Just finished putting a new track on my 07 Switchback, and now need to put oil in the chaincase. Looked in the factory service manual as well as the owners manual and they don't give a weight or service classification of the oil like you would typically see in say your car service guidelines. All they say is to use Polaris Synthetic Chaincase Lube. I have a bottle of Mobile 1 Synthetic gear lube in the garage that is 75W-90. Wanted to know if I could use this in lieu of the mystery Polaris Oil. Any thoughts?
Polaris Chaincase Oil Question?
- Thread starter WIrider
- Start date
sargebbj1953
New member
Do not use gear lube. I would go buy a quart of chaincase oil from your Polaris dealer.
polarisrider1
New member
Just buy the Polaris Synthtetic. Get the larger bottle it is a way better deal than the premeasured bottle. measure it out yourself. I think you need between 9 to 12 oz. Dealer will tell you.
skeeter2010
Member
Well here we go again the great debate over chain case oil. This is usually get lots of hits
So here is my opinion. Use motor oil standard or synthetic 10W30 or 40 or even straight weight oil the chin case is nothing but a timing chain. The same one that goes 200,000 miles in a car I would also recommend changing it out a couple times a year. The money you save on not buying OEM oil will by you enough oil for a few change outs the important thing is to get all the little filings out to reduce wear
So here is my opinion. Use motor oil standard or synthetic 10W30 or 40 or even straight weight oil the chin case is nothing but a timing chain. The same one that goes 200,000 miles in a car I would also recommend changing it out a couple times a year. The money you save on not buying OEM oil will by you enough oil for a few change outs the important thing is to get all the little filings out to reduce wear
Motor oil is not a good idea, The detergent in it will cause foaming. Motor oil is designed to be pumped not churned. If motor oil is all you can get use a non detergent type. But the best bet is to use a good chain case oil, I like klotz, or amsoil. The manufactures stuff is always a few bucks more., but it's good too.
W
winter_time
Guest
automatic transmission fluid is what i use
bouncer
Member
When they say detergent type oil, meaning it has an additive that will encapsulate the carbon byproduct leftover in the engine from the result of combustion. This is why the oil turns black. It is holding this carbon that would otherwise end up on all the engine internal surfaces and form sludge. Any liquid will foam if agitated enough. It is not because of the detergent in the oil.
SO,, if you run motor oil, a detergent type would be an over kill for this application but would not hurt anything.
I look at it this way. At -10 degrees would I want 75w-80w gear lube in my aluminum chain case? Can you imagine the stress those parts are taking just to get the stuff moving like liquid again.
You will be fine with a motor oil but remember not to use synthetic until the sled in broke in. Otherwise the shaft seals might not seat in and leak.
SO,, if you run motor oil, a detergent type would be an over kill for this application but would not hurt anything.
I look at it this way. At -10 degrees would I want 75w-80w gear lube in my aluminum chain case? Can you imagine the stress those parts are taking just to get the stuff moving like liquid again.
You will be fine with a motor oil but remember not to use synthetic until the sled in broke in. Otherwise the shaft seals might not seat in and leak.
michaeladams
New member
oil,oil everywhere,and not to shot to drink
I'm not an expert, but I am a realist. Given how important the chaincase is, and given the high dollar amount of a failure, why would you not do exactly what the manufacturer reccomends? So you get nicked an extra $10-$20 for the manufacturer label, at least you know it is the right stuff.
booondocker
New member
Pooshaw....oil is oil. Remember that the use will be in cold temps so the trick is to use something that does not get thick when it gets cold, which is why the recommend synthetics because it doesn't jell up like dino oil can.
You are simply lubricating bearings and preventing seal failure...just think about it a bit. There is nothing in there which will self destruct, or whip up the lubricant...just a chain that is buzzing around and a couple bearings that have need for constant lubrication. Buy whatever you want, including tranny lube, but don't mix them because some don't like that. If your chain case is prone to get water in it, then change it a couple times per season. If you knew how many people out there don't bother to change it at all, you wouldn't worry about what type or vicosity...just keeping the oil without moisture is the ticket.
Otherwise, go to your lubrication bin and grab a bottle and stop worrying about it. Some people are absolutely annal about these things and it is nothing but amusing at best.
Now if you are going to put oil in Cat's diamond drive, that would be different and there could be complications (tho it wouldn't surprise me if it didn't) if'n you use something other than what is recommended.
You are simply lubricating bearings and preventing seal failure...just think about it a bit. There is nothing in there which will self destruct, or whip up the lubricant...just a chain that is buzzing around and a couple bearings that have need for constant lubrication. Buy whatever you want, including tranny lube, but don't mix them because some don't like that. If your chain case is prone to get water in it, then change it a couple times per season. If you knew how many people out there don't bother to change it at all, you wouldn't worry about what type or vicosity...just keeping the oil without moisture is the ticket.
Otherwise, go to your lubrication bin and grab a bottle and stop worrying about it. Some people are absolutely annal about these things and it is nothing but amusing at best.
Now if you are going to put oil in Cat's diamond drive, that would be different and there could be complications (tho it wouldn't surprise me if it didn't) if'n you use something other than what is recommended.
polarisrider1
New member
Why rewrite the program? How cheap do we go here. We are looking at 9-12 oz. of oil. If you have to reinvent the wheel go with a non detergent oil that is at the weight of what your sled manufacture recomends. They spend millions on researching this stuff. Why re-think something so minor? This is like burning Boat or weed wacker oil in your sled to save a dime. (rest has been self edited).
I use Full Synthetic Amsoil, and change every fall, 7500 Hard rockin Miles. 02 Polaris 700xcsp.
Geared, Clutched, jetted, V-Force 3 Reeds, Piped.
I'm just saying i ride hard, Sleds are expensive toys. Take good care of them and do good PM, Spend a buck where it is best spent. So you will get your money's worth and the most enjoyment from it. Cut corners and don't take care of it,and it will come back to bite you.
Geared, Clutched, jetted, V-Force 3 Reeds, Piped.
I'm just saying i ride hard, Sleds are expensive toys. Take good care of them and do good PM, Spend a buck where it is best spent. So you will get your money's worth and the most enjoyment from it. Cut corners and don't take care of it,and it will come back to bite you.
polarisrider1
New member
obob- that was put perfectly. I actually started to get tearey eyed. Great answer!!
My 2 cents from years in the lubrication business.
Do not use motor oil, ATF or gear oil in the chain case. They are not designed for that kind of application.
The spec's call for an extreme pressure light oil lube. Engine oil is not extreme pressure, ATF is a hydraulic fluid. Gear lube is extreme pressure but 75W-90 etc is just too thick to lube the chain, its designed for hypoid gears (ring & pinion). Using the incorrect type of lube can cause seal damage, metal pitting or chemical reaction with the metals used inside the case. The manf. of chain case oils have formulated them to take these things into consideration. The fact that some people used something else and never appeared to have an issues is no reason to do what they do.
In cold weather the 75W-90 gear lube thicken up and cause drag. Some gear lubes can get thick as molasses in cold weather,
Do not use motor oil, ATF or gear oil in the chain case. They are not designed for that kind of application.
The spec's call for an extreme pressure light oil lube. Engine oil is not extreme pressure, ATF is a hydraulic fluid. Gear lube is extreme pressure but 75W-90 etc is just too thick to lube the chain, its designed for hypoid gears (ring & pinion). Using the incorrect type of lube can cause seal damage, metal pitting or chemical reaction with the metals used inside the case. The manf. of chain case oils have formulated them to take these things into consideration. The fact that some people used something else and never appeared to have an issues is no reason to do what they do.
In cold weather the 75W-90 gear lube thicken up and cause drag. Some gear lubes can get thick as molasses in cold weather,
marty__kms
New member
Switchbackmke,
Look at what your started…lol.
My favorite is the guy who will spend $10,500.00 on a sled and then spend 3 hours researching how to save $10.00 on oil, damn accountants and engineers. (Pun intended)
Look at what your started…lol.
My favorite is the guy who will spend $10,500.00 on a sled and then spend 3 hours researching how to save $10.00 on oil, damn accountants and engineers. (Pun intended)
Use whatever weight lube you are comfortable with, but make sure it has an "EP" rating. All that horsepower you guys are cranking has to get from drivetrain to track via the chain and sprockets. True you are lubing the bearings, but that is not where the filings are coming from. You need the extreme pressure lube because of the force generated between the sprockets and chain. This is the wear area. Also remember that the more you boost horsepower and increase traction the more stress you put on the chain and sprockets.
Marty_kms,
Would have never thought.......
Really justed wanted to know if anyone knew what service classification or rating there was on the polaris chaincase lube. Wasn't about being cheap.
Just curious. But it has been fun reading.....we'll call this one dead, done, buried, fried, and finished.
Thanks guys.
Would have never thought.......
Really justed wanted to know if anyone knew what service classification or rating there was on the polaris chaincase lube. Wasn't about being cheap.
Just curious. But it has been fun reading.....we'll call this one dead, done, buried, fried, and finished.
Thanks guys.
I have a 2001 800 LE and I have thought of and researched using after market oils and lubricants. But why? Everyone has an opinion on what you should use. So, I have stayed with Polaris' lubricants with one reason why. When you buy an expensive toy such as a snowmobile why use after market oils and lubricants in it just because they are cheaper. I ride with different people at different times and I have noticed that some of these guys suit up, fire up, and zoom their gone without any warm up. Then within 3 or 4 thousand miles their motors have pucked. Myself I start my sled let it warm up ,and suit, up warm my track up and then take off. That warm up procedure and not being cheap is the reason why my 800 is still going strong at 10,000+ miles and still starts on the second pull. Dont get me wrong I have replaced the normal wear parts track, carbides, clutch, etc.
polarisrider1
New member
800le, you omly have 10,000+ miles on that sled. It is a guzzler after all. I put 8800 miles on my 01 800 xc sp in the first 2 yrs. I had the 2 yr. engine warrenty. Never warmed the sled up. Rode it like I stole it all throughout Canada in hopes of cashing in for a new motor. No such luck. When the warrenty ran out I got alittle worried, so I unloaded it on a brother-in-law Still running strong for my brother-in-law (who is a big guy) 3rd track 4th drive bearing (speedo side). same motor 24,000+ miles on it. It did drink the gas (pre power valve motor). Does your electric suspension shock still work? I had that gizmo on my 2000 700 xcsp 45th aniversary. Or did yours come with M10?