it moves on the shaft when it shouldn't. I've never owned a sled that had a secondary "float" on the jackshaft, that just doesn't seem right. I was going to align and add a washer where needed so it didn't move.

 

[xcr440]

And while you have the clutch off grease the jackshaft bearing.There should be a small hole that you need to use a needle greasing tip to get grease into it.

That was the original intent back in October, and this one has a zirk on that bearing. Done!

 

[indy_500]

Take out a spacer? I was thinking that was the problem with blowing the belt, that it moves on the shaft when it shouldn't. I've never owned a sled that had a secondary "float" on the jackshaft, that just doesn't seem right. I was going to align and add a washer where needed so it didn't move.

You want the secondary to float.

 

[xcr440]

Well, in the 10's of thousands of miles I've ridden, I've only blown one belt to my recollection, and that belt had thousands of miles on it. And NEVER have I had a secondary that was not tight on the shaft, meaning little if any float.

Now, only 175 miles into this sled, blown belt. It was a new belt. And I'm not sure how long the secondary has been loose, it was rusted tight to the shaft when I bought it. Secondary is now "floating" on the jack shaft, about 1/4" of an inch movement in and out as you grab and move the clutch. Evidence in the belly pan when I bought the sled tells me this is not the first time there has been a belt issue. In fact, the issue must have been so severe that they moved, remounted, and added a second spare belt carrier on the clutch guard.

Doesn't make sense it should be moving that much on that shaft. Guess I better look into the alignment.

 

[indy_500]

Well, in the 10's of thousands of miles I've ridden, I've only blown one belt to my recollection, and that belt had thousands of miles on it. And NEVER have I had a secondary that was not tight on the shaft, meaning little if any float.

Now, only 175 miles into this sled, blown belt. It was a new belt. And I'm not sure how long the secondary has been loose, it was rusted tight to the shaft when I bought it. Secondary is now "floating" on the jack shaft, about 1/4" of an inch movement in and out as you grab and move the clutch. Evidence in the belly pan when I bought the sled tells me this is not the first time there has been a belt issue. In fact, the issue must have been so severe that they moved, remounted, and added a second spare belt carrier on the clutch guard.

Doesn't make sense it should be moving on that shaft. Guess I better look into the alignment.

when it floats, it self aligns

 

[xcr440]

Hmmm, something isn't right. Maybe its possible the mounts are worn to the point where its allowing the motor to torque too far, causing too much movement and misalignment. Like I said, the previous owner had belt issues with the second spare belt mount on the clutch guard.

 

[doomsman]

No more than a 1/16 inch float, the secondary will cock its
self and not return when the drive opens when you let off.
Think about it the belt moves in on the primary and the
secondary opens on the back no need for float.
Try it once on a stand with a lot of float and the guard off.
DON"T STAND IN LINE WITH IT.

 

[xcr440]

I know what you are saying, I don't want that clutch to move at all. Get it aligned properly, and no need for movement.

Anyone have alignment tips, at least I can check that and verify its in the right place? I have washers if needed for shimming it one way or another.

 

[doomsman]

Try it on the jack stand. The drive opens back
up much faster than the secondary squeezes
shut and the belt is pulled crooked over the
sheave, wearing the belt.
Trust me on this

 

[dschultz]

I know what you are saying, I don't want that clutch to move at all. Get it aligned properly, and no need for movement.

Anyone have alignment tips, at least I can check that and verify its in the right place? I have washers if needed for shimming it one way or another.

Everyone has their own opinions on how they setup their sled, thats what this site is for. Its up to you to weather or not you use the information and suggestions people give. On all the sleds we work on around here, we always set the clutch to float so if your allignment is ever off, it will self align and you will not have an issue

 

[snowbuff]

My opinion is this:

Back in the day, the thought was that a floating clutch would align itself. This did not work. When you apply torque to the secondary clutch, it's not going to move. There is so much pressure pulling against the jackshaft that there is no way for the clutch to float back and forth. The only reason you even need to bolt it on is so it don't move during deseleration for proper alignment.That is why the manufacturers went to a fixed, non floating, position. Proper alignment is crutial for peek performance. Get an alignment tool and use it for center-to-center distance as well. The proper offset on that Poo is 5/8", I believe.
Again, this is my opinion, but I would not let it float.

 

[xcr440]

My opinion is this:

Back in the day, the thought was that a floating clutch would align itself. This did not work. When you apply torque to the secondary clutch, it's not going to move. There is so much pressure pulling against the jackshaft that there is no way for the clutch to float back and forth. The only reason you even need to bolt it on is so it don't move during deseleration for proper alignment.That is why the manufacturers went to a fixed, non floating, position. Proper alignment is crutial for peek performance. Get an alignment tool and use it for center-to-center distance as well. The proper offset on that Poo is 5/8", I believe.
Again, this is my opinion, but I would not let it float.

Thanks for the confirmation.