Polaris Switchback RPM Problems

ryheilig

New member
I have a 2008 Polaris 700 Switchback Dragon with 800 miles. It will not go past 7000-7200 RPM. Bottom end is perfect but once you hit about 7k RPM it just cuts out. Pulled the power valves out made sure they were clean, checked bellows and springs both ok. Any other suggestions? Anyone had this problem?
 

mngolf4

New member
Having a similar problem with my 2008 600 Switchback. It's in the shop right now - I'll post again once I found out what the problem is. I'm guessing fuel - fuel pump not pushing enough fool at peak demand or a pinched fuel line or something.
 
Had this happen already . 1 time clutch spring was broke another time one of the power valves billow (sp)had a leak/ crack in it. Hope this helps
 

ryheilig

New member
Thoroughly checked over the bellows, thoroughly cleaned power valves, spring on clutch looks/feels good as far as I can see/feel without taking the clutch off and disassembling. Fuel pressure is running 62 psi, specs say 58 so thats good. Ohmed power valve solenoid =14.5 ohms, specs say 12-15 so thats good. Put up on stand and opened it up and can see the power valves actually open up and move. Running out of things I can think of to check.

If it matters---It was running perfectly fine until the other day riding in wisconsin and one of the wires in the wiring harness going to the hood rubbed and grounded out causing the sled to kill itself and switch the display from analog to digital. While dying momentarily the check engine light would come on, display would switch over, lights would go off, then sled would come back on. All in a matter of probably 3 seconds or less. I fixed the wire that was rubbed thru and then noticed it wouldn't go over 7200 rpm.

Was kind of wondering that since the check engine light came on if the ECU remembers there was a fault code and it is limiting the rev of the snowmobile as a kind of safe mode?? If that is even possible? But it is acting exactly like there is a rev limiter on it.
 

indy_500

Well-known member
Thoroughly checked over the bellows, thoroughly cleaned power valves, spring on clutch looks/feels good as far as I can see/feel without taking the clutch off and disassembling. Fuel pressure is running 62 psi, specs say 58 so thats good. Ohmed power valve solenoid =14.5 ohms, specs say 12-15 so thats good. Put up on stand and opened it up and can see the power valves actually open up and move. Running out of things I can think of to check.

If it matters---It was running perfectly fine until the other day riding in wisconsin and one of the wires in the wiring harness going to the hood rubbed and grounded out causing the sled to kill itself and switch the display from analog to digital. While dying momentarily the check engine light would come on, display would switch over, lights would go off, then sled would come back on. All in a matter of probably 3 seconds or less. I fixed the wire that was rubbed thru and then noticed it wouldn't go over 7200 rpm.

Was kind of wondering that since the check engine light came on if the ECU remembers there was a fault code and it is limiting the rev of the snowmobile as a kind of safe mode?? If that is even possible? But it is acting exactly like there is a rev limiter on it.

Could've tricked it and put it into limp mode and won't come back out... Compression is ok right?
 

mngolf4

New member
ryheilig - curious if yours behaves like this at all running temps or does the sled have to warm up a bit to exhibit the behavior.

Got a call from the repair shop today. So far unable to replicate the problem on my sled. After discussing the behavior he thinks it could be the thermocouple/thermistor giving a false reading that the engine is running too hot which causes it to detune to protect the motor. Hope to hear more from him tomorrow.
 

ryheilig

New member
mngolf--Mine does it when its just started up and after it has been running for awhile (all engine temps). I took it to the dealer yesterday and read the codes. Fuel injector code kept coming up even after clearing them and restarting. They said it is more than likely a fuel injector that is bad....and of course the lower ones, which involve pulling the engine.
 

mngolf4

New member
Repair shop still unable to replicate so I went there and rode for about an hour myself with no luck. In my case no codes have been recorded so no real clues where to look. The mystery continues . . .
 

mngolf4

New member
Got mine to repeat this behavior today 2 to 3 times - guy at the repair shop found a bulletin regarding chaffed wires under the airbox - he plans to check that and if nothing there put a fuel pressure gauge on it. I'm also seeing my speedometer "bounce" (reading jumps all over the place) so that's why he wants to check for a wiring problem first.
 

ryheilig

New member
Just took it up to M&M in Rushford for a second opinion. They say its either the stator or the ECU. They are throwing a new stator in it and if that doesn't fix it then it's an ECU. Oh Joy. Gotta pay if ya wanna play.
 

snowlover2

New member
Too bad you're having issues. I put 5k trouble free miles on my '08 DSB 700 before I got the '11 800 Rush. I can't say enough good things about the 700 SB and what a great all around trail sled it is! I made no engine modifications. Stock it would top out at 95mph. So I had my dealer raise the gear ratio in the chain case slightly and afterwards it hit 107 on the digital speedo across Lake Gogebic! And I never missed any bottom end! Good luck with yours!
 

Polarice

New member
Got mine to repeat this behavior today 2 to 3 times - guy at the repair shop found a bulletin regarding chaffed wires under the airbox - he plans to check that and if nothing there put a fuel pressure gauge on it. I'm also seeing my speedometer "bounce" (reading jumps all over the place) so that's why he wants to check for a wiring problem first.

The speedo is the proxy sensor. Had the same issue on my '10 IQ.
 

mngolf4

New member
Update on mine - repair shop pulled the air box today to confirm a bulletin related to chaffing of wires - found wiring to be fine but the mag side throttle body boot was toast - looked fine outwardly but upon closer examination it was deteriorated. He now believes that to be the culprit.
 

bpsledder

Member
Common problem with 2008s and 2009s (maybe even 2010s). My wife's 2009 600 went at 2200 miles and out of warranty. Thanks to my dealer, they were able to get Polaris to "goodwill warranty" voltage regulator, ecu and labor.
 
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